Excess heating

Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Using my laser temperature next to the temperature gauge does indicate a big difference in temperature.
I never had lock up but came close and that was before my rebuild so all is running fine now beyond the increase in temperature. Pulled the radiator and will replace this week. May also back flush the system if necessary. When it did get that hot, it was shut down and air cooled.
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Wednesday, July 22nd, 2020 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Sounds like a plan. Let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, July 22nd, 2020 AT 10:04 AM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Well we changed out the radiator, no difference. We kept monitoring the temperature at the temperature sensor location and for 30 minutes of run time, it got to 143 F. Also noted that the fan works by cycling. My only concern is that the temperature gauge pins at max (220 F). I did put in a new temp sensor. Do you think maybe its the wrong type?

Other than that issue, I will be test driving it (with the phone number of a tow truck at hand- LOL)
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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I would pop the temperature sensor out and stick a gauge in there and see what the temperature actually is. 143 wouldn't be hot enough to cause problems. Testing it may show if it's the gauge or sender. It sounds like the wrong sender.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 2:28 PM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Steve I can run just about 180 to 200 F when I only run with the A/C on. This keeping the fan on. When off it goes red line. I did see the fan cycle at one time a few days ago, but not on a regular basis, this being red line temperature. Since I changed out the relay, new therm, etc. Any new ideas I can try?

Is it possible to get a therm switch that can turn on the fan cycle earlier?
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:51 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Normally the fans won't turn on until about 210-218 degrees. With everything else it sounds like the ECM isn't responding to the coolant temperature sensor to turn on the fans. That points to the ECM as the failure point as the rest of the system is working.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Thanks Steve. I already planned to order one. Got your confirmation that it maybe the solution.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The only item really left that could cause it. Normally on those if the wiring was broken it would tun the fans on and if the sensor is unplugged it would do the same. In this case it sounds like an internal ECM fault, either a broken trace or some 5 cent part failed on the board.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Following your comment on unplugging the sensor, in my case it does nothing to unplug.

Like I said earlier, I did see the fan kick in, but in this case the temp gauge was red lined. It should of been cycling on and off certainly I would think below 220F.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Unless the gauge is wrong. I would put a mechanical temperature gauge on it before swapping the ECM out just to see if the problem is the gauge or in the dash. If the mechanical says the temp is at 210 or so and the fans come on then it isn't the ECM but a bad gauge or gauge driver.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Well, it did not come on when I repeat vehicle testing. It was only once early on and like I said the temperature was red lined when it finally came on briefly. Further testing did not turn on the fan.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Think location of ECM is under dash on passenger side if I can rememeber. Is there some reference to this somewhere?
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Yes it's behind the glove box area. See the images below. You or the mechanic will need to swap the PROM and if installed the Cal-Pak chips over to the replacement unit.

This is from the service info on that car -
Some control module's may have problems due to cracked solder joints on the circuit board. These internal control module problems can cause the following symptoms

Failure to start or vehicle is stalling.
The "CHECK ENGINE" "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" or "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR" light will flash or light up, but no trouble codes will be present.
Vehicle instrument panel displays may be inoperative.
The control module may or may not communicate with the scanner.
Other intermittent driveability problems.

Incorrect PROM or MEMCAL removal and replacement can create solder joint problems or aggravate an existing condition. See PROM or MEMCAL INSTALLATION for proper procedures.

If a solder joint problem results in a "hard" failure, normal test procedures will usually pinpoint a faulty control module. Many symptoms caused by poor solder joints in the control module result in intermittent problems, but they may be hard to duplicate during troubleshooting. Control module's with solder joint problems are sensitive to heat and vibration.

When replacing a production ECM with a service ECM, transfer the broadcast code and production number from the production unit to the service unit. Also, during replacement, the PROM must be removed from the ECM being replaced and transferred to the new unit. Some ECM's are equipped with another chip called a Cal-Pak. If the ECM if equipped with a Cal-Pak chip, it will be located next to the PROM and must be transferred along with the PROM.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Then disconnect two computer electrical connectors.
3. Remove computer mounting hardware.
4. Remove computer from passenger compartment.
5. Reverse procedure to install.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM
Tiny
ARNOLDLAUSEVICH
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Did this before but many years ago. In fact on this car if mind serves me correct.
Thanks Steve.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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You are welcome.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 6:41 PM

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