Engine vacuum lines?

Tiny
PHILLIP AN ROBIN HOLDER
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 214,000 MILES
My mistake was trusting the repair shop in town everyone suggested but the mechanic had retired and hired new employees. I had to have my late husband’s truck towed home because they couldn’t fix the issue. It already set at the shop a year with them working on it. Charged me $2,800.
This is when I decided to discover the internet and repair it myself at age 61.

Originally took it to the garage because it had a very strong fuel odor just sitting in the driveway. It was also running very rough and had a large amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. After it was towed home, it would not even start. I opened the hood, and the breather was not there, plus the wiring to the fuel injectors was completely fried, so this is where I started my learning curve.

I rebuilt the throttle body (fuel pressure regulator was really bad) purchased two new fuel injectors and repaired the fried wiring. Still would not start.

New battery so I could run codes. OBD1 codes 34 & 54
Verified fuel pump was not working.

Cut down the swing set in the backyard to build a hoist over the bed of the truck, remove the bed and trailer hitch. And learning none of this is fun on your own. I put in a new fuel pump, sending unit, repaired the fuel neck static ground wire, new gas tank, fuel filter, fuel pump relay.

Checked all fuses inside and outside for a short could not find any. Checked all ground wires and all are secure. Checked for spark.

Truck will now start but not crank with no white smoke and fuel smell is gone.
Now codes 12 and 54

Replaced oil pump sensor pressure switch, ICM, MAP sensor, IACV, distributor cap and rotor (rusted), most vacuum hoses (the repair garage had cut into numerous pieces for some reason).


Fixed code 54 but now codes 12 & 35,

Ordered TPS, PCV and EGR sol.

After reading some post, I am concerned that maybe they have switched the PCV and EGR. Which actually whatever part goes in the passenger side valve cover was just hanging down beside to plug wires that were not installed (plugs 2 and 4). The wires would not even reach. I had to take them out of the clamps and install them myself. I can’t believe what a bad job this shop did.

I have worked so hard trying to get this truck running. I depend on cutting my own firewood for my winter heat and I am so behind from not having a truck. This is my only transportation and I have not left the house since last December, yes 2021. I have no one in the state (NW Ga) to help me so I’m doing everything on my own. I’m just really confused on the diagrams I see that have the PCV valve and the EGR on opposite sides from where mine are. Please help me get this truck running.

Now the truck will run in park, and it starts up strong and smooth. But once I put it in drive and press the gas pedal it acts like it’s jerking and quits. The only way it moves in my yard is because it idles at 1,000 RPMs in park and drive and creeps along or gravity pulls it down the driveway but when I push the gas pedal it quits.

Thank you in advance for your time, Robin
Thursday, August 18th, 2022 AT 9:02 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hi Robin,

Thanks for the images, good job on the swing set for a hoist, I like that. Can you upload a short video of the engine running and what happens when you give it throttle? Also, when you did the pump did you use an AC Delco unit? The 35 code is for the idle air control valve so maybe the wires are not correct, or the IAC motor is bad. here are the engine wiring diagrams so you can see if the wiring is correct. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens. I have also included the vacuum line diagrams. This guide may help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Let me know please.
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Thursday, August 18th, 2022 AT 12:38 PM

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