Engine rebuild

Tiny
TWEBB101
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • 7.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 5 MILES
I'm currently rebuilding my 454 in my 1984 Chevrolet C20, and have been watching Ryan's video series on the process. I'd like to keep the build as stock as possible, including the oil/transmissions coolers, HEI ignition, etc. I realize this will give me a few extra hoses, cables, wires, etc. When Ryan got his engine running, his engine and compartment were much "cleaner" than mine ever was. I'm curious if there are any of the hoses and wires that can be safely removed without negatively affecting anything?
Monday, December 28th, 2020 AT 6:25 PM

55 Replies

Tiny
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Good morning,

Can you upload some pictures of your truck under the hood? There are some you can eliminate but not that many.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 1:42 AM
Tiny
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Sure thing! Here you go.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
RYAN L
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Hi Twebb101!

I'm Ryan, from the YouTube series. First off, thank you so much for watching!

Secondly to answer your question. Ours is a custom build so it has a few things missing that something from factory you might want. On your rig the two things I could see cutting if you really want a cleaner look is getting a different carburetor with mechanical secondaries instead of vacuum. The other thing if you really do not use it is to take out the air conditioning. I know that last one is something most people would not want to lose.

Thank you again for watching and using 2CarPros!

-Ryan
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
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Thanks Ryan! Can you explain what the mechanical secondary's vs vacuum is? I don't understand what that means.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
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Mechanical is when linkage operates the secondary's.

The vacuum is when they are operated by the load.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:19 AM
Tiny
RYAN L
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Not a problem! So the secondaires on a 4 barrel carburetor add fuel when in a heavy throttle situation. There are two ways to achieve that. Either you rely on vacuum which requires a vacuum line from the intake manifold. Or you have a physical mechanical connection from the throttle actuation. You would need a different carburetor and to plug the vacuum line from the intake manifold.

I think the best and cheapest route for you to go is give the engine a nice wash, take off and paint the valve covers, then use zip ties to bunch everything together neatly. You would be absolutely shocked what a little elbow grease will do to the look of your engine bay.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
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Awesome, thank you! I'm planning on following your series to rebuild the engine, and when putting it back in the truck, I'm going to rewire it and tidy everything up as you suggested. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go, but as always, top notch stuff from you and the 2CarPros team. Keep it up!
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 11:38 AM
Tiny
RYAN L
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No problem! Awesome to read that! I made the series for that exact reason, that anyone could rebuild a big block in their garage.

Thanks so much for watching! We will be here for any of your questions totally free!
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
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A follow up to this. The truck has sat without running for about 8 years or so; before that, to my knowledge, everything worked great mechanically. What are the chances that I will need to replace the power brake booster, master cylinder, and other A/C/heater components in the engine bay?
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
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Tiny
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Another follow up: exhaust manifolds. Attached are the two I removed from my engine. Are they good to just clean up and reuse? Should I get new ones? Also, can you tell me what the probes are that are inside of them? Do I need those? What would they connect to?
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Sunday, February 7th, 2021 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
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That is the tubes for the air injection system for emissions. If you are putting it back to stock, you can reuse them.

Otherwise, you can remove them and use plugs to insert in the manifold.

Roy
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+1
Monday, February 8th, 2021 AT 1:50 AM
Tiny
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Two more follow ups:

1. Do you have any good references or information on ignition timing? It’s very confusing to me, and I’m not sure what to do for my rebuild?

2. Any suggestions for chrome/metallic paint for my belt pulleys?
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Sunday, March 14th, 2021 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
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The timing will depend on the camshaft you choose. The stock timing is 10 BTDC.

No to the paint. That will burn off very quickly from the heat build up. I would get the pulleys that are all chrome if that is what you want to use.

Roy
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Sunday, March 14th, 2021 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
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Regarding the oil pan: if the stock capacity of the engine is 7 quarts with filter, do I need a 7 quart oil pan?
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Monday, April 26th, 2021 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
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Yes. In fact. I would suggest a 10 quart oil pan.

Roy
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Monday, April 26th, 2021 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
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Earlier, I asked about the exhaust manifolds. The intake and water pump look similar to those. Should I have them sandblasted before I reuse them? Should I paint them at all, or just leave them bare metal?
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Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
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I did answer about the manifolds. I would not paint them as the paint will burn off from the heat.

I would have the other parts sandblasted before reuse. Do not paint them but if you do, use high-temperature paint to try to keep them from peeling off.

Roy
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Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I remember, I was just recalling that conversation. Thank you for the input.
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Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
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Anytime.

Roy
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Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 6:36 PM

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