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Engine quit while running

Tiny
DANINKENT
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD RANGER
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 180,000 MILES
Engine cranks but will not start. Has spark and fuel pressure to fuel rail but no power to the injector harness. Checked fuses and relays and all seems to be working. And no pulse to injector harness. Tried a noid light to test and no light. Ran a test on both pins of injector harness and no power. Good ground on both but no power from ignition when key is turned on. Sprayed some starting fluid in intake and engine starts momentarily.
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Tuesday, February 27th, 2018 AT 12:19 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Can you run a diagnostic scan? I would like to know what if any codes are set. Start here and let me know what you find. If you have many codes set, note down all the codes and clear them, then do a re start and see if any new or cleared codes are present.
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Tuesday, February 27th, 2018 AT 2:37 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Here is a guide on retrieving those codes, if they exist: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval
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Tuesday, February 27th, 2018 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
DANINKENT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Sorry for the late response. Still no luck with starting my truck. Very frustrating.

I ran a test scan and got the following codes: 116, 114, 334, 10, and 327. Looks like nothing to do with fuel. I replaced the crankshaft sensor, timing belt and ECU. Checked all the fuses and all seem to be good. Still won't start. I pulled one injector and turned key on and lots of fuel squirting. Tach needle jumps a little everytime I crank the engine. Good spark to the plugs as well. I'm a little confused when I checked the fuel injector harness in that I turn the key on and I get a ground test (green) on my tester on both wires. I keep thinking that there should be a +10 = +12volts on the red wire but only get a good ground (green light) when key is turned to the on position. Not sure what to do anymore. Stranded in Kent.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Dan
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Sunday, March 4th, 2018 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,671 POSTS
Hello,

Have you checked the engine for compression?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Sometimes is good to start from the beginning and go over things one at a time.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, March 7th, 2018 AT 2:20 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Umm none of those codes exist. Code numbers for an OBD1 Ford should be between 11 and 99. Please retry scanning for them. If you get the same odd codes, then maybe we should suspect that the PCM/ECM has failed. So give it another go.
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Wednesday, March 7th, 2018 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
DANINKENT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Well,
I'm confused as well. I looked in the manual for the OBDI 1 scanner and the codes I provided you with are in the manual. Most of them refer to the EGR valve having low voltage but nothing else. I replaced the PCM already and nothing changed. The main problem here is that there's no injector pulse to the harness.I replaced the ECC relay, Crankshaft sensor, timing belt, fuel filter and I will be replacing the coil packs tomorrow. The engine has spark and fuel coming to the rail. I just can't figure out where the injector harness gets the power from. I checked for broken wires but can't find anything visually wrong. Somebody suggested to replace the TPS sensor and check some switch under the glove compartment (innurtia switch) to make sure it's not shut off.

Regards,
Dan in kent.
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Wednesday, March 7th, 2018 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
OK I did some digging and found that our information concerning the codes for the Ranger is incomplete. Sorry, but the codes you gave do exist, except the code 10 (as far as I can tell at least). I couldn't find anything lower than a code 11 (System ok).

Honestly, I'm pretty stumped here. Only thing I can say is start manually checking the crankshaft position sensor and the cam position sensor (if it has one). The signals from these sensors can be what the PCM uses to create injector pulses. No signal = no injector pulse. You'd pull those sensors and check for continuity between the terminals in the sensors (looking for a short circuit) and do the same for the wire harness (checking for both continuity and making sure that ground and power wires are ok).

I know, it sounds like guesswork. Probably because it is.
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Thursday, March 8th, 2018 AT 3:41 AM
Tiny
DANINKENT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
OK guys, thanks for all your help. I finally got this thing fixed and out of the "COMA"
After spending approx. $300 worth of parts; ECM, crank sensor, timing belt, coil packs, wires, spark plugs, TPS, EEC relay and lots of elbow grease, I decided to check every wire in the wiring harness. So it turned out to be a connecter behind the engine that connects power to the injector harness from the PCM and EEC relay. The 5 pin connecter was so corroded and also had a couple of missing pins and one being the +12 volt feed, I have no idea how this thing was even running previously. One thing I have to say though is, it's running better than ever. Oh well, it should be good for another 100K. LOL thanks again!

The silver bullet lives again!
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2018 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Sounds good, thank you for using 2carpros, re post any time with your concerns and tell your friends about our service, we are happy to help out.
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 AT 2:02 AM

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