Engine fuse blew when driving.

There is no way to diagnose this over a computer.

A simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a 12 volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it's not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel. Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out.

For intermittent problems like yours the bulb may be dim already. Watch what takes place when it gets bright. That is when the short is occurring. It could be due to the rocking of the engine when you shift between reverse and drive. It could be due to the body flexing when you drive over bumps in the road. The bulb limits current to a safe value when the short occurs, in this case about one amp. If the engine won't start with a brake light in the circuit, try a headlight bulb. The low beam filament will limit current to five amps, and the high beam filament will allow about six amps to flow.

In particular, look at the wiring harnesses to the oxygen sensors to see if one fell down onto hot exhaust parts. A wire with melted insulation can ground out intermittently and cause a short.

There is no fuse for the fuel filter. If you meant the fuel pump, that does get power through the automatic shutdown relay which also powers the ignition coils, injectors, and oxygen sensor heaters. It is the O2 sensor heater wires that cause this problem most often from the wiring harness falling down onto hot exhaust parts.

This same circuit also sends current back to the Engine Computer so it can verify that relay turned on when it was commanded to. The cruise control is run entirely through the Engine Computer too, so while the light you're seeing might be a dandy clue, It is highly unlikely it is the cause of the problem.