Engine shuts off after 15.5 seconds

P.S. On the left side of the glov box there is a screw with a string connected. Do I need to remove that screw and string assembly?

I have some new test results, and I am thinking it may change your thoughts about a bad ECM. I started the car 5 times and each time it turned off at 15.5 seconds. The sixth time I decided to try something different, that is, I revved the engine to 2500 RPM before 15.5 seconds, the engine kept running. I held it at 2500 for 2 minutes, at one minute the check engine light began flashing. Normal engine temp was achieved around 8 minutes and I let it back to idle, where it ran at about 950 RPM. I then revved it to 3800-4K RPM at 11 minutes, then let it come back to idle where it ran at about 700 RPM. I turned off with the key at 13 minutes. Ran the codes and got: P1135, P 1155, P0302, P0305 and P0301. Started engine again, cleared codes while engine was running, then a minute later engine light flashed again and got these codes and read them with engine running: P0300, P0301, P0305 and P0402 (EGR flow excessive.) Ran engine until 2.5 minutes and shut engine off with key. Does this give any better insight? New thoughts?

For the thirteen minutes the engine ran above, the O2s were connected, (as was everything.) Should I try to repeat all that with them both disconnected?

I Disconnected O2s, engine light flashed at 8 seconds, got past the 15.5 second mark, idled for 2 min. At 1100 RPM, then revved to 2000 RPM for one min. Then to 2600 for one min. Then to 2800 for one minute. Cleared codes with engine running, got 1135, 1455, 0302, 0301, 03015, 0402, EGR excessive flow detected, and 1410. Pretty much same results with O2s dangling. I do think there are misfires as at idle there is a slight shake to the engine. But at least it is able to run past the 15.5 second mark. Should I still try the replacement ECM? Is the EGR bad or can it be cleaned? What exactly is an excessive EGR flow?

Okay, disconnected EGR, started right up, ran past the fifteen second mark. Around two minutes the engine light began flashing. Warmed it up to operating temp. Kept RPM's at 2,500 for a few minutes. Idled at 800, sounds like a miss from tailpipe at idle, can't tell so much at the higher RPM. Codes were: 0300,0301,0305, 1130, and 1410. Kept running total of nine minutes. Turned car off with key, gave engine a rest for ten minutes, cleared codes, reconnected EGR, about two minutes engine light flashed again. Rechecked codes and got: 0300,0301, 0305, 0402 and 1140.

P.S. Just noticed a typo in the last message, the last code is 1130, not 1140.

If by okay, you mean it ran past fifteen seconds, then yes, but did appear to be slightly uneven.

When you say air/fuel sensor, are you referring to the O2s? I didn't change any as we were doing these tests. Is bank 1 the side closer to the firewall?

Update: Things went from bad to worse: The OBD reader suddenly "failed to link with vehicle" and the car stopped starting at all, cranks, but no spark. I took a break these past months. Here we are now: tested crank sensor voltage. I only got.77 volts at the ECU black/red wire (to crank sensor) and at the crank sensor socket only got.77 volts. Then,
I swapped the ECU with a used one and here are the results: only got.77 volts at the black/red wire at the crank sensor, the first time, then I couldn't repeat that rending at sensor. I also got the.77 volts at the ECU black/red wire, still not the 5 volts needed. In other words, the same readings as with the other ECU. Now what? Still fails to link to OBD reader.