Electrical wires melted no power now

No. A crank no start would not be caused by the starter or alternator. If the engine cranks over then the starter and circuit are fine. The alternator is only being used when the engine is running and is not used during starting.

It seems like you are just going through a replacing parts but I am not sure we are performing the needed tests to determine which direction we need to go.

I know you changed the plugs and crank sensor but was that because you tested the plugs during cranking and found that there is no spark? If not, we need to do that.

Also, it could be a fuel pump but we need to measure fuel pressure at the rail to determine if the pump is sending the proper amount of fuel.

If we don't do these tests then you could spend a lot of time and money replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.

Please review these guides and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

It depends on which relay this is. It is not a fuse because those do not click. The clicking noise you are hearing are the relays turning on an off. This will drain the battery plus depending on which relay, it will cause a no start.

I would suggest you start with finding that relay that is clicking and replace it. Just pulling it out will not allow the car to start because they need to be installed and functioning properly.

I suspect as you get the vehicle running you are going to find a number of things that were affected by this incident but you can't worry about that until you get it started.

Warm relays are caused by them switching on and off, hence the clicking. This is caused by bad relay, constant power (shorted wires/PDC), or a battery that is mostly drained. If you have multiple relays doing it, I doubt it is the first. If you just replaced the battery and it is still charged I don't think the last is the issue. Based on the history, I suspect you may still have wires that are shorted together.

Let me know what you find and I will help if I can. I would suggest with starting with finding which relays are clicking and then swap them or replace them with ones that are not clicking. If the new one clicks as well, then you have a wiring/PDC issue.

Okay. Please tell me which body model that you have of the options attached and I will send you what is in the service manual.

Okay. According to Alldata the diagrams I sent are correct. The battery junction box is on the rear LH side of the engine compartment. The Central Junction Box is on the LH side under the dash which seems like it matches what you are seeing on the vehicle.

It looks like an EGR tube but it is a little hard to tell from this angle. Easiest way to tell is to determine what it is going to on one end of the other. This will tell you what it is.

It is possible that it is the PCM but at this point, so much has happened, that I am not sure this will resolve the issues. It may be best to have it checked out at this point. The only reason I say that is because I can't recommend you spend a few hundred dollars on a guess at best.

If this is an EGR tube (which it looks like one) and it has a hole in it, you need to replace it even if it doesn't fix the issue because it is going to cause more issues later. We know that needs to be fixed so I would just go ahead and do it.

As for sending me a video of it trying to start, you surely can and I will listen to it but more than likely that will not help you get it fixed.

Based on what has happened I think it needs some serious attention and I hate to see you guess at it and waste money. I suspect you have some major wiring issues and possible module issues. The fact that it does not start and your relays get hot, that points to a shorted wire issue.

You need to go through the tests that I laid out previously and test the wiring for shorts to ground or have someone check this out that is familiar with that type of diagnosis.

EGR tube should be fine but the PCM is vehicle specific. It appears you can use one out of the same build vehicle but if it were me I never use salvage yard electronics.

I assume you meant he used your volt meter to test for power. If you have no power, then it could be the module or the wires are burned and not capable of carrying the current due to being damaged.

This is the point I have been trying to make. Unless they ohm out these wires to see what the resistance is then you are not sure if they are even capable of carrying the current. This guide talks about this. The last portion of it illustrates how to ohm out a wire.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I just hate to see you put a PCM in it and that was not the issue. It very well could be but until you confirm wiring is okay, you are risking wasting money.