The most common mistake is expecting to find 12 volts at the fuel pump when just turning on the ignition switch. The first thing to do is try to listen for the hum of the pump for just one second when you turn on the ignition switch. Sometimes that is hard to do with the chime making noise.
The next thing is to check for spark while a helper cranks the engine. Defective fuel pump circuits cause the crank/no-start problem only about five percent of the time. A loss of fuel pump and spark causes closer to 95 percent of these failures, but most people get stuck on the first thing they find missing and forget to look for other things that are dead.
If you have no spark, this conversation will need to go in a different direction. If you never hear the hum of the fuel pump, either during cranking or for that first one second after turning on the ignition switch, look first for fuse number 10, a 15-amp, in the under-hood fuse box, then fuse number 8, a 7.5-amp fuse in the inside fuse box on the left end of the dash. That inside fuse box is also where you'll find two fuel pump relays. Both must turn on for the pump to run. Relay number 1 turns on when the ignition switch is turned on. Relay number 2 is turned on by the Engine Computer for that first one second, then again during engine rotation, (cranking or running).
If you get 12 volts to the fuel pump for one second, but not again during cranking, the common suspects become the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. It is their signals that tell the Engine Computer when the engine is rotating and it is time to turn on that second fuel pump relay. With the signal missing from one of those sensors, you will not have spark either because the computer does not know when to fire the ignition coils.
Before you randomly replace a sensor, read and record any diagnostic fault codes. Normally when a part is referenced in a fault code, it is actually the cause of that code only about half of the time. First we have to rule out wiring and connector terminal problems. In the case of these sensors, they do have a fairly high failure rate, but be aware it can be difficult for a fault code related to them to set, so just because there is no fault code, that does not prove the sensors are good.
Please describe the symptom you are trying to solve if we need to go further, and any related history leading up to the problem.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 12:27 PM
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