Transmission Shifting Problems?

Hi you only have two options for this prob. first input and output sensors these are about 20.00 each from the dealer. second trans computer between 150 and 200 these are all easy to change.

This guide should help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back.

The "Battery" light is on, and you kept on driving? What outcome are you expecting? The charging system is not keeping the battery charged while you're driving, so at most, you might be able to drive up to an hour if you don't turn on the head lights or heater fan. With all the computers involved with the electronic fuel injection and electric fuel pump, a half hour is more realistic. Computers are very intolerant of low or unstable voltage, so all the other symptoms can be expected when the charging system isn't working. Don't go looking for speed sensors and relays when you have a problem staring you in the face. At the mileage you listed, worn brushes inside the alternator could cause this problem, but they are almost always intermittent for weeks or months before they fail completely. When they make intermittent contact and start working for a while, the "Battery" light should turn off while you're driving, without having to turn the ignition switch off and restart the engine.

The problem if this is indeed intermittent is a bad connection in the wiring can cause the same symptoms. The way to start the diagnosis, whether this is intermittent or not, is to measure the voltages on the two smaller wires on the back of the alternator. These voltages must be taken with the engine running, and if the problem is intermittent, the voltages must be taken while the problem is occurring. If you take the readings while the problem is not occurring, you'll see what "normal" is, and you can compare what's different when the problem is acting up.

You should find 0 volts on the black wire. If you find any voltage other than 0 volts, that wire has a break in it. The dark green wire will typically have between about 4 to 11 volts, but it is a pulsing digital signal voltage. If that confuses your voltmeter and makes it jump around, you might get a better indication with a test light. If you pursue these tests yourself, let me know what you find, then we can figure out where to go next.

The transmission is controlled by a computer, so when system voltage goes low, it shuts down, then the transmission goes into "limp" mode, which is second gear. That is to allow you to drive slowly to a repair shop without needing a tow truck.

Sorry that I didn't reply sooner and save you that expense. Darn the bad luck.

Chrysler has always had a really nice charging system, but around 2002 they switched how those two small wires work. One used to have 12-plus volts, and the other still had the normal 4 - 11 volts. The 12-volt wire has 0 volts on it now, so it makes the diagnosis just a little more involved. By the way, here's a link to an article on how to use a digital voltmeter, if you need it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

They show this using an "auto-ranging" meter which many of us don't have. If you have one that lets you select the range yourself, I can explain how to use if you need me to.

The most common failure for Chrysler alternators is worn internal brushes. As I mentioned earlier, those almost always make intermittent contact at first and work part of the time. If you find the proper 0 volts and 12-plus volts on the two wires, the next step is to check the continuity between those two wires. That is the extra step we have to do now. If you need help with using the ohm meter part of your digital meter, I can help with that too.

There's one clinker to be aware of with this test. You don't have to disconnect the wires. If you find that you have continuity between the two terminals, the brushes are okay, at least right now. About 80 percent of the time you are going to find an open circuit, (no connection), with good brushes. That is because it is real common for tiny chips of carbon powder to break off and get stuck between a brush and the slip ring it rides on. On the test bench, we just rotate the pulley a little and the continuity will come right back, as it does when running the engine. On the car, you can tug on the belt just enough to irritate the pulley a little. That's usually enough to make the continuity come back, if the brushes are good. At the mileage you listed, it's too early to expect worn brushes unless you drive a lot in dusty conditions.

I can explain how to use the ohm meter too if you need me to. If you do find the brushes to be the problem, I can describe how to replace them, although most people just replace the entire alternator. The brush assembly costs about $10.00. I replaced it on my '94 Grand Voyager a couple of years ago. On those, I can do it without removing the alternator from the engine. I think you would have to take yours off, then the job is not real complicated.

You might find a replacement brush assembly at an auto parts store or the dealer's parts department, but first look for a starter / generator rebuilding company in your area. All larger cities have at least one. Most mechanics can tell you where they are, otherwise, ask at a truck repair shop or a heavy equipment shop. The people there will know the name of the shop they use. We even have a large farm and home store that has this part in their car parts section.

It shouldn't be downshifting until you're going pretty slow. If you feel it as soon as you tap the brake pedal, you're feeling the lockup torque converter unlock. It will relock about two seconds after releasing the brake if you're above around 43 mph.

The converter will also unlock when you fully release the gas pedal. That locking and unlocking feels just like a shift. An annoying shudder each time the converter locks up is caused by using the wrong transmission fluid. Chryslers use ATF-3. The wrong fluid can affect shift quality too but it won't affect shift points, meaning vehicle speed and load.

Check the wiring for the output sensor that is the screw on one on the right side of the front transmission. I have seen many issues there.

Hey Della,

It sounds like you may have a PRNDL switch that is out, but recheck the fuses, here are some wiring diagrams to help you get started.

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

Thanks for getting back to us. This will help others, let us know if that fixes it please.

Best, Ken

Hi DELLA,

Great news! Glad you could get it fixed please use 2CarPros. Com anytime we are here to help

Best, Ken