Ignition Coil?

Tiny
LISSALEE26
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE RAM
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
My truck started giving me trouble about 6 months ago. About once a week it would not start. The engine would spin but never turn over. This would happen 3 or 4 times, then it would start and immediately die (pressing the accelorator made no difference). It would do this 3 or 4 times then when I would turn the key all the dash lights came on but nothing would happen. No clicking or anything. I would wait about 5 minutes and then the truck would start and work fine for a few days and then it would repeat the process in the same order. The problem has progressively gotten worse and will not start at all now. But it has always done the same thing in the same sequence each time. I have asked many people for their input and a lot of them have mentioned the ignition coil. I am having the truck towed to a shop tomorrow, but being a single mom on a very thin budget I am terrified. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Monday, October 4th, 2010 AT 8:58 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Is the starter working now?
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Wednesday, October 6th, 2010 AT 12:40 PM
Tiny
LISSALEE26
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I don't know.
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Thursday, October 7th, 2010 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
If you turn the key to the start position, does the starter turn the engine?
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Thursday, October 7th, 2010 AT 9:25 PM
Tiny
FRUSTRATED JAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 DODGE RAM
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
Did a swap on a 98 dodge 5.2 to another 5.2. But the the harness had missing plugs on the new swap so I cut the the old ones off the harness which I should have just a complete one. So I went to a junk yard picked up one off same year but it had a 5.9 in it does that matter if it's different type. STILL No FIRE SO If YOU RUN A Hot we ire from the positive side of the battery it will fire but it don't unless you have the hot wire on the hot side of the coil. Any help
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
What year are the engines and you NEVER should cut a harness. One may be OBD1 and the other OBD2 try resetting security system ifno manual look online how todo it.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARC BOESLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE RAM
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
Pulled out transmission and put back in, now wont start. No power going to engine fuse in console. Always started right up
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
It sounds like you left a ground wire off or the ASD relay is not working. Here is a guide to check the relay and the engine wiring diagrams below so you can see how the system works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARC BOESLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No voltage to the coil, injectors, or small wire in the back of alternator. What do I do next
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Was the voltage there for the first second after turning on the ignition switch? If it was, suspect the crankshaft position sensor. It should have been removed before the transmission was pulled out, and it requires a paper spacer to set the critical air gap when it's reinstalled.

If there is no voltage for that first second, there's an open fuse feeding the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARC BOESLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No power the first second but have power in two slots going to the ASD relay. Replaced ASD relay and still no power to the coil, injectors, and small wire to back of alternator.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARC BOESLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Pulled off power distribution box under hood, using a test light I found I had no power leaving the ASD relay then using a test light I touched the blue yellow wire going to the power train control module, the ASD relay clicked. Using a multimeter, I found I had power coming out now. As soon as I took off test light, ASD clicked and lost power again. Could this be a bad ground or is the power train control module bad.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Slow down; you're getting wrapped around the axle with misleading tests. Your test light grounded the coil of the ASD relay causing it to turn on. That's the job of the Engine Computer. Rather than tearing the Power Distribution Center which can be a pain to put back together, just measure that voltage at the coil or any injector, dark green / orange wire. That's the voltage that comes from the ASD relay when it turns on.

That relay turns on two different times. The first time is that one second when the ignition switch is turned on. It's very easy to miss it with a digital voltmeter because they often don't respond fast enough. A test light does a better job. Since you found voltage feeding the ASD relay contact and the coil, we know that part is okay. If you still don't find that voltage turning on for the first second, we have to determine if the relay is not being turned on by the computer or if the voltage isn't getting to the coil and injectors.

Use the test light to double-check that voltage at the coil. If it's not there for the first second, hold your finger on the ASD relay to feel if it clicks when a helper turns on the ignition switch. If it doesn't click, I suppose we could have a bad computer but that would really be rare. If it clicks but there is no voltage to the coil or injectors, look for a break in that dark green / orange wire.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOLPHY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1996 DODGE RAM
We have a 96 dodge ram 1500, V6 Magnum 3.9
150,000 km. We have diagnostic code of 355 which means ignition coil E primary or secondary malfunction. What does this mean and how can we fix it?
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
If you have a tool capable of measuring 25,000 volts safley try checking the coil wire out put, if not it's either the coil, or the wiring to it, or the PCM. Coil is easist and cheapest stating point here, replace and see what happens.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOLPHY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks soooooo much for the quick reply. We will give it a try and get back to you later. Thanks again
Really appreciate it.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOLPHY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
We tried new ignition coil. That's not the problem. Still runs rough and no power, maybe even little worse now.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOLPHY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Now we have error codes showing of PO124 and PO343
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOTHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 DODGE RAM
  • 118,500 MILES
I have put a new coil /cap/rotor /crank and cam sensor and key. Switch and computer
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check for codes first. Also check if htis has a ballast resistor on it that may be bad. Especially if it wants to fire on start but quits when you let off key. Check fuel pressure.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOTHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I put a new fuel pump on it to
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2020 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)

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