Shakes or vibrates

I am feeling a vibration through my gas pedal starting at 70 mph. I am concerned that its something major and am wanting to get this solved as fast as I can because I drive along way to work everyday on the highway. Any solution will be appreciated. Thanks for your time and advice.

This is a Dodge V10 2500 extended cab long bed. I have the correct tires and all. The truck has a vibration around 70 mph where it is rather noticeable, At times it goes away but always returns. I have had the tires balanced but the vibration remains. I have check the tires for slipped belts and they are all straight and feel smooth without bumps or dips. In the past I have had tires on other cars that slipped the belts so I think I know what to look for and they shook all the time. One thing could be doing it is when braking the truck pulls to the right a bit so I have felt the wheels for heat to see if I have a brake pad dragging. On unusual heat from either wheel. So I don't know what is causing the pulling to the right unless the left caliper is hanging and not letting as much pressure to the pad as the right. I intend to rebuild the calipers anyway and the pads are in good shape.

The shocks have never been replaced but I have watched the tire while going down the HWY and there don't seem to be a bounce in them. But It is lite enough vibration I am not sure I could see it. One other thing I have done is jack up the rear end and with one tire on the axle ran the the truck up to 70 mph and there was no vibration, done this with each wheel and tire, but the contact to the ground was solid do to the jack stands under the rear axle.

I will take a look at those Ujoints today and replace as needed. I have check them before by putting the truck in forward and then reverse to hear for a clunk sound, haven't notice that sound yet.

If the ujoints don't have ware on surface where the needle bearing ride should the ujoint be replaced? I have had ujoints that had ware pattern on the shaft under the cups and replace them, checked them a year or so later and had the same ware pattern (not on this truck). Should I pack the new ujoints with hi-pressure grease. Before I only used the regular grease to grease them if they had a fitting to grease with or didn't grease them because they come new with grease on the needle bearing. I have been told that is junk grease, is that true?

I can't believe so little ware would cause that much vibration. Two ujoints showed sighs of ware on one post each while the third was in good shape but replaced it anyway. Those were the hardest ujoints I had ever replaced. Vibration mostly gone. The center support bearing had no slop in it so I didn't replace it. I had replaced the belt at 50k but have not replaced the tensioner. Tomorrow I get my transmission fluid thermostat bypass. Will be installing 2 more coolers because when my total weight is over 14K towing my travel trail in slow and steep long hills the tranny gets rather warm by the fluid temperature gauge I installed. It top out at 260 degrees on one hill. Out on the open road there is no problem of it getting hot right around 160 degrees or less with the torque converter locked, plenty of air flow through the stock tranny cooler. On hills at HWY speed with the torque converter unlocked the temp will move up to 200-220 degrees. This truck is equipped with a tow package but just doesn't have the cooling needed for the tranny. I now see how others burn up their transmission by pushing too hard. I have plenty of engine but the build up of heat in the transmission is a limiting factor of how much power to apply. I have been changing the fluid and filter every 25K and adjusting the bands. After installing the cools got to figure out what causing the truck to pull to the right while braking.

Hello, first let me start with a brief explanation of what I have and have done.

I own a 1996 dodge ram 3500 1 ton dually 4x4. I just recently installed a 7 inch lift kit then 22 inch 10 bolt rims with 37 inch mud/terrain tires. This looks good but has been causing me a few promlems. Right after the lift and tires were complete I developed a vibration in the dirveline. So bad that it broke the seal on my transfer case and locked up on a church mission trip. I have replaced the transfer case and installed a pair of ladder bars on the rear axle. This helped but still had a bad vibration. When the lift was installed a spacer plate was installed between the transmission and transfer case thus pushing everything back toward the rear end about half an inch. The collar on the drive shaft from the transfer case to the center carrige bearing had to be removed because it was hitting the body of the truck. I realize that most likely would cause the drive shaft to be out of round and will need to get it rebalanced before it ruins any the new universal joints, or carrige bearing, but I do not feel the typical vibration at any speen usually caused by the drive shaft out of balance. After installing the ladder bars, and removing the collar on the drive shaft the vibration seemed to move to the transmission. After closer inspection I found a nub on the top of the transfer case that was hitting the under carraige of the floor. I was able to cut the nub off and reshape the floor, but the vibration is still there. It is most noticable when pulling our travel trailer for camping and pulling out going up hill in first and second gear. Most all vibrations go away in higher gears. I am in the process of replacing the rubber bushing on the cross member the bolts the transfer case to the frame with a neoprean bushing - thinking it is stiffer and will not let the transfer case/transmission twist as much. Beyone that initial problem, I plan on changing the axle gears to one better suited to get my low end torque back and wonder if that may help, but was saving that question for later when I ask about either changing my 5 speed tranny out to a 6 speed, 7 speed, or putting a split rear end to help with better low end torque, and lower RPM's at higher speeds.

Can you give me any help?

Sincerely,

Jack

I intend to do a flow test of the tranny fluid when installing the new coolers. What I have found, with out flow line unhook at the cooler with the engine at idle I should get a quart or more of fluid in 10 sec and no fluid coming out the other end that is open.

My 1996 Dodge ram 1500 started to have a vibration in the engine. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap and button. This has lessened the vibration, but at idle, acceleration and cruzing rpm's it is still there. I have been told it may be a cracked flywheel, is there any other causes?

Engine mounts are in good shape.

I have not tried that, but it also vibrates in nuetral. It appears to vibrate more when the rpm are increased and again when they are decreased. Thanks for all your help.

I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 4X4 with a little over 160,000 miles. It has a pretty good vibration that developes right at 70 mph and continues to 75mph. Very tough range to avoid when on the interstate. It seems like the whole truck vibrates. I bought the truck with about 125,000 miles and have no idea if any suspension parts have been replaced. Can you give me some ideas of things to check out.

Mine started to do it at 195,000 miles. But only at highway speeds like you were saying. Replaced u-joints front and rear, front R hub assembly replaced( it wasn't the hub), axle end replaced (not that either). Anyway it ended up being a bushing in the axle. Need more info. Got to Dodgetalk. Com.