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Solenoid replacement?

Tiny
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  • DODGE INTREPID
1998 Dodge Intrepid, roughly 99,000 miles, 2.7 DOHC 24-valve:

Check engine light has been going on and off for some time. Every mechanic I've taken it to has said to replace the plugs and wires, but I have already done that. Then, last week and again tonight, the car stalled out while going uphill while turning right or having just turned right and hitting a small pothole. Both times, the car would not turn over until some sort of impact to the front. A friend said it sounds like a bad solenoid. If so, any idea where it might be or, if not, what else it could be? Coil packs are good, plug sockets are good, plugs are good. The car makes a rattling noise too, at times, while driving, but mechanic said it was nothing to worry about, just something vibrating. Thanks.
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Sunday, February 25th, 2007 AT 9:55 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
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The solenoid gots nothing to do with stalling it out-why don't you try checking the fuel pressure and comeback
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Monday, February 26th, 2007 AT 1:43 AM
Tiny
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Wouldn't a fuel pressure problem manifest a lot more often than in those two scenarios? I mean, taking a right turn and going over a slight bump is something the average car does 4 or 5 times a day easily. Same with going uphill; I turn right into my work's parking lot on top of a hill and it doesn't do it there.

What about the blinking check engine light? Or the one that comes on and stays on throwing the random/multiple misfire code?
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Monday, February 26th, 2007 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
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Have the OBD2 pull and comeback w/the code
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Tuesday, February 27th, 2007 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
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The light is not on right now, but when it does come on, the code is always random/multiple misfire. This is a printout I got from Advanced Auto Parts when they hooked it up to the ODB2 machine:

"Codes:

ENG: 106/P0302
Multi-Cylinder
Misfire

Temporary Codes:

ENG: 108/P0302
Cylinder #2 Misfire

ENG: 109/P0303
Cylinder #3 Misfire

ENG: 174/P0305
Cylinder #5 Misfire

ENG: 175/P0306
Cylinder #6 Misfire

ENG: 106/P0300
Multi-Cylinder
Misfire"

And that's all it ever says. The plugs were replaced and the wires were checked by two different shops and pronounced to be just fine. If it's not the plugs/wires, it has to be farther down/back, right? The solenoid or whatever's feeding into it is what I was told to get checked out.
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Tuesday, February 27th, 2007 AT 9:42 AM
Tiny
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Misfires can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, a weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.

HTH-Good Luck
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Tuesday, February 27th, 2007 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
NOMIC
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Check the following
plugs
wires
distributor cap
rotar arm in distributor

if u r missfiring either u have replaced the leads in the wrong sequence or the rotar is not making contact with the distributor cap properly u can get a full kit for around $20 this will give u a new cap and rotar

try that let me know how it goes
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Friday, March 2nd, 2007 AT 3:24 PM
Tiny
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I didn't replace the plugs; that was done by a local dealership. It's presently at another one with instructions to give it a top to bottom inspection and locate any problematic components, connections, or anything else that looks awry. If they can't figure it out, I'll probably just trade it in.

It died on me today as I was heading out for a job interview, only this time I couldn't get it to stay started after giving it some taps on the front. It would sometimes turn over, but would immediately start to shake and then shut off again.
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Friday, March 2nd, 2007 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
NOMIC
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Dont waste money or a good car there could be nemerous simple things wrong with it from a loose battery cable to distributor or ground cable its sounding like a ground cable or battery lead when it dies and u try to turn it over again does the starter even move can u hear it trying to turn or is it just dead absoloutly nothing at all till u bump the car

could be a loose connection my friend had the same problam for months then I went and looked at it for him pulled on the live battery cable whist he tried to turn it over and it started something so simple
ppl miss

here is my yahoo id = newpcexpress

let me know how it goes
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Friday, March 2nd, 2007 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
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Turns out it was the crank sensor that was the problem as far as the stalling out goes. They replaced it and gave the engine a thorough check-over and found nothing amiss. Now my problem is that the oil light is on and won't go out. I added oil AND transmission fluid (though neither was close to bone dry) and it's still on. Could this be an aftereffect of the sensor replacement? How to get rid of it?

Thanks.
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Monday, March 5th, 2007 AT 11:13 PM
Tiny
NOMIC
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U might have low oil preasure

i havnt dealt much with oil preasur but I will give u a user name of someone who can help u

CHEVYII

he might be able to help you hes a moderator
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Tuesday, March 6th, 2007 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
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Engine lite On can be one of the following below-

Causes of Low Oil Pressure

Possible causes include:

Excessive main and rod bearing clearances (someone may have installed the wrong-sized bearings or standard-sized bearings on a reground crankshaft). Only 0.001" of extra clearance in the main bearings can reduce oil pressure by up to 20%!

Excessive camshaft bearing clearances (a bearing may have slipped out of place when the cam was installed).

Excessive clearances inside the oil pump.

Leaks between the oil pump and engine.

Oil pump relief valve stuck open or installed backward.

A loose or mispositioned oil pickup tube (too high in the oil pan).

A defective oil pressure sending unit or oil pressure gauge.

Low oil level in the oil pan.

Cracks or leaks in the oil galleries or gallery plugs.

Cracked oil pump housing (improper installation).

Oil viscosity too thin for hot weather.

Oil viscosity too thick for cold weather.

HTH-GooD Luck!
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Tuesday, March 6th, 2007 AT 12:51 PM

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