1995 Dodge Dakota No Start

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GOLUCKY05
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:cry: Hello, I own a 1995 Dodge Dakota Sport 4-cyl, 5 speed, 2.L 99,000 with fuel injection. I'm really am stumped on this. On and off in the last couple of weeks, my truck would hesitate for a second and then run fine. Didn't think too much of this until the day after christmas when I was driving to the store at night, the truck was again losing power (only for seconds at a time) and I noticed the lights (all lights) would dim down and come back up. I was scared to completely stop at this point but then thought it was the alternator going out. Well, 30 minutes later, in the parking lot the truck almost didn't start up after shopping ( it did after 5 or 6 times of turning over the engine and flooring the gas, it started but had a rough idle and then smoothed out). I made it home a little scared. The next day, I called a friend out to come and look at the truck. We drove it around the block and it ran perfectly. Nothing seemed to be wrong. My friend noticed that my battery cables were loose on the battery and he felt that was my problem. So we took off the terminals, cleaned them and put them back on tight. I was shocked to learn that my truck now won't start!. My friend unscrewed the fuel cap (to the gas tank) it started up but ran very poorly, back fired and sputtered. He let up on the gas and it died. I still can't get it to start. I have replaced the coil, the pickup coil, the distrubitor and rotor (which the rotor was clearly bad and burnt) Truck still won't start. I have no idea what could be wrong. It seems to "Try" for the first 2 or 3 turns of the engine then nothing. I tested the (new) coil spark it seemed that it sparks once or twice and then stops. I'm really confused! I would like to have a heads up before it goes into the shop. I'm a pizza driver and have been using this truck a lot lately for about 3 solid months now. No problems with beebop (truck's name) until now. Thanks so much! -shana
Jan 1, 2007 at 5:37 PM
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STRATUS98
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  • 96 POSTS
was the check engine light on? are you getting good spark? also you shouldn't pump the gas on a fuel injected vehicle.
Jan 1, 2007 at 5:50 PM
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GOLUCKY05
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Yes, the check engine light did come on and it gave me a a 1, 2 code which from what I read it means battery disconnect. I disconnected again and reconnect now the check engine light doesn't flash code anymore. It does come on while trying to start the truck, barely. I know about the pumping the gas on a fuel injected vehicle however, I was told (on my vw rabbit) that is normal to get started for a reason I forgot why.... though, this isn't a vw. I'm not too certain how good the spark is, from what I learned it's not all that great or none at all. My guess right now is the auto shutdown relay or the fuel pump. This truck has always started right up with no problems at all. What do you think? - shana
Jan 1, 2007 at 5:59 PM
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SERVICE WRITER
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If you turn the key to the on position, you should hear the fuel pump hum. By using a funnel as an amplifier and inserting it into the fuel tank filler neck, and a friend listening there you should be able to hear it when you cycle the key. If nothing, spray some starting fluid into the throttle body and then cranking the motor. If it starts for a moment, do it again and continue spraying once it starts. If it continues to run, the fuel delivery problem has been discovered.

For what it matters, Ignition wires can get stressed out from a weak cap and rotor, Not that this is your case or not.
Jan 1, 2007 at 10:45 PM

Suggested Repair

With the key on, listen at the fuel filler neck for the fuel pump to hum. If it is silent, spray starting fluid into the throttle body while cranking. If the engine runs only while spraying, the problem is fuel delivery, such as the fuel pump or auto shutdown relay. Also consider ignition wires damaged by a weak cap and rotor.

Conversation Summary

A 1995 Dodge Dakota 2.5L began hesitating, losing power, and dimming the lights, then would not start after the battery terminals were cleaned. The owner replaced the coil, pickup coil, distributor, and a burnt rotor, but spark still appeared only briefly. A code 12 after battery disconnect no longer flashed. The expert advised listening for fuel-pump prime and using a starting-fluid test to confirm a fuel-delivery fault, and noted that weak ignition parts can stress the plug wires.

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