Engine stalls while driving? Starts right back up?

If its shutting off codes may be stored. There is a "scan engine" section which explains how to see if your not getting a crankshaft sense or other problem. It's under 'site menu'. If you get any codes, it will help. ok

This guide can help find the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

Check for codes 1st and fix as needed if any
clean Throttle body and IAC valve
no codes check fuel pressure and check for pending codes and suspect crank sensor

If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure.

Thanks to more and more federal mandates, there is a system to monitor for fuel system leaks and to control expanding fuel vapors. Part of the vapor recovery system draws in the stored vapors until they can be burned in the engine. The engine computer is programmed to expect additional fuel when the "purge" system is being operated. Over-filling the tank allows liquid fuel to enter the vapor recovery tube near the top of the filler pipe. This raw liquid fuel presents way more fuel, by volume, than the computer expects and it can't adjust regular fuel metering to an acceptable level. The engine is getting too much fuel until the liquid is sucked out of the recovery system.

To prevent over-filling, when the pump clicks off, just finish out the dollar or the gallon and don't stuff any more fuel in. Some manufacturers go so far as to require you to not add any fuel at all once the pump kicks off.

Caradiodoc

Hello,

Could be any number of things.

First thing would be to get codes read and post here.

Possibilities.

Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
Fuel Pump
Ignition Coil
Broken Timing Belt

There are other possibilities. Getting codes read will help in reducing these possibilities.

Mark

.

I think it may be more the fuel pump then anything else. You could try changing parts but see if it's fuel pressure your losing by using a guage. The cap would not give you that type of problems but the weight of the fuel on the pump might. Have the computer tested for fault codes. I saw no service bulletins concerning this, and you would smell gas fumes if you had a vapor lock problem. Ok

An evaporative emissions purge solenoid is the valve that's controlled by the PCM and purges the vapors into your engine when temperature and speed all meet up and the computer operates this solenoid valve. It's not supposed to allow a purge so fast after a restart. Also if broken, they usually cause a purge all the time.
It's referred to as an evap. Purge solenoid, hases two vacuum hoses and a 2 wire connector on it. If you follow the one vacuum hose it leads to the vapor cannister and the larger hose coming out of it goes to your intake, you can close this off to check it. Also the EGR systym uses the same type of setup. See what the code says now. This evap solenoid is mounted on the right side of the engine compartment. Both are PCM controlled and I wouldn't want another sensor to be causing both. I just wanted you to understand these enission control systems a bit better. Good luck, I can't say I blame you for saving money but the light may need to be reset.

Check engine light coming on?

Limp it into an AutoZone have codes read then post will advise