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Engine stalling?

Tiny
BIGIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 108,600 MILES
Here is my problem


The van started stalling and check engine light came on. Codes read:

P0106-MAP sensor has a baro reading below an acceptable value.

p1496-5 volt output from regulator does not meet minimum requirement.

garage changed MAP sensor and after a long ride same problem stalling and check engine light. This time a new code came up along with the same two above:

p0122- throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage

Took van back to garage, they said they tested the 5 volt supply it was fine but after an extended warm up tested it again and the readings were low. They said I needed a new PCM. They would charge $805, I found a rebuilt PCM for $275 and replaced myself.

Same thing, after a long drive check engine light comes on and spits out the same codes.

Can anyone help?

thanks in advance
Michael
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Sunday, July 18th, 2010 AT 7:08 PM

53 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

First thing would like you to check is the wiring behind the thermostat for exposed wires. If they are exposed fix wiring and test.

Post findings.

.
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Sunday, July 18th, 2010 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
BIGIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Ok, I will check that out and get back to you.
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Monday, July 19th, 2010 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
BIGIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I cannot figure out what wires you may be refering to behind the thermostat. The only wires near the thermostat are the spark plug wires, and they are fine.
Do you know where I can get a wiring diagram for the 2001 grand caravan se? I need to know what sensors the 5 volt supply wire all feeds on my vehicle. I also need to know the path the 5 volt wire takes in my wiring harness. Thanks
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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
The 5-volt supply output is monitored when ignition is on. DTC will be stored in Powertrain Control Module (PCM) memory if 5-volt supply output to sensors is less than 3.5 volts for 4 seconds. Possible causes for DTC to set are: intermittent condition, defective A/C pressure sensor, defective Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, defective Throttle Position (TP) sensor, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring.

1.Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If Good Trip counter is displayed for DTC P1496 and displayed count is "0", go to next step. If Good Trip counter is not displayed for DTC P1496 or displayed count is not "0", go to step 8.

2.Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect TP sensor connector. TP sensor is mounted on throttle body. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor connector. If voltage is less than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or more, go to step 7.

3.Turn ignition off. Ensure TP sensor connector is still disconnected. Connect a voltmeter between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor harness connector. Turn ignition on. Note voltage reading. Disconnect MAP sensor connector and note voltage reading. If voltage did not change from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage changed from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, replace MAP sensor.

4.Ensure ignition is on and voltmeter is still connected between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor harness connector. Note voltage reading. Disconnect A/C pressure sensor connector. A/C pressure sensor is located on A/C refrigerant line between filter-drier and expansion valve in right rear corner of engine compartment. If voltage did not change from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage changed from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, replace A/C pressure sensor.

5.Turn ignition off. Ensure TP sensor, MAP sensor and A/C pressure sensor connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located on left side of engine compartment, in front of battery. Measure resistance between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in 5-volt supply circuit (Pink/Yellow wire) to TP sensor. See WIRING DIAGRAMS article.

6.At this time PCM is assumed to be defective. Replace PCM. Program the new PCM. See PROGRAMMING.

7.Turn ignition off. Reconnect TP sensor connector. Disconnect MAP sensor connector and note voltage reading on voltmeter. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and 5-volt supply circuit at terminal No. 3 at MAP sensor harness connector. If voltage is 4.5 volts or more, go to next step. If voltage is less than 4.5 volts, replace TP sensor.

8.At this time, conditions for DTC to set do not exist or fault is an intermittent problem. Start engine and allow it to idle. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Using scan tool, monitor parameters related to DTC while wiggling connectors and wiring harness. If value changes while wiggling connectors and wiring harness, repair connectors and wiring harness where wiggling caused value to change. If value does not change, review Freeze Frame data using scan tool. Attempt to duplicate condition that caused DTC to set. Check for any related technical service bulletins that may apply. Visually inspect related connectors and wiring harness. Repair connectors and wiring harness as necessary. See WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If no problems are indicated, test is complete.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals

.
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Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
MIKE HARVEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 1997 Grand Caravan 3.8 with similar symptoms. Been chasing this intermittent stalling for 2 years. Finally nailed it today. Didn't have all of the codes as you but did have the Baro out of range code. Where the plug for the MAP sensor terminates in the engine harness the wires were broken inside the insulation. Read it all with VOM and then checked for continuity thru the plug probing the wires about an inch back. When flexing the wires near the plug found the intermittent open circuits. Plugged it back in and moved the wires with the engine running and could duplicate the stalling. Best I could tell the weight of the main harness was putting the wires/plug in a bind at certain times. Just the weight of my finger on the harness would cause it to stall. So made up a new pigtail and extended it taking the weight off the wires. Zip tied it all and good to go. Lot of time in this one. Just an extra vehicle to us but didnt want it stalling with the wife and kids in it. 265,000 miles and still runs good. Hope this helps someone out there.
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)
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Tuesday, April 16th, 2019 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
STONECUTTAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,000 MILES
My wife was driving home and the van cut off.
We had it towed to our house and I looked at it.
What I see is when you turn the key in the ignition nothing happens.
No lights on the panel nothing.
No check engine, ect,

The headlights come on and the blower fan comes on.
The map lights work and the flashers come on.
The turn signals will not work even with the ignition all the way on.

I ohmed out the 30 amp fuse and visually inspected the rest.
If you leave the drivers door open and put the key in the chime comes on.

Acts like there is a short in there some where, any help would be great.
Thanks
The radio will eject a cd, but will not turn on otherwise.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DON OLIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 101 POSTS
I had an issue kinda like that and found the starter wiring was damaged which killed most of the stuff you describe. Can't hurt to check it.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOTGOINGANYWHERE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1991 DODGE CARAVAN
Van started to feel like it was going to stall while driving originally, then the maintenance light came on.
Then the stalling actually occured either immediately after starting the engine, or stopped at an intersection, or slowing down to making a turn.
We then brought it into the repair shop for a major tune up. This had actually made the problem worse.

Now, the car would start, and then stall after a few minutes of driving. Restarting the engine has gotten harder and harder. The final episode occurred when I was driving at a speed of around 60km/hr, the car just started decelerating by itself, and then when it reached around 40 km/hr, it was back to normal.

It would stall again the next few minutes, and I had to wait about 5 minutes before I could get it going again, and then I was able to drive for about 20 minutes to get home without any problems.

This morning, I could not start the car at all. It needed to be towed back to the shop at the shop's expense, and they told me that the 'distributor' cap was loose! And then later called me that I had to change the fuel pump. This was after the fact that I had already spent 600 plus dollars on a tune up. The fuel pump would cost me another 700 dollars to replace! Is this where the problem lies? Could the problem be with something really minor that has been overlooked?
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be the ASD relay, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and last the PCM.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOTGOINGANYWHERE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So we replaced the fuel pump, and it still will not start. So now we are thinking it is the electrical problem. How should we start diagnosing the problem? Is there a step by step guide with diagrams so we won't mess things up?

Thanks
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Turn key to On-do you hear the fuel pump humming/buzzing for a few secs. If not its an electrical problem.

Remember the computer energizes a relay-maybe an ASD relay if it has one or fuel pump relay before it gets to the pump.

Could be an ignition control module, coil, or crankshaft position sensor.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREW720691
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1991 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
I have a 1991 dodge caravan, the problem is the van won't stay on when started. Starts, then have to keep gas petal down for it to stay on once gas pedal is released engine stops. Then I turn the key again and it starts. What is this problem
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOTGOINGANYWHERE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So the car ran fine for a few days, and today it acted up again. It stalled, and I haven't been able to start it. I will try again later.

In response to your question, yes, I can hear the humming noise from the feul pump when I turn the key to ON. This is very consistent after we changed the fuel pump. Before we did this, sometimes we could hear the humming, sometimes not.

So you don't think it is an electrical problem?
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Check for a vacuum leaks
is time for a tune up
check /clean /replace idle valve
good luck
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BELIZEAN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Check your fuel Filter in the tank
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOTGOINGANYWHERE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So we fixed the problem
not the fuel pump, not the oxygen sensor

IT WAS THE PHOTO OPTIC SENSOR.
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Wednesday, April 17th, 2019 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZELLETATE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 180,000 MILES
Be driving and car cuts off
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Check fuel pump pressure and spark to the engine when it dies. From there, you can focus on the component that is causing the problem.
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-1
Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MJLOWE75
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1990 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
I briefly got the car running again today after about 45 minutes of cranking, but it was extremely rough. Any time the gas pedal was pressed it would sputter more and die. The fuel pump is about 2 years old. I checked the fuel filter and it was quite clogged. I replaced the fuel filter but that did not fix the issue. I then replaced the distributor and wires. Still no go. I then had the fuel injectors cleaned. Still no go. The TPS sensor has also recently been replaced. I have checked the air filter and it is also fine. I did notice some backfiring at times in the intake manifold. Another thing I noticed is that when I turned the engine off after it had run for a while either the TPS sensor or something near it would make clicking noises for about 20 seconds then stop. There are no check engine codes showing either. What else can I check. I cannot even get it to start now.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:59 PM (Merged)

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