Engine stalls during excessive heat?

Tiny
JOSEV909
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
I have a 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan that is fine while the temperature outside is around the 90's but once the temp outside hits the 101 the car starts to stall and giving it more gas does nothing, eventually after 5 min it shuts off and will not start until the van cools down. I was told that the gas pump for that year had some issues with it overheating and shutting off. Can some one please help?
Monday, September 27th, 2010 AT 6:42 PM

37 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Suspect crank sensor or an ASD relay after it stalls and fail to start do you have a check engine light on? Does it go off when cranking and no start or it stay on check fuel pressure. This guide can help us pinpoint the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, September 27th, 2010 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
JOSEV909
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I don't recall if the check engine light stays on but when I try to restart the car it sounds like its not getting enough gas. Ive checked the spark plugs and wires and there fine.
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2010 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Which V6 you have
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2010 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
JOSEV909
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
3.3L
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2010 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Mark ASD relay and switch with another relay

also try to notice for check engine as cranking and no start if light stay on suspect and replace crank sensor
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Wednesday, September 29th, 2010 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
RONDAFITZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,000 MILES
Problem started while driving: Stalled out. Waited 15 minutes, restarted ran fine for 15 miles - repeated to get home. Ran fine after stopping overnight for 1000 miles. Now it will start, but it backfires through the intake, and can only keep it running by feathering the gas. Has new plugs, wires, put another (used) coil pack in, stripped wiring harness under battery to check for corrosion, no obvious problems there. Added dry gas and injector cleaner in case it was bad gas, but didn't start after fueling. Code on dash was 43 (spark interface/primary coil wire). Unfortunatly codes were cleared when I disconnected battery, and can't get a reading now. Any ideas or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Check compression, sounds like a worn cam, or stuck valve or lifter. Or a busted timing chain.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RONDAFITZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Merlin, Thanks for your answer. I was trying to figure out how to check the timing chain. A mechanic friend said no way to do it in this style other than to rip the engine apart. Is that right? Could it have slipped? Thanks.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Well, you can put the crank at top dead center and see where the number one cylinder ends up. But a compression test will point to engine damage or timing chain.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RONDAFITZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
That's what I thought Merlin. Thanks for getting back to me on the holiday weekend. I'll follow up with the results of the compression test as soon as I can get it done. If compression's bad, I guess that'll be the end of this poor old baby.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKEDINK99
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95,000 MILES
Drove the van this morning - got back to go home, cvan would start but then stall almost immediately. Was able to get going then stall again. This happened about 5 times (1 mile) before I could get it home. Sounds like a gas line problem but not sure. Any suggestions?
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi:
Have the fuel pressure tested. You can rent or borrow the tool from most nationally recognized parts stores. It hooks up on the fuel rail.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
95CAR-A-VAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Salut mikedink99.

Did you read some of Theese Excellent infos @t:
https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_does_my_engine_die_stall_at_idle.htm

I'm having a similar problem:
1995 Caravan, V6, 3.3L, automatic, 225 000 KM = Last model-year of same generation as yours.
It starts but will not idle! Runs smooth when i give it gas, but will not idle! repeated self intentionaly
btw > I live in Montréal, Canada. Cold and/or wet winters!!
Here's what I've noticed in the last weeks:
Battery seemed to weakened (Slower turning starter), Radio-clock will not work (Fuse good).
Then today=
Tried to start Caravan. Cranked ok, fired-up, revs-up, but unable to idle. I had to reStart 3 times.
On the fourth try = Battery too weak to do it's job. I used the jumper pack to reStrat it 2 more times.
Reved-it-up for 1 minute to recharge both batteries. Still no idle = stalls!
Here's what I've done, and discovered:
Removed my battery to take it inside, inspect the liquid level and recharge-it. Yep! It's low on water.
And it has ONLY! 11.97 Volts. "it's DEAD Jim!". I topped it with neutral water and put the charger on.
(Last time i did that on previous car's batt., it did not bring my battery back to scale!) Still trying...
I'm suspecting that the too low VOLTage might have induce errors in ECM... I'm just guessing.
So I went back-out to the Van, and cycled the codes using the Power-Pack. Hey! The radio is ON!?!
But! Since I removed all power to the Computers for over 1 hour, codes are useless.
I only got 12, and 55 wich is END of diagnostic according to my Haynes Sunday Mechanic book.

Ok. Loooong post! Sorry...
I'll let the 1 amp charger do it's work overnight, take a measure, and see about this trouble tomorrow.
Maybe will have to go buy a New Battery... Hoping that will end this Stalling Trouble!!!...
N.B.:
And I will try to remember to post here with latest news. Ciao Dude.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
95CAR-A-VAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Solution:=:=>
Replaced The Old, "it's Dead! Jim", Battery. Circa June 2006.

And now it's OK, xcept for the Radio-Clock that still won't come on!
Starts, idles and drives.

Did not have to replace any symptomatic sensors/valves :
Being;
, IAC= Idle Air Control Valve,
, MAP= Manifold Absolute Pressure,
, EGR= Exhaust Gas Recirculation
, Oxygen sensor, on Exhaust Manifold,

Darn CONmputers!
Electronics should have NEVER been Mixed with Mechanics!
I can understand it for emissions and performance, butt! Error intented = Cause it's a pain in thee!
But Pe-Leazzz! Make them better than Windows! I mean PLEASE! Come! On!

As for the radio-clock that will not come on, I'm now suspecting said accessory.
But who knows, , if it's still because of that Darn little silver box! = Dah CONpiouter.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OLEGRIZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 49,000 MILES
Eng. 3.3
Stalls when hot (normal running temp. ), During a turn, or slowing to a stop, sometimes when idling.
Stall is intermittent and unpredictable, at times no problem and then it may occur with repetition.
I have replaced fuel pump and filter, crankcase sensor, map sensor. Idle speed sensor, spark plug wiring. Checked wiring in general and vacuum lines.
I note comments re similar problems same model/year and wonder if there is a issue with one thing in particular?
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CH112063
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,320 POSTS
Hi, no, there are quite a few things that go wrong with the 3.3L and in the shop I rarely see anything but vans that have problems. The cam and crankshaft sensors are used by the PCM to determine injector and coil drivers, the PCM, the VSS, the torque converter, shutdown relay, the engine wiring harness, also the 60 way connector at the PCM had problems. The first step is to read all the controllers for fault codes. You can try doing this, turn key on, off, on, off, on and watch the "check engine" light. It will flash, and sometimes a hard code will show up. The TPS or MAP sensor, it seems as if you have a short or open near the engine 10 pin connector where the harness feeds the engine. Try checking the codes. The crank sensor reads a notch in the torque converter and they had problems with the flex plate but you'll get a crank sensor code. If there is a problem with the ignition switch or security system this will happen also. Sorry but the codes are important. Without them you must move all the primary ignition wiring and sensor connectors to see if you can shut it off. Fuel pressure may be too low, they had problems with the rail and pressure regulator also. With injection it's sometimes hard to tell if its spark or fuel. Good luck. Fuse 15 is right out of the ign. Switch inside, try moving around the wiring under the steering column behind the fuses also. You understand why the codes are so important. The PCM gets power from a red/ wht wire that's fused in the power center, the area under this black power center next to the battery was a problem. The grounds for the PCM are on the left inner fender near the battery and theres another near the starter motor. I used to start tapping the sensors and moving the harness around. Check the codes first. There were no bulletins regarding any faults with the wiring on an S body. I checked.
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-1
Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TONYZMDMAMA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
1994 Dodge Caravan

my enigine shuts off after the car gets warm. We have replaced the alternator and the battery so far. Still shutting off.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Does it start right back up? Or do you have to wait until it cools off.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
If this is the case. Then I suggest the crank position sensor is looked at and replaced if necessary, also when the car shuts off, is a good time to check fuel pressure and spark, this will help determine, which direction to go. But as I said, I suspect the crank sensor.
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm
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Monday, September 21st, 2020 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)

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