Engine misfire? I've been getting the P0301 code?

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
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Yes I have no further suggestions without doing tests myself.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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The coil you replaced with, was it a dealer coil, or aftermarket? Ive seen new coils that were bad out of the box. Your complaint is weak spark on some, good on others. Verify its good out of coil 1st. Take a known good wire, and connect an inline spark tester (one that u can adjust the gap on) so u can check for a healthy blue spark. If still no good spark, we will need to further diag.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Ive been stewing on this for a while. You said you drove it for a while, and still no check engine light? If you dont have spark, it would set a flashing CEL for whatever cylinder is misfiring (it flashes because its performing damage) the firing order on this, are you certain its correct? You may have crossed wires, so it runs, but wont set a misfire code.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SH4664
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Thank you for the follow up madmike1735.

I had replaced the original coil pack with an aftermarket couple of years ago as a "routine maintenance". The original coil was working fine so I had kept it as spare. When misfire started, I first swaped with the original coil that I had kept and then got another brand new one. Both swaps didn't fix the problem.

Regarding spark check, I used an inline spark tester that flashes and things looked ok. I then decided to do an alternate check by pulling the wires and holding them close to the spark plug tip. My plugs sit between exhaust manifold and what I noticed was that bright white sparks arced to the manifold in a circulation on each fire on cylinder 2 4 and 5. On the other three cylinders I saw small bright white arc going between wire and spark plug tip. When I turned the a/c on (this is when misfire is most obvious) and reved the engine, sparks on 1 and 6 disappeared. I didn't check 3, but I think its safe to say that it lost the spark. As well.

I have checked and rechecked for cross wiring. My wires and coil have numbers on them so its difficult to make mistake.

I was considering replacing crankshaft position sensor but something tells me that's not the problem. Mostly when crank sensor fails, there is no spark on all cylinders.

The van shudders badly over 40; you can't drive the thing so I am baffled why its not setting at least some code.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Yea, the crank sensor will cause a loss of spark to all cylinders. An inline spark tester will give false readings- as you found out by checking for a healthy spark by pulling wires, and checking for the spark to jump. Im confused as all hell on this. Your coil takes voltage it recieves, and through "coiling" very fine wire inside, it amplifies your voltage, and thats why you get a good spark. Its increasing for example a 12v signal, but multiplies it to an output of maybe 20,000 volts. (Some cars go up to 60,000 volts) what bothers me, is your coil is giving the symptom of not working. Its getting a signal to it, but not multiplying it for say, and is giving a lousy spark on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders. Is this making sense?
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SH4664
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It makes sense but I don't know where to go from here and what to eliminate besides throwing parts.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Id hate to see you waste money, and time also. But the evidence here is pointing towards the coil. I hate aftermarket coils (been burned by them-new out of box, and no good) I would buy a new coil from the dealer. I know its not the answer your looking for, but we need to eliminate it. I understand you have the one that came out. But coils do break down over time. Start with a new one. Or if you know anybody with the same vehicle- see if you can borrow their coil just to verify it will correct the problem. Coils are most common, and my gut is saying go with it.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SH4664
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Wanted to post the find for others. The coil wasn't the problem. In the end, it turned out to be a bad spark plug. Still don't know why no misfire code was being set but then I am no expert on how the computer system works.

Thanks Madmike1735 for trying.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Im very glad you found the problem! Give your self a pat on the back, you earned it! Wierd a single plug caused this. Usually it will set a misfire code fast. Without access to a good scan tool, we couldnt have told you to gain access to Mode $6. This is the easiest way to verify a misfire in a cylinder. However these scan tools cost atleast 2500$ (thats what I paid for my OTC genisys)
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARRIN223
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  • 2001 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
My van has been misfiring randomly for a while now. I have changed the EGR valve, crank sensor, oil pressure sensor, gaskets (intake and valve covers), coil, wires, spark plugs, oil and oil filter. It idled real bad until I changed the PCV valve then it ran perfect for about fifty miles and all the sudden the oil light came on, engine light came on and the engine shut off. That is when I changed the oil pressure sensor and I was able to turn the engine over. But not it is misfiring very badly and once put into drive it shut off once given gas.
Does anyone have a solution?
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The first thing and easiest to do is check trouble codes to see if there is something that is related to the misfire. If it is missing, you will have those codes. However, see of there are others that may be leading to the problem.
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-1
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARRIN223
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I have checked the codes multiple time. I only receive the generic code P-03000 Cylinders 1-10. I only have six cylinders and it shows up 1-6 times. It never gives me a cylinder exactly.
The van sat for four years but was turned over regularly to keep fluids flowing and the battery normal.
Does anyone think I could have a clog in my fuel system (even though I am getting fuel but most of it is being spit out of the tail pipe unburned due to misfire)?
It rough idles now in park or neutral but in gear it stalls nearly moments after shifted into gear or reverse.
Also, I have an inkling that it might be internal. Can anyone confirm my ideas?
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It could be several things. The coolant temp sensor could even be playing a role in the problem. If the sensor malfunctions and tells the computer that it is extremely cold, the computer compensates by making the fuel mixture richer. With your scanner, check to see what the sensor is reading. NOTE: If it is reading an extremely cold temp, it will not set a code because the computer things it is working.

Next, check to make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. If there is too much pressure, that can cause issues. Finally, when you say internal problems, I think of a compression issue. If it is too low, it won't fire the cylinder or create a misfire.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARRIN223
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Thank you for that. I didn’t think to check the coolant sensor. That does make sense it would burn richer if it was thinking it was colder. I also am going to do a compression test on the motor to see if it is an internal issue because I think there might be a spring broken or a rod bent maybe. Also I’m gonna check the fuel pump as well as the oil pump. It seemed odd the oil pressure light turned on moments before the motor died. I’m also in the process of replacing most if not all sensors sense I found a lot of corrosion and brittleness to a lot of the sensors. I am in Las Vegas so the heat could have just eroded the sensors sitting in the desert sun for 4 yrs.
I will post an update once I have completed said obstacles.
Thank you again.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARRIN223
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Update: so it turns out it was the very first thing I thought it was. My ECU fried out. Ordered a new one and placed it in and the van started up and now drives like new. Thanks you for the advice and support.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)

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