Engine is overheating?

Tiny
JASON OLDFIELD
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I am at wits end again with this van. The van overheats seemingly at random.

I have replaced the:
Radiator
Thermostat
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Water Pump
Heat Coil Bypass hose

The vehicle will stay at normal temperature for a long time. Then eventually it will start overheating. The reservoir remains full and there is no evidence for a blown head gasket. Please help! The Demons are eating my van!
Sunday, November 10th, 2019 AT 4:22 PM

46 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Unfortunately, this may be a head gasket. I have seen a number of times that the head gasket allows combustion chamber gases into the coolant when it gets hot.

The way to test this is when it starts to overheat you need to test for combustion gases.

I hate to say it but normally these hard to find and duplicate overheating normally always comes back to the head gasket.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
JASON OLDFIELD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.1L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
We fixed my stalling out and now my van is seeming to overheat. I replaced the coolant sensor because it was doing this before.

I drove the van to the gas station and the engine stayed at the right temperature. I go inside, come back out, and somehow the van overheated while it was turned off.

Turning it on and off a few times got the temperature to register back at operating level.

I do not see how it could be hotter while not even on than it was while running.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

It is not uncommon for an engine to get hotter when it is turned off however, it should not actually overheat when it is off unless it was on its way to overheating while it was running. The temperature goes up because the coolant is no longer moving so the coolant gets hotter and the temperature sensor is picking that up. Then starting the vehicle gets the coolant moving again and the gauge will come down.

Did the vehicle actually overheat?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JASON OLDFIELD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I can only go by the temperature gauge. It was fully in the red.

It did overheat the previous day because the coolant ran low, it has an intermittent leak.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Ok. That makes more sense. I suspect you have an air pocket. I would use a funnel kit like the one pictured below. Make sure the fans are working and then hook up this funnel using the correct adapter that is provided and put some coolant in it. Then start the engine until it gets hot. Then run it until all the air bubbles come out and it is not pulling in any more coolant. Just make sure the funnel is not empty. However, don't put more than the bottom 25% of the funnel with coolant because it could overflow.

As for the leak, we need to pressurize the system to see if we can find the leak. Here is a guide that will take you through the basics of a leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

If we don't fix the leak then I would not start with the overheating. Basically it will be a never ending cycle.

If the leak is now repaired, then we need to use the funnel. Let me know if this doesn't makes sense.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KLOLDFIELD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
We finally found one the issues. There is a tiny crack at the top of radiator (drivers side as look at front of van) that was under the plastic covering.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. That is great. Once repaired we need to retest and see where we are. Clearly replacing the radiator will require a drain and fill of the system. Just make sure we use one of those funnels that I showed before and that will prevent an air pockets so maybe we will catch any other problems with that. Thanks
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHOJOR30
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
Engine Cooling problem
2004 Chrysler Town and Country 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive 103225 miles

After replacing the water pump, thermostat and radiator what can still cause the car to overheat?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Make sure none of the radiator hoses are collapsing when the engine gets hot. Also, a bad head gasket. HAve you checked engine compression? Also, are the cooling fans coming on properly?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRUSH1283
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
My van is still overheating after replacing radiator, radiator cap and water pump. Where do I go from here? No water is leaking that I can see and yet I have to keep adding fluid and temperature jumps high very quickly while idling or driving.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
You may have an internal leak into the cylinders. You can get a head check done, this is a quick and simple chemical test to determine if combustion gasses are entering the cooling system. Most mechanics can do this test as you wait.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,576 POSTS
The fact that the temperature jumps up fast points at a head gasket leak, as does it using coolant with no sign of an external leak. Combustion gas test is an easy test, you can even DIY it with a rental kit. It uses a fluid that reacts to the gases present in engine exhaust, none of which should exist in the cooling system. The fluid starts as blue, you draw some of the "air" that is in the cooling system up into the fluid, if it turns yellow you have a leak.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DPERKINS6
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
Radiator and radiator fan repair/replacement. Van overheats when idled, service center says fan went into radiator, causing engine to overheat, and says I need a new engine, is this possible?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
If coolant is not leaking onto the ground, you should most likely not need a new radiator. As for the engine, is it running yet? If it runs at normal temperature at highway speeds, I don't why they would say you need a new engine. You might want to get a second opinion.

Caradiodoc
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOMMYCROMBIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
The engine overheating light and signal start after about 1 mile of driving. The engine will often make a gurgling/grinding type sound, then the temperature gage drops and the signal stops. The sound seems to be coming from the engine behind the middle of the dash or lower passenger side. Often the gurgling/grinding sound will come when I stop (at a light or stopsign, etc.). Our mechanic thought it was the radiator and just replaced both the radiator and the engine thermometer. However, there has been no change. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Was any repair done before the problem? You maybe hearing the heater core as coolant passes through. Was new radiator cap installed? Does it overheat at each startup? After is it O.K?
Let me know
Thanks for donate
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOMMYCROMBIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for replying so fast!

No repairs were done immediately before the problem. The car was fine. On the way home from a trip to the beach (about a 4 hour trip), the overheating light/signal came on. My husband noticed that there was no coolant in the car. We refilled the coolant (and kept refilling it). That's when we took it to our mechanic. He replaced the radiator and thermometer. Not sure about the cap. I'll ask. It's actually there now. We took it back. At first he thought it may be the water pump, but that appears to be working fine. He's still trying to figure out the problem.

Yes, the light/alarm come on after each startup. Usually after I've driven about one mile or so. After the sound and the light/alarm going off. It takes a little longer, but will eventually heat back up.

Let me know if you need more info. THANKS!
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Have your mechanic check oil? And check for coolant in cumbustion chamber.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THESHADOW77
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 200,000 MILES
The van is overheating according to the gauge, it is almost all the way up. However there is no boiling from the overflow or steam. Have changed out temperature sending unit and thermostat. When diagnosing computer hooked up it says temp is around 240 running, does not go over and the fans are kicking on when they should. HELP!
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
That's running somewhat hot. Have you tried flushing the cooling system?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)

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