Codes PO340 and PO365, engine cranks over will not start

Tiny
JOSEPH601
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 CHEVROLET CRUZE
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I've replaced crankshaft sensor, checked VVT actuators on cams getting fuel getting spark. I'm getting a po340 and po365 which are circuit interruption with cam shaft sensors. They both checked out good. I'm lost on it.
Friday, June 10th, 2022 AT 9:04 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,561 POSTS
Hi,

If the sensors are good, you must be dealing with a wiring issue. Are these the only codes that are present? When the vehicle is running, how does it act?

As far as the wiring, I attached pinpoint, diagnostic testing below. Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them. Also, here is a link you may find helpful when testing wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, June 10th, 2022 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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These are the only codes I'm getting now, and the car won't crank and run at all, it just turns over but won't start and run. I was told it may be that it needs an oil change because that's what controls the timing by oil pressure it advances and retards timing with the cam actuator solenoids. I let the oil get over the oil life percentage ignored it twice they said the oil broke down and has sludge and dirty not giving the right pressure as new oil and the car must be changed every three thousand miles. I'm lost.
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Saturday, June 11th, 2022 AT 9:25 AM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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P0013, P2091, and P0641.
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Saturday, June 11th, 2022 AT 9:28 AM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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  • 13 POSTS
I really need this car back running. Also, the wireless key start with the key fob remote doesn't work anymore either, but was working before it did this no start issue if that matters.
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Saturday, June 11th, 2022 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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The oil should be serviced, but unless it has become tar in the engine, it wouldn't prevent it from starting.

The codes you provided indicate there is a short to power at the exhaust cam actuator. Disconnect it and check for a 5v reference to it. Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, June 11th, 2022 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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Check the pigtail wire that goes to actuator is that correct. Which color wire should I check and does ignition need to be on are off?
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Sunday, June 12th, 2022 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

At the actuator, there should be a gray wire with a blue tracer and a black wire with a violet tracer. The gray/blue should have the 5v reference. The black/violet is a low reference wire which is basically a ground provided via the PCM.

Take a look below at the pic.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below.
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Sunday, June 12th, 2022 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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This is voltage to the hot wire on both camshaft actuator solenoids intake side and exhaust side which is 11.2.
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Monday, June 13th, 2022 AT 9:37 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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This is voltage to one of the 3 wire plugs on both camshaft sensors intake side and exhaust side which is 4.9 volts.
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Monday, June 13th, 2022 AT 9:39 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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Can this be a computer problem in the car are how likely is that to be?
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Monday, June 13th, 2022 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

You are basically getting battery voltage to the sensors. That's the problem. You asked the probability of it being a computer. I don't like saying it, but the chances are higher than I would like. However, it could simply be a short.

I attached diagnostics to further your testing below. They are broken into steps. You have already completed some of the preliminary tests. Read through them and see what you find. After I read through them, I feel you either have a short to B+ on the 5v reference or the ECM is bad.

If you look down to step 4 of the diagnostics, you have already verified there is too much voltage, so the directions are indicating to disconnect the ECM and start checking at the ECM K20 module. In section 4, go down to where it indicates more than 5.2V and continue from there.

Remember, The ECM can supply 5v or 12v to various sensors. This is done through a pull-up resistor to regulate the power supplies within the ECM. If you get B+ voltage to the 5v signal wire right at the PCM, the resistor has failed.

Take a look through the diagnostics below and let me know if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, June 14th, 2022 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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I'm getting battery voltage at solenoid actuators intake exhaust side and no volts at ECM wiring of either of the four wires running out ECM plug to solenoids.
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Wednesday, June 15th, 2022 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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I've test the wires hooked up to ECM with key on and off also checked wires unhooked from ECM with key on and off no voltage at ECM, but has the battery's voltage at solenoid actuators even now that my battery is down to like 8.3 volts since car not running and me not putting charger on it. It reads the 8.3 volts at solenoids when it was reading 11 something volts at solenoids before when battery had the more volts. This this car has me so messed up.
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Wednesday, June 15th, 2022 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Are you getting power from the ECM? You indicated you don't. But, when you connect the ECM, do you have B+ voltage to the solenoids? I ask because that doesn't make sense to me unless there is a short to power in the ECM wiring harness. Also, if you are getting no voltage right at the ECM, chances are it has failed, and needs replaced.

Let me know. Sorry, I'm just trying to clarify what exactly is happening.

Joe
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Wednesday, June 15th, 2022 AT 9:55 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
  • MEMBER
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At the black connector on ECM with key on I'm not getting any voltage at the wires but at the connectors of the solenoid actuators I'm getting battery voltage whatever's in my battery. There's a blue black and gray connected on the ECM the wires I traced back from the actuator's go to the black one.
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Thursday, June 16th, 2022 AT 9:48 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

If you are getting nothing at the ECM, I suspect it's bad. As far as the power at the actuator, B+, I suspect you are getting power from the ECM through the wrong wire, or when you connect the ECM, there is a pin that is shorting power to it. Otherwise, nothing would make sense. If you traced the wires back to the ECM and there was nothing damaged or shorting, that is what I suspect is happening. Something in the ECM has shorted. Even if there was a pin in the connector that was bad, that wouldn't explain why you don't have a 5v reference at the ECM.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, June 16th, 2022 AT 9:48 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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Okay, I went back over everything I'm getting battery voltage out of ECM on both 5v reference wires I assume that assures me going to need new ECM and it flashed to my VIN.
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2022 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

It sounds like something shorted internally. I suspect you are correct. Here is what I suggest.

There are several places online that sell remanufactured ECMs. About a year ago, I had to replace my own. Here is the good part: it wasn't too expensive, and they prepared it to simply be a plug-and-play install.

I questioned if it was going to work, but all I did was remove and replace it, the truck started right up, and I haven't touched it since.
.
Once I received the ECM, I had 7 days to return my old one. They gave me 7 days to confirm the one I received was good.

It's a thought. I think I paid around $150.00 for it

Let me know if I can help. Also, let me know if this takes care of the issue.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2022 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
JOSEPH601
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Okay, I will let you know as soon as I get one. Thank you for your help, God bless.
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2022 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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You are very welcome and God bless. I feel everyone in the world anymore could use a good blessing.

Take care of yourself.

Joe
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2022 AT 10:26 PM

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