Sorry it's taking so long to get back to you. The holidays are making it hard to get time to troubleshoot this, as well as the fact that the vehicle is nearly an hour drive from me. I did notice that the ground terminal and cable had some corrosion so I replaced the terminal and cleaned the contact points on the chassis and engine block.
After doing that, the car is now a no crank and the security light is lit! Is there a way to reset the security light without a scan tool after a battery disconnect?
I did some of the checks you suggested and the results are below.
Is Fuse 1 10amp correct?
Yes, it is 10 A on the bottom left hand side of the fuse panel/junction box inside the glove compartment. I pulled the connector, no corrosion or bad pins. Also back probed and 12 V is present with the koeo.
If you pull this ECM Relay, do you have 2 relay pins that are hot at all times?
The ECM relayhas 12 v on the supply to the coil and the supply to the normally open pin of the contacts.
Okay, I think the power issue from Fuse 1 to ECM pin 109 is the main issue,
I probed the E119 connector pin #8 White w/ red stripe (found diagram on Alldata IPDM E_R (Intelligent Power Distribution Module Engine Room) no 12V!
I think there is a break in the wire from fuse 1 but it is very difficult to get to the harness to sort through all the wires and isolate that one. Should I try temporarily replacing it with a jumper wire? I could tap onto the output of the fuse #1 and the wire at the base of connector E119 so there would be protection and less chance of making an error.
I ran out of time at this point so I didn't get to checking fuse 53 but I'm pretty sure I checked it last time and it was good. I will reverify at the earliest opportunity.
Nissan service info is terrible.
I have to agree with you there! I can't find any rhyme or reason... let alone logic, to it!
Dec 30, 2022 at 3:50 PM