Crank no start

Tiny
CASSG8T
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
Car listed above is an EX-L.


Bought the car as a project, cranks doesn't start. Below is what I have ruled out this far.

1) Tried starting fluid trick - didn't work.

2) Marked timing belt and cranked car to insure it wasn't broken and indeed intact and moving properly.

3) Replaced Crank shaft sensor - didn't help.

4) New battery - Old one needed booster cables.

5&6) Replaced fuel pump - wasn't priming before, ended up being blue FP relay(driver side). Replaced as well.

7) Replaced main relay(engine bay #3) - used from scrap yard.

8) Checked for spark, all coils good- Replaced all sparks with properly gapped new plugs. - Nothing.

9) At this point I began to test all fuses after new relays and sparks. Fuse #8 in the driver side compartment doesn't have power with key in on position.

What would cause this? Is the the true cause of my new cars no start issue? The fuse is fine even replaced with new. No power to test light when touching terminal contacts. Every other fuse is fine.

is it the back up Main FI Relay causing this? Or is there a wiring diagram where I can trace the fuse port back to a wire/relay?
Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 7:58 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
We need to back up and find out if we have spark at the plugs. You said you tested the coils and they are good but after changing the plugs it didn't work.

So do you have spark at the plugs? Pull one out and hold it against the block and crank the engine to see if it sparks.

https://youtu.be/dCjmRL3p4Cs

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If we have no spark then we can start tracking it through the system to see what is missing but since you have coil on plug we are going to have the check the voltage on the two wires at the coil. I suspect you will have 12 volts but the control wire will not be firing the coils. If that is the case then the ECM may be the issue based on what you have replaced so far. But at least we will know why you are not getting spark at that point. However, if you don't have 12 volts on the black white wire then we have a fuse 13 or coil relay issue.

Below is the wiring diagram that will help with this.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
CASSG8T
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Let me clarify. I checked the spark - it was there but the plugs were terrible, I replaced the plugs with new properly gapped ones. Still have spark. Still crank no start.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
CASSG8T
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Running a compression test tomorrow to rule out, head gasket, Timing belt skipping teeth or tensioner failure.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 5:22 PM
Tiny
CASSG8T
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  • 4 POSTS
@Kenny For the PCM/ECM being the issue, wouldn't my scanner have issues connecting?It doesn't - I have no codes.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. If you have spark and starter fluid does not get the engine to start then compression would be the next logical thing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

As for having codes, not necessarily. It may set some but depending on the failure it may not know that it is causing the issue so it doesn't set the codes.

Let us know what the compression is and we an go from there. Thanks
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Thursday, April 1st, 2021 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
CASSIE GAETE
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  • 12 POSTS
Did a compression test in the front 3 cylinders tested at 0. Uh-oh. Not even a twitch of PSI.

Timing belt seems to turn, could of lost a few teeth or tensioner failure.

If the valves are intact? Won’t know until she’s open.

Currently regretting this car buy.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
CASSIE GAETE
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Btw I am OP. Facebook log in was easier.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Thanks for the update. You're right. Not good.

The belt may be turning but if there is no pressure at all in any of the cylinders then it is at best out of time as there would be a slight blip in compression as the valve overlap and would be closed momentarily.

However, if it is not even moving then I would think there is a valve open at all times or major damage causing compression to escape. Clearly you have to open it up so let us know what you find. Thanks again.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
CASSIE GAETE
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Opening the engine seemed like too much for me to tackle so I sold the car to pedal. I recouped my $1,300.00 spent and pressed on.
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Wednesday, May 26th, 2021 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Totally understand and good job getting that amount for it. Thanks for the update. Thanks for using 2CarPros. Please come back in the future.
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Thursday, May 27th, 2021 AT 8:15 PM

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