Sorry folks for the delayed updates. As per the cooling issue, I purchased a Volvo OEM Bosch Cooling Fan Assembly from Europarts. Com at the right time to get it at 60% lower than their original price. I also purchased an OEM Thermostat Assembly which included the WTS, gasket and thermostat unit from Amazon. I saved the original thermostat and housing as spares. Checked the aftermarket WTS I original installed in 2017 using the stove top method with Water/Low Flame, Fluke Digital Multi-meter and an Infrared IR Thermometer Meter. The sensor is rated at 90C. /194F. With my water at 194F the WTS gave the following results; 0.23-2K meter setting on the Multimeter and maxed out at 210F. - 0.29-2K meter setting. Sorry I really do not have automotive Multimeter(s) I have industrial grade expensive Commercial Grade Electronic Testing Equip, but by some recalculating the sensor is not functioning properly, a dud, lessons learned. Trying to save a buck or two cost me time and additional cost. The positive of it all is the cooling fan assembly I pulled/purchased from the salvage yard two months prior is in excellent working and cosmetic condition, but it was not design for a Volvo S80 T6, I pulled it from a 2005 Volvo S60 five cylinder non-turbo. Anyone needs a Volvo OEM S60 cooling fan assembly cheap then they are in luck, LoL.
The Installation went great. Completed as follows:
†Re-flushed cooling system with distilled water and Liquid Moly 2051 Radiator Cleaner - 300ml as directed. Part#: 2051
†Replaced/installed new radiator hoses †Upper/Part#: VOL-8623779... Lower/Part #: VOL-30680915
†Installed new Volvo OEM complete thermostat housing assembly Part#: VOL-8636779
†Installed new Volvo OEM complete cooling fan assembly. Part#: VOL- 8649821
†Vacuumed down the entire system using my complete refrigeration recovery equipment. Very, very important to remember to using a refrigeration recovery tank or similar to catch coolant vapors or liquid solids before they reach and destroy your expensive vacuum pump. I have pictures if anyone's interested in “how it works”.
The start up:
Fired up the engine and immediate new discoveries, engine codes: P0301, P0302, and P0303 - Misfire cylinders 1-3. Engine vibration and live data on code reader verified accuracy. Ordered six New Bosch OEM coil packs (purchased as a complete kit-cheaper). Three days later installed and “Perfecto” back to smooth sailing.
One week ago:
My daughter and I heard a noise nobody wants to hear when I started the car. The dreaded sound of an empty aluminum can with several pull tabs rattling under your car. No its was not a midget under the car rattling a can, It is the beloved sound of your honeycomb baffle in your catalytic converter disintegrating, separation, collapsed, bye, bye.
Recently:
Loss of power in acceleration, pedal to the floor and struggles low grade hills, periodically code P0299. Drive a daily commute three hours (1.5 each direction) Monday through Friday Highway travel: 97% Residential: 3%. Check engine with P0240 and P0299 typically after exiting highways.
The following readings are listed from using Infrared IR Thermometer Meter and an AUTEL AL619 ABS SRS OBDII Diagnostic Tool Multi-Live Data Meter.
Temperatures:
†480F-Temperatures prior (top of catalytic converter).
†Fluctuating lower temperature (after catalytic converter).
†280F-at the “Y” pipe/front muffler and after front muffler.
Voltage:
†Prior to catalytic converter O2SB1 & B2...0.100 to.700 Volts - gradually (searching/normal)
†Live data-voltage after the catalytic converter- SB1S2 & SB2S2...0.063 to 0.100 mA.
I do believe a properly working catalytic converter should be steady at.5 volts after the catalytic converter? Am I correct?
Installed/repaired/cleaned/maintain myself in less than six to twelve months:
NGK Indr. Plugs, Bosch coil packs, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, all new air filtration filters, vacuum test/leaks. Engine flush, gas filter, solenoid bypass valve, EVAP valve, Castrol 5W 30 full synthetic, premium synthetic oil filters x 2-3 a year, etc.
Wednesday, July 18th, 2018 AT 4:03 PM