Connecting Master brake cylinder to proportioning valve

Hi again, now I have routed the lines from master cylinder to prop valve the way I believe it should be. I am bleeding the system now. Can you confirm that this is right, as you said last time? It is a 1987 Camaro with disks at front and drums at rear.
Thanks,
Knut Smilden

This is not the valve we have. We have the original GM third gen F body valve. What concerns me is if I got the rear brakes plumbing correct. I think that the feed from the master cylinder should go to the port on the underside of the valve, then it gives pressure to the seal on the small piston and spring inside the valve, forcing the piston to move and let the brake fluid pass to the out port on the top, and to the rear brakes. If the feed from master cylinder goes in on top, the pressure comes on the wrong side of the seal, and will not have any effect on the piston and spring.
How do you see it?

I am sending you a video I made. Prop valve plumbing.
Knut

Here is a video I made: Brake lines from master cylinder to prop valve.

Yes, the one on your picture fits our car, but EE use the original.

I do not know if you see what I mean. I have got the front.
But I think the pressure to the rear brakes on the piston and seal should come from the correct side of the seal, where the lip is. And that is in the port on the underside.

Knut

On my video, the red piston, there is a black seal with the lip facing to the right. There is a small hole just under there from the brake line, and on top, the hole to the out port and brake line is to the left of the seal. So when applying pressure, the brake fluid will press the seal and piston to the left and let the fluid pass and go up to the outport and to the rear brakes.
That is the way I see it in my head.
Knut

Okay. Anyway, brakes are bled now. It is getting close to bedtime here. I will try the brakes tomorrow and let you know the outcome.

Best,
Knut

Hi Roy.

The car is in a garage with the rear end on jack stands. It is stripped for paint, and I cannot drive it outside for a brake test. It is maybe not ideal to test the brakes in this condition (with the wheels in the air). I have got a pedal now, but rear wheels are hard to stop completely. The car has a limited slip differential, and I think the rear wheels go separate ways when they are not on the ground. Maybe it is harder to make them stop then. Just a thought I have.
And when I brake, and the rear wheels turn, there is this " click clack" noise. Sounds like the brake shoes are moving around in there. Maybe (I think) because one wheel is going revers way, and not having the primary shoe initiate braking.
Do you have any thoughts on that?

Knut