Coil pack wiring diagram needed?

If the last Oxygen sensor (4th) caused the fuse to stop blowing, you should check the resistance of the heater circuit internal to that sensor. I'm not sure which one you mean by 4th, but if the heater internal to the sensor shorted out, it will blow that fuse. Have you replaced the fuse with leaving that oxygen sensor unplugged and it still will not start? I know the chance of the Oxygen sensor heater being shorted out after all this does sound like a fair chance, but I have seen stranger things happen.
As for the power feeds to the coils and injectors, that shouldn't matter, but the control wires will matter. If the plugs are wet and fouled out with fuel, the injectors are working, the question is do you have spark.
So, we can have you check that oxygen sensor that you unplugged for a short, either in the sensor or in the harness with a test light. If you want to do that let me know,
But if you're going to test for spark at each coil, I think you should unplug the Injectors, so the cylinders don't get washed out with any more fuel. You can pull the SNSR 3 fuse 10amp which powers the injectors or unplug each one.
And then check for spark at each coil, I know this vehicle is very difficult to work on because they colored all the wires the same, that's makes this whole thing much harder. If the cylinders got washer out with a lot of fuel, that also lowers compression because the oil get washed off the cylinder walls, and I'm sure your oil is diluted with gas now as well.

So, you check for spark, and we can concentrate on getting the vehicle started first or, we can check the oxygen sensor and try to find that short, if that fuse is not blowing, you can leave the sensor unplugged for now. Just let me know what you want to do first.

Yes, leave the last Oxygen sensor unplugged for now if that's popping the fuse. We'll deal with that last. You don't need that to start the vehicle.
To check for spark, pull the coil out, keep it plugged into the harness. And put either a spark plug or spark tester into the coil. I have a bad feeling that if the wiring was wired backwards to any of the coils or to the injectors, meaning that power was put directly to the control side on the component, it might have burned up the ECM driver for those coils or injectors. It's the same as a short circuit directly to the ECM driver if they were wired backwards.
Here's a guide for checking spark. If you have no spark on some coils, we'll check for any drivers that are shorted out.
The ignition coils and injectors are driven by a 3-pin device called a power mosfet or transistor. It switches the ground side of the component off and on to fire the coil or injector. When they get shorted out, what usually happens is the mosfet will get fried and be shorted directly to ground permanently. If the coils feel hot to the touch and there is no spark, that's not a good sign, but check for spark first. I'll draw a little diagram to show how the ECM drivers work and can burn out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Well, each coil has 2 wires on each connector, looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle cylinder 2 is on your left and cylinder 6 on your right, 4 in the middle. And you should be able to identify the power wire by just turning the key on and check it with a multimeter with the other meter lead on battery negative. Only 1 wire on each coil will have 12volts, the other wire is the control wire. Pin 1 is the power feed; the original wires would have been pink.
Same with the Injectors, one wire should have 12 volts with the key On. Pin 2, orange wire was the original power feed color for the injectors. But verify them with a multimeter to be sure they are correct. You may have not fried the ECM drivers since you still had a load in the electrical circuit. The coil or injector would be a load in the circuit. How the Oxygen sensor shorted out, that is to be seen yet.

So, if you had a blinking check engine light, that's a Catalytic Converter damaging misfire alert. Do you know if a code was set for the reduced power mode? If you were resetting the ECM for it, then there was a code setting every certain number of drive cycles. Are you not able to reach the back 3 coils to check spark with pulling the intake plenum off? You can check for the ECMs control of injectors by hooking a test light to battery positive and probing the connectors control wire. And you should get a dim flashing test light, that's the ECM turning on and off the injectors ground side.
As for fuel pressure it looks like there is an access panel in the trunk, I'll put the instructions for a fuel pressure test, although with this fuel pump relay being on the same circuit that was blowing the oxygen sensor fuse, you should check the rest of the fuses in the engine compartment fuse block, since we don't know yet what is causing that fuse to pop. To do this fuel pressure test you have to T into the line, but when you turn the key to just the on position you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds to prime the system. Maybe have the trunk open and get to the access panel and have someone else turn the key On and see if you hear the pump, from the top of the access panel you should hear the pump with no problem, they are pretty loud. It looks to be under the carpet in the trunk area. I will see if I can locate what number this F/PUMP fuse 20amp is in the fuse block. I'm wondering if there are more chewed wires, it sounds like the rodent really went to town on the wiring harness.
Fuse #8 is the Fuel pump fuse that feeds the load side of the Fuel pump relay
Ok in diagram 7 are the fusible links, I'm not sure why they call them fusible links because this is not the conventional style fusible link at all. But I also don't know why they colored all the wires the same color either, seems like anything goes with Hyundai in this case.

If you try to send a reply and they don't go through, we have a filter on the website that is a spam filter, so if you were using certain keyboard symbols, the post might get blocked, just so you know, it's not us ignoring your posts or anything like that.

Are you missing spark at the back 3 coils and also the front 3 at the same time? Unfortunately, the power feed for the coils, the injectors, oxygen sensor heaters, and fuel pump relay all come through the ECU RLY Fusible Link 30amp. Then through the Engine Control Relay, and then branch off from there. So, you might want to check more around that fuse panel, If the harness is wrapped up in conduit and taped up, I don't think you'll find chewed wires inside there, I guess depending on the rodent size, but they will usually chew up the entire thing. I need to restart my page here, having some technical issues.

So, depending on if you're missing power on the back coils or control, it will direct where you look next, being that the PCM is located next to the Air intake tube and air filter box, you might want to just pull all that out of the way. Looks like the PCM harness runs under the air tube, and since you have no spark back there, I'd be concerned with hydro locking those back cylinders and having to pull that intake off so many times, you probably just want to go through the entire engine harness. Checking the engine and chassis grounds. These Grounds in the 2nd diagram 109, 110 all go to the PCM, there is 5 there, all Black wires. If the rear coils wires are still there, then there is most likely going to be issues from that engine Junction Block (fuse block) to the PCM. The wiring in this vehicle is so different from the rear to the front of the engine.
The back 3 coils run through a bulk connector CC101 for the control wires and a single power wire. Whereas the front coils have no connectors at all in series.

The CC101 is supposed to be a 4pin connector that feeds power to the rear coils on Pin 1 Pink Wire and the other 3 pins are the control wires for those coils. Should be White, Black and Yellow wires.
The CC102 bulk connector feeds the rear injectors. So, you could even just unplug that CC101 and check for resistance from the pink wire, to each of the other 3 wires one at a time, and you should be measuring the resistance of each rear coil, instead of having to pull the intake, then if anything is missing, you'll know what wires you're chasing.

Okay, no worries, so sorry to hear about your father, I lost mine at the end of 09, so I understand how it goes, I hope he gets better.
As for C101, was the connector corroded inside or pin fitment issue? I'm really looking forward to hearing the vehicle started. It's been a tough diag when those little rodents are hungry. Of course, service info did not make things any easier, I have no idea why they would make all the wires the same color. Engineers think nothing ever goes wrong, I guess. But let me know how things make out, and if you need any more help. Take your time too, we're not going anywhere.

Okay, since we are obviously seeing the rodent did more damage than we first thought, if you can't get a used wiring harness or sections of it anywhere local, you can cut out those connectors and bypass them by just going wire by wire with heat shrink connectors. I will look up the cam and crank sensor wiring diagrams, so you have them. We are also going to have to find something you can put in the engine compartment to keep these critters out, or this will happen again. Do you have enough wire left from C101 and 102 that you can cut and bypass the connectors, I don't think the tape holding them together will last long enough.
Maybe at the beginning of this, we should have had you buy a whole used engine harness. I'll pull up the other diagrams though. Can you think of any other diagrams you might need?

There are also wires going to the oil control valves on each cylinder head that are for controlling the variable valve timing, and of course on both cylinder heads they are a pink wire and a white wire, on the left cylinder head, which I believe is the front head, the white wire changes over to blue at Connector CC103, all 4 wires for the VVT control valves run through the CC103, I found CC103, the C105-1, 2 connectors are right at each cam sensor.

Every fuse has power on both sides, none are blown. Do you have a scan tool to check for codes? And is the Check Engine light coming on when you turn the key on for a few seconds, I've probably asked you that already. Just have so many vehicles at once right now.
If the spark plugs are coming out wet with fuel, and you're getting spark to each coil, then the timing of the injectors and coils would be my concern, with the way they colored these coils and injector wires, I'd be concerned that they are firing possibly at the wrong time. It takes fuel, spark and compression to make an engine run. You seem to have all those, and it's not even trying to start.

I looked back over your posts and 5 posts up where you were mentioning Fuse 19 and that #6 coil getting hot, you said you saw a puff of smoke. Where was that coming from? Fuse 19 or the #6 coil. I'm wondering if that burnt something inside the PCM. The #6 coil control wire pins out of the PCM right next to the Cam sensor pins as well as the TPS power feed. Scan it again for codes and let me see all of them. These coils don't have any protection from a short circuit, if a coil was getting that hot, that means there was a lot of current flow. You said you spliced the shield wire to the coil wire? The shield wire is meant to just cover over the ignition coil wire, not be connected to it in any way at all. It's a shield wire that runs directly to ground through a PCM pin ground. It's only for Radio Frequency interference from the ignition coils so they don't feed back into other sensor signals, which might be why the coil got so hot, there was current flow running directly to ground through the PCM. Was the shielded wire spliced into the coil control wire or power feed to the coil? But even if the #6 coil driver is burned out, the car should still start,
Now if the black shield wire is in any way spliced into anything, any coils, or injectors, that will cause and issue with the crank and cam sensors, those sensors use the same black shield wire over them to prevent interference from the ignition coils or injectors. Mostly the coils, if the coils are firing and any high voltage spikes are running through that shielded wire, it will absolutely interfere with the crankshaft or camshaft position signal. The 2nd diagram is my crude illustration of interference on a crankshaft position sensor signal from an ignition coil. Again, sorry for the long post.

If you want, you can send me the PCM and I can check the internal circuit board for any short or burned traces, If the #6 coil driver is burned out, I have mosfets that I can swap over on the board and solder any burned circuit traces. Considering how much work and time you have put into this already, I would have no problem taking a look at the PCM and repairing it for you if possible. And you can go through the wiring while I have the computer. I work with transistors and mosfets on all my other projects and circuit board builds. Just leave your email here, and I'll email you my info.

Sure, I'd be happy to take a look at it for you. I know this whole experience has been very frustrating. Just leave your email address and Ill contact you with a mailing address you can send it to. If the circuit board is burned up, I'll let you know right away.