Coil pack wiring diagram needed?

Hello sorry to hear about that, so you need cylinders 2, 4, 6 on the front cylinder head. There are 2 wire coils, correct? Are all the wires for the front coils the same color?
I have never seen this ever before, this is the OEM manufacturer wiring diagram for the ignition coils, and it shows the front 3 coils 2, 4, 6, have the same color power feed wire (pink) and the same color control wire (green). But the back 3 ignition coils have different color control wires which is what is expected. Can you confirm these front 3 coils for me? If they have different colors on the front coils, then this is an error and a bad one at that. It is showing the same on aftermarket diagrams.

I was able to trace each ignition coil wiring back to the ECM connector, so I can post the wiring for that, if it is indeed the same color wires for each coil on the front bank of cylinders. If there is a section of green wire for each of the front coils, you can unplug one of the ECM connectors and using a multimeter set on Ohms setting, you can check for continuity to the correct ignition coil from each of the 3 ECM connector pins if needed. I'm not sure how much wire is left over to work with. I hope this is somewhat helpful. I have never seen ignition coils with all the same wire colors like this before.

They might be discolored due to age, but I assume there are sections going to each coil that have 2 wires left, and is there any wiring left on the coils harness plugs? I'm really surprised that even the manufacturers wiring diagrams are showing the same colors. But there should be 2 wires going to each coil, one will be Green and the other is the power feed coming in.
If you have a multimeter and have the sections of wires striped back somewhat you can check for 12volts with the key On. But my concern here is making sure that each coil has the correct control wire going to it. It's extremely important, or the coil will fire at the wrong time. We don't want cylinder 2 firing when cylinder 4 should be. Hence the reason for each control wire being a different color. Like the back coils have. Take a picture of the mess if you can so I have a better idea of what you're dealing with. We want to get this right the first time for you.

Okay, sounds good. If you need the injector wiring diagrams just mention it. Hope the repair goes well. If you're using crimp connectors, get the ones that have heat shrink on them to seal out any moisture.

These are the diagrams for the Fuel Injectors, unfortunately it looks like Hyundai did the same thing on the 3 front injectors with the wiring colors. They are all the same, Power feeds look to be orange (will have 12-volts with the key on), and each control wire at ECM looks to be Grey with a Black stripe. So, if you can identify the control wire to each injector by length like you did for the coils, that's what you will have to do here. Or we will have to check continuity from each wire to the ECM connector to Identify each cylinder. Let me know if you need that or if you are ok with these diagrams.

Okay, one thing to be careful about, if the engine stopped cranking, do not try to force it, if the wiring for the fuel injectors was wired up incorrect and there are fuel injector(s) staying on they can hydro-lock the cylinders with fuel, That can break connecting rods, pistons, and serious internal damage. It's better to take the time and get the correct wires to the correct ECM pins that they need to be at. The flashing check engine light means you have cylinder misfires that are bad enough to damage the Catalytic Converter. So, let's take the time and get every right before you try to start the engine again. At this point I would recommend you take the spark plugs out of all the cylinders. Unplug the ignition coils and injectors and crank the engine over to get any fuel out of the cylinders that might be in there. Just put some paper towel over the spark plug holes, because if they are filled with gas, it's going to come out all over the place.
I can imagine what you are dealing with, I've seen it before. Rodents chew the wires because they like the taste of the chemical in the wire insulation. They will chew the whole thing if given enough time.
So, let's Ohm out each wire to the ECM connector so they are all going to the correct control pins.
Will go step by step, Starting with the front ignition coils. But clear out the cylinders, and make sure the engine will still turn over. It will crank over fast without any spark plugs in it because there won't be any compression, so expect that. Also remember that with that fuel being sprayed into the cylinders and it not starting, it's going to wash the cylinder walls and cause low compression until fresh oil is able to get back up where it needs to be. Something to keep in mind if you want to run any compression tests. You will need to change the oil after all this as well, it will be contaminated with fuel heavily by now.
I'll go through the wiring diagrams and find the ECM connector pinouts that we'll need. So besides clearing out the cylinders, try not to crank the engine over much anymore until we get things straightened out.

If you're getting codes for other components, we will deal with them after we get the coils and injectors fixed up. You can post the code numbers here if you want, I'll look up the definitions myself.

Here are the ECM location and connector C 144-2 which is the connector you'll need to access to Ohm out each control wire. Diagram 6 is the Front Ignition Coils. Diagrams 7, 8 are the pinout for C 144-2 ECM connector. Everything is color coded to its front bank cylinders.
Diagram 10 is the C 144-2 connector with each pin labelled to its component.
Hopefully this is easy enough to see which wires should show continuity to the correct ECM pin.
Diagram 13 is the Fuel Injectors with their corresponding wire to ECM pin, same color coded to each cylinder.
Make sure the key is off before disconnecting the ECM connector. And unplugged before testing. Hopefully this section goes okay for you.

Okay, no worries, take your time, hope all is ok with your family. Don't worry, we'll be here when you get back to it. If you need any help with Ohming out the correct wires just ask. I don't want to see any ECM drivers to get burned out. Chat soon.

You are talking about the Capacitors that are on the ends of each of the power feeds for the Ignition coils, yes you need them, because of the high voltage the ignition coils make, those capacitors act as a filter of buffer for the voltage, otherwise you will have high frequency interference with other circuits in the vehicle. Any voltage spikes get absorbed by the capacitors and the spikes won't affect other sensors. If sensors such as the vehicle speed sensor, crank position sensor, cam sensors, etc, receive voltage spikes from the ignition coils the ECM will read those spikes as incorrect data from the sensors. Since the ECM watches the rising edge or falling edge of a sensor's voltage square wave signal, any interference will be interpreted as one of those edges the computer reads.
These are some examples of a square wave voltage signal. This is not from an ignition coil, but the same effect applies. Notice in the 2nd scope captures all the interference.
From a computer's standpoint, the spikes in the middle of the pulled down section could possibly be read as a signal, and that's why capacitors are used to filter out and clean up any weird voltage in the circuits. Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to explain why they are there.
Also, I hope things get better for your family too, I know you were going through a difficult time before.

Where is this Fuse 19 located? In the engine compartment fuse box? And does it have any other label than 19? And what amperage is it? I don't see any fuses with that label going to the injectors, the injector fuse is the SNSR 3 Fuse 10amp feeding the injectors,

The fuse panel in the engine compartment has Fuse 19 (15amp) Oxygen sensor, Fuel Pump Relay

This is the Fuse 19 circuit, its label is SNSR 2 15amp, and it feeds the Fuel pump relay control side, but also feeds the Heater circuits for all 4 Oxygen sensors. So, I think you have another circuit that is either been chewed on, or there is a shorted heater circuit in one of the oxygen sensors,
You can test this really quickly by unplugging all 4 oxygen sensors and seeing if the fuse still pops. If so then there is most likely another wire that has been chewed under the fuse block in the engine compartment, it should be a blue wire coming from the fuse block going out to the oxygen sensors.

If that fuse is blowing, yes, it's the power supply to the control side of the relay, the ECM grounds the other side to activate the relay, so that's why you don't have any fuel pressure.
What you can do if you don't find a chewed wire, is pull the fuel pump relay out for now, unplug all the oxygen sensors. And using a test light at the fuse location, hook the test light to battery negative and find out which side of the fuse is the power feed side, and the other side goes out to the oxygen sensors. Once you know which fuse pin is the power, then you can hook the test light to battery positive and touch the other fuse pin, the side that is shorted to ground. The test light should now light up because of the short. With the oxygen sensors unplugged, the only path to ground now is the shorted wire. So, you can do a wiggle test and find the short much faster this way, I can draw up a quick diagram of this test if you want it. Or you can use a multimeter hooked to battery negative with the fuse out and do the same test, it's just much easier to watch the test light flicker when you move the wiring harness near the short.