Clutch Master cylinder bleed valve location needed

I'm not one who likes to make myself look foolish however it's a learning process right. The reason my clutch wouldn't bleed was because inside the black hose that connects the master clutch cylinder to the reserve was a little rubber plug and it was blocking the flow. XD live and learn. First timer. Thank you fellas I appreciate your timely response and diagrams

Transmission problem
1997 Chevy Cavalier 2.4 LITER 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 163K miles

PLEASE HELP! THEY PUT ATF IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION, CLUTCH RESERVOIR< NEGLIGIENCE?

My girlfriend was driving her car one morning of the first snow fall, supposedly she hit a bump, she was in 4th going to 3rd gear, the clutch or tranny locked up, she's in the middle of the road, ready to get plowed by a semi, she calls me on the phone, crying, saying she cant get her car in gear, so I rush 40 miles out of the way going 85 mph, on the first snowfall. I get to where she's at, theres a cop there, I get in her car repeatedly push on the clutch to throw it into first gear to open the lane of traffic, it finally engaged into first, I had it towed to my work. The beginning of the next week, I have the mechanics look at it, they automatically say after I tell my girlfriend's account of this mishap, " There was a big bang, the exhaust fell off, well from what I hear the mechanic thinks."You're better off getting a used tranny" They didn't even take the tranny apart, they stuck there finger in a hole by the bell housing and that's about it. I told them no, we weren't going to put in a tranny period. So they take the clutch out, its worn down carbon black dust, but not in pieces. Got a clutch kit for around $210.00 came with a slave cylinder, throwout bearing and the clutch disks and everything. When they put the new clutch in, the two mechanics were arguing saying that you could put ATF in instead of clutch fluid or gear oil. I heard the certified mechanic say it takes a special fluid not. ATF or gear oil. When everything was put back together, I asked the mechanic if I could go on a test drive. I get in the car, and right after we start moving there's noise on the drivers side left front wheel, i'm wondering if its the axle, two new axle seals were put in, maybe the cv shaft didn't get pushed all the way through. I asked the mechanic, about the noise, "it would wear off", I had to pay for the flywheel to planed before all this. Why would this be happening, we go for 2 1/2 miles all through the gears, couple of stop signs, and all of a sudden it chugged, and locked up, we got it towed now they say its the tranny, I heard of nighmare issues of unsuspecting customers not at the place where I work, but maybe somebody intentionally put metal shavings down through a dipstick tube, or axle seal opening? We put it back on the lift the mechanic put ATF fluid in from the top of the tranny to see if there was any metal shavings coming out, none. Now the mechanic guy wants us to buy a used tranny. Am I being screwed? They never took it apart to see if anything is wrong, I allready owe $480 bucks for the clutch and labor for my girlfriends car.? PLEASE HELP! THEY PUT ATF IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION, CLUTCH RESERVOIR, NEGLIGIENCE?

My tranny was havig some problems too and I knew it wasnt the clutch but I had takent it to a shop and they ran it through some tests and said it was fine but needed a lil attention to the synchros and a week later I started having worse problems and I thought it could be teh cv axles but then I replaced both and the problem continued after replacing the axles and fluid back I took it for a test drive and it made a loud clunk and that was it it hasnt went into gear sense

Hello I have a 1997 chevy cavalier 2.4l 5speed. I recently discovered my clutch going bad so I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and while I was in there I replaced the slave cylinder. I tried to bleed the clutch and it wouldnt bleed so I then proceded to buy and install a new master cylinder just to be safe. The problem is when I try to bleed the clutch it will not hold pressure on the pedal, I cant even shift it. I have tried every method I can find on bleeding the clutch but to no avail. I am sure the clutch is in correct (it tells you what way) everything is tight I have double checked. And there are no leaks anywhere not even from the slave cylinder, does anyone have any suggestions?

Okay sorry took so long been busy with work turns out when I received the clutch it had "flywheel side" stamped on the one side turns out it says that on both sides, so clutch was in backwards and the problem is solved thank you everyone for the help.

So my cars slave cylinder was just fixed and now I am having the same problem but this time its leaking from the plastic part between the transmission and hydraulic clutch line. I have no idea what the part is called or how to replace it, all I know is that it has the clutch bleeder valve on it. Is this part of the slave cylinder and will I have to pay another $800 to get it all fixed again or is this something I can do myself without having to drop the transmission?

I have just replaced my clutch master cylinder, bled the lines of air, and looked for leaks in the lines and seals, but the lines still aren't holding pressure. When I bleed the lines the clutch goes back to how it should feel (slight pressure until I hit the sweet spot, and then about 1.5" of travel to the floor. It does great for about a block or two and then the clutch pedal isn't returning and the gears are difficult to shift into. Normally the shifter just goes into the respective gears with little to no effort but when this occurs the shifter then needs to be forced (as I slap my own hand for doing this) into but not out of gear. I can feel as the clutch pedal slowly loses pressure from the master cylinder for the first 4-5 times I push it in, but after that it just instantly goes out. Also, I noticed as the clutch is pumped to bleed the lines, there is a spurt of fluid from the reservoir valve back into the reservoir so forcefully that it shoots out of it like a fountain about 2-3 inches. Is this just a bad master cylinder or is there a mechnism that should stop this from happening? I've read on forums that there is a seal in the master cylinder that is being bypassed when this happens, but when I cracked open the old one (pulled the piston out of the master) it appeared as follows: the fluid enters from in MC fluid intake valve (outside of the piston wall) and then goes into the piston wall and out to the line leading to the slave cylinder. I saw no remnents of a seal inside of the MC. Unless the seal is part of the piston and is only supposed to work one way, in which case I'm lost on that one.

So to recap: remove old MC, check; attach new MC to SC line, check; install new MC, check; attach MC reservoir tank, check; bleed lines, check; look for leaks along all lines, connections, and external seals, check; original problem still exists, check :( What should my next course of action be?

Well, the fluid running back into the reservoir from the MC is where I am now thinking it was just a bad seal on the new MC. The seal could have dry rotted from sitting on a warehouse shelf for a couple of years before going to the store. After talking to several mechanic friends they all seem to agree. The slave cylinder on this car is on top of the transmission so the lift is not needed. The slave cylinder was checked by one of these friends since my original post and is fine. Thanks for the help and concern, just got a little confused before posting and tried to back it out before it posted. I am trying another MC today and if this same problem occurs I will have the guys at the store replace the seal, as I am not waiting two more days for a replacement part again.

Actually, it got really bad after the new MC got put in. It ran fine for about 5-6 hrs and then the save went out. I thought that the SC was leaking just inside the trans. Well, I was part right. The SC on these is actually in two parts. The first part in the chain is the external SC that runs about $25 at the part store. Well, the bad side was the part inside the trans. It's actually the concentric actuator SC and throwout bearing assembly, all one part! That part was also about $330 and had to drop the trans to get to it! I was upset. I had never heard of this before! Who's dumb@$$ idea was it to do away with the clutch fork and put the important part of the SC inside the trans! It took myself, my wife's stepfather (ex-motor pool mechanic) and my dad (mechanic of 46 years!) Almost 12 hrs just to drop the transmission. I was in luck that my dad had all of the specialty tools needed for this job. The only ways to get the transmission out was to either unbolt the front end frame, or pull it from the top. As none of us wanted to unhook all that was needed to pull from the top, we went from the bottom. I've got to say, if this is the best they can design a car, then they need a few new designers. The only part of the frame that was in the way, was a small piece that juts off of the front driver side, that was hooked to, or supporting NOTHING! The other side of it was hooked to the transmission support, but that side had no structural need other than to get in the way of dropping the transmission without unbolting the entire front end frame! Needless to say, we only dropped it far enough to get to the SC/Throwout bearing/retarded part. The only reason these cars are designed the way they are now, is to make part stores and specialty shops money! Granted these people need to eat too, but for those that just don't have the money for 18hrs labor ($75/hr) and $500 in parts (you do the math and see if you could afford that in one go), that's $1850 that I couldn't get extra in 2 months, and can't go that long without a car! If I can, I will try to get a picture the frame to post. This is getting ridiculous! Anyway, thanks for all of the help, and the preminition early on about the SC (it didn't go out until the ne MC practically blew it apart in there), and wish you the best of luck.

I have the exact same problem to the T.
Currently I have a new MC and new line and it is still leaking fluid, from what seems to be that hole in the bottom of the tranny that you can see the gears. Any other advice before I take on this task?