Car turns over but will not start

Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Unlike GM fuel pumps, Chrysler pumps rarely quit while they're running so that should be the last part to throw at it. The most common failure would be the camshaft position sensor. Next would be the crankshaft position sensor. Both of those can become heat-sensitive and will start to work again after they cool down.

Usually there will be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer. Having those codes read is the starting point.

Caradiodoc

Doesn't matter. Per government mandate, the light must turn on when the detected problem, (and fault code), could adversely affect tail pipe emissions. Can't have excessive emissions if the engine doesn't run.

Specific conditions must be met to set a fault code. Those conditions usually include that certain other codes are not set in memory. Here's just one example. The Engine Computer needs a strategy to determine if the speed sensor is not working vs. The car is standing still. It knows the car is coasting by a high vacuum reading for a lengthy period of time. You can snap the throttle open real quickly. When it snaps closed, the vacuum will go very high, but just for a second or two. The only way to get the high vacuum reading for a longer period of time is by coasting. If the computer knows you're coasting, it knows you're moving so it had better be getting a reading from the speed sensor. If there is a stored fault code related to the MAP sensor, there is almost no chance it will store a code for the speed sensor.

Fault codes also have levels of severity. The lowest level codes never cause the Check Engine light to turn on. Number 17, "Engine running cold too long" is a perfect example. Every Chrysler product up north will have that code all through the winter because when started and left to idle, the engine will not get up to normal temperature within 6 minutes.

For a slightly more severe problem, the light will turn on only while the problem is occurring and it will go off when the problem goes away. The code will stay in memory. Still more severe and the light will "latch" on. Even if the problem goes away, the light will stay on until the ignition switch is cycled off and back on. Then the light will stay off until the problem occurs again.

Really severe and the light will always be on whenever the engine is running even if the problem hasn't occurred recently. In the worst case, the light will be flashing. That means "bail out"! Excessive raw fuel is entering the catalytic converter causing it to overheat. It will be permanently damaged if you don't stop the engine.

When you have a no-start condition, have the fault codes read first. If there are no related codes, use the "live sensor data" screen to view the cam and crank sensors. Aftermarket scanners usually read "yes" when pulses are being generated by that sensor. Chrysler scanners read "present" when the pulses are showing up. If you find the pulses missing from either sensor, the automatic shutdown relay won't turn on and the engine won't run.

Caradiodoc

Is it cranking over and will not start or just won't crank at all/nothing when key is turn to cranking position?

Okay. Have you checked to make sure the fuel pressure is within spec? Are you getting a good hot blue snapping spark? Have you checked to see if the injectors are getting power? Will the engine start with starting fluid?

Hi:
Check for spark to the plugs and fuel to the engine. One will most likely be missing. Let me know what you find.
Joe

Start by seeing if it will run for a few seconds with starting fluid. Also listen for the hum of the fuel pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If it runs on starting fluid, it may be in anti-theft mode. Does your car have the factory-installed anti-theft system?

Caradiodoc

You need to approach this in a different way to get a clearer picture of what is happening.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

If you want me to help, we have to do this my way.

Do you have injector pulse?

If not, do you have power supply to one side during the first 2 seconds of key on and when cranking?