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1994 S-10 Blazer vibration 2WD v 6 4.3 auto

Tiny
DHSMITH06
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER
I have had some of the front end redone- tie rod ends, lower ball joints and 1 or 2 other things. It did fine right after that but then started a vibration I cant locate. Tried alignment, balance and then just replaced all tires, all new shocks, alignment and still have. Really noticable at 60-70mph but u can tell its there even a bit slower. Its not felt in the steering wheel but more as "the whole truck" vibration. Uppper ball joints are original but mech said they werent bad when lower ones replaced and that other front end joints were ok as were told to replace anything that need it (that was a bold statement to make to a mech shop lol).
Any help would be GREAT!
my next thought was U joints in drive shaft?
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Wednesday, February 7th, 2007 AT 8:19 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
FFAS23
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Don't know if this will help but I had a similiar problem as the one your are describing on one of my vehicles years ago. The vibration was caused by a bad bushing in the back tailshaft of the transmission where the driveshaft connects to the trans. You may want to have that checked out. The brass bushing was worned causing some play back there which caused vibration at higher speeds especially after 50-60mph.

Fred
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Wednesday, February 7th, 2007 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
DHSMITH06
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  • 6 POSTS
I will look at that.
Thank you very much for the reply.
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Wednesday, February 7th, 2007 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the U Joints for play
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Friday, February 9th, 2007 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
DHSMITH06
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  • 6 POSTS
Well I replaced the rear joint, the front joint (nearest transmission) was good. The tailshaft seal was good and just minimal play. Still have truck vibration.
Now, is the shaft that the yoke of the driveshaft connects too supposed to have play it it? I noticed it did.

I also had some play in hubs to I tightned them down (bought new inner and outer bearing with races to replace this week as they are old anyway.)But at time just tightend--which did help some clater and stering when on highway:)

im out of guesses. How can I chk if a rim is warped or out of round? Guess they cant tell when they do balance?
Any other ideas as to cause vibration?
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Monday, February 12th, 2007 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Try susbtitution-at any joint there should be no play tolerance.
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Monday, February 12th, 2007 AT 2:16 PM
Tiny
DHSMITH06
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Ive tried moving tires around. Guess I could swap the spare tire out 1 at a time and see if that locates it. All the joints ect are firm, no play.
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Monday, February 12th, 2007 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
I admire your determination, go for it.
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Monday, February 12th, 2007 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
DHSMITH06
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you. This has now become an obsession as I like trying to determine problems- guess its the computer tech in me. Haha which is funny, being able to work on trucks (taking things apart and putting back together, diagnosis ect is what got me started on computers in the 1st place. LOL

This problem however is (on a lower terminaology of words). TICKING ME OFF that I cant fix! LOL
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Monday, February 12th, 2007 AT 2:37 PM
Tiny
KEITH J
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I have the exact problem with my 1998 GMC Sonoma. It has a 4.3L, Automatic transmission, 2WD, and 100,000 miles.

The front end is tight. Wheel bearings are good. I ran the truck on a lift at 60 - 70 MPH, no vibration. No play in U-Joints. Slight side to side play in output shaft of transmission. New shocks. Tires are balanced and round.

If I put the transmission in neutral when the vibration starts, and let the engine speed die down, the vibration stays as the truck coasts.

I'm stumped. Any ideas?

Regards,

Grandpot
Experience is recognizing the same mistake, everytime you make it !
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Friday, March 23rd, 2007 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
DHSMITH06
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  • 6 POSTS
Yep, same here bud. Tried the neutral thing as well. I did notice this weekend when I get to 90, it rides perfect! HAHA
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Monday, March 26th, 2007 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
ILWRATH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I can tell ya what, I have the same problem with my V6/4.3L auto 2wd 1998 Blazer, as well.

It's certainly not in the front end, that's tight as anything. It's somewhere in the center to rear of the vehicle.

Yeah, same here. Neutral doesn't change the vibration. (So that would seem to count out trans/torque converter slippage that I originally thought of) I've been pondering u-joints, the rear axle or axle bearings, or rear yoke, on mine.

One thing I've noticed is it actually vibrates LESS if I have more weight in the back.

Any thoughts, people? It seems to be a bit of a chronic problem for our aging Blazers.
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Friday, April 13th, 2007 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
KEITH J
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Well fellas, mine seems to be fixed. Here's what I went through:

1. Replaced worn idler arm. No improvement.
2. Replaced rear bushing in transmission. No improvement.
3. Had the U-joints and driveshaft inspected by a pro. Had driveshaft balanced. The technician said it was just out a little. No improvement.
4. Two tire stores said it was not the tires. Put on a new set anyway. Problem fixed.

I don't know what the real problem with the old tires was, but they definitely were the problem in my case.

I'll continue to follow this thread to see if you fellas have any luck.

Regards,

Keith
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Friday, April 13th, 2007 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBHIEBERT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I had that same problem with my blazer, turns out the tires that alot of shops put on your rims are too wide for the rim so even though they balence them out at the tire shop they are not even close at higher speeds. I know it's a little pricy $100 but go buy the cheap black rims they have that are the ten inch and give it a try fixed mine right away
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Sunday, April 22nd, 2007 AT 10:19 PM

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