SOUNDS LIKE A PROBLEM WITH THE CHEVY
USE A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT--GROUND IT REAL WELL NEAR THE PIG TAIL
HERE'S WHAT YOU SHOULD GET
BROWN WIRE PIN---STEADY TEST LIGHT
GREEN WIRE PIN--RIGHT TURN --BLINKING TEST LIGHT (IF YOU TURN OFF THE TURN SIGNAL, APPLY BRAKES AND GET A STEADY TEST LIGHT)
YELLOW WIRE PIN--LEFT TURN--BLINKING TEST LIGHT (IF YOU TURN OFF THE TURN SIGNAL, APPLY BRAKES AND GET A STEADY TEST LIGHT)
WHITE WIRE--IS THE GROUND--IT NEEDS TO BE GROUNDED ON THE VEHICLE AND NOT DEPEND ON THE TOW BALL AS A GROUND FOR THE TRAILER
THINGS TO REMEMBER---THE TRAILER HAS 2 FILAMENTS IN THE BULBS, ONE WILL "BURN" (RUNNING LIGHTS) THE OTHER WILL BE REALLY BRIGHT (THIS WOULD BE THE TURN SIGNALS/ BRAKE LIGHT FILAMENT)
SO MANY PEOPLE WILL HOOK UP THEIR LIGHTS SO THAT THE RUNNING LIGHTS AND TURN/ BRAKES ARE REVERSED
THE TURN AND BRAKES ARE NOW DIM, AND THE RUNNING LIGHTS ARE BRIGHT - EVEN ONE SIDE OF THE TRAILER IS CORRECT AND THE OTHER SIDE IS WRONG
MUCH OF THE TIME YOU HAVE A GROUNDING PROBLEM, THIS MAKES CORRECTLY HOOKED UP LIGHTS "SEEK GROUND" WHEREVER IT CAN (THRU THE OTHER WIRE) LIGHTS MAY BLINK DIM, EVEN BOTH FILAMENTS WILL BLINK)
I HAVE MADE SEVERAL REALLY LONG ALLIGATOR CLIP JUMPER WIRES
WHEN I TEST, I GROUND TO THE BATTERY NEGATIVE POST (A GROUND DON'T GET NO BETTER'N THAT!
I REMOVE THE LENSES AND CONNECT (OR TOUCH) MY JUMPER TO THE PLATE INSIDE THE LIGHT FIXTURE. IF THIS WORKS WELL, EITHER MY LIGHT'S GROUND IS RUSTY, OR THE GROUND FROM THE TOW VEHICLE IS BAD
REMOVE THE BULBS, LOOK INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE SOCKETS, IS THE CONNECTION THERE? IS IT MELTED? HAS ONE OF THE PINS SUCKED BACK UP INSIDE THE SPRING LOADED BOTTOM?
HAS SOMEONE INSTALLED INCORRECT BULBS? LAST ONE I DEALT WITH, SOMEONE INSTALLED, RATHER "CRAMMED" "1156" (SINGLE FILAMENT) BULBS IN INSTEAD OF "1157" DUAL FILAMENT BULBS
SENDING A PIC OF MY TEST LIGHT IN ACTION (ANOTHER KINDA USE FOR IT) A VOLT METER WILL WORK IF YOU HAVE ONE
KEEP US POSTED ON PROGRESS
THE MEDIC
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Monday, May 22nd, 2017 AT 12:29 PM
(Merged)