Hard to start

Tiny
NTL1991
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
After about 10 hours of sitting cold, I checked the pressure and it's reading 0 PSI.
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
That is why it is hard starting, no fuel pressure, it has to build it back up and the lines have air in them before it can start
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NTL1991
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
I have some more information that might be of some more assistance.

I noticed that the engine will have a severe misfire (strong enough to flash the MIL and set the P0300 code), but only in 2nd gear. If I'm going 35 miles an hour in 2nd gear (about 2500RPM) and I try to coast or maintain a certain RPM above 2000 and lightly have the accelerator pressed, the misfires happen. When I accelerate in 2nd, nothing. This problem doesn't happen in Over Drive. When I stop in 2nd, nothing.

The engine was also at operating temperature, but it will also do it when it's cold.

The first time I tried to recreate the conditions and set the P0300 code, it also set P0147 and P1351 along with it. The second which I let it misfire only for a short period of time, set only the P0300.
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
P0147- o2 heater circuit
P1351 - ignition control circuit high voltage
Both of these could be related to a faulty PCM or bad wiring/connections. Test to see if you have 12 volts at the o2 sensor for the heater circuit. If so, the sensor may be bad, but the other code requires alot more diagnostic. Have you signed up for our online manual (Mitchell) to use as a diagnostic aid?
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NTL1991
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
No, I have AllData.

I have a question though. The engine that came in my truck was an X-Vin 4.3L V6. When that engine threw a rod, it was replaced with a long-block W-Vin 4.3L V6 engine. The PCM is original from the X-Vin. Are the PCMs the same from VIN to VIN?

Nick
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
The original was an X or Z? Z is throttle body. The PCM wont matter, you didnt change the fuel injection, only the engine under it
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NTL1991
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
The original was an X-Vin engine.

I did notice today that the misfire also occurs much more frequently when the truck is cold. Even in park, the engine would misfire repeatedly when revved and even when under full throttle. This disappears when the truck warms up.

Nick
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUSTAN54176
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 126,000 MILES
Starter will not engage at all times and when key is turned solenoid clicks. If you hold in the clutch still clicks. If you pump the clucth and continue to turn the ignition switch eventually it will fire over. I dont believe the starter is bad because it does start. Could the clutch switch be the problem?
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
Is the click coming from the starter? If so, chances are the solenoid is bad on the starter and needs replaced.

Let me know. Also, if you still feel the starter is fine, try this. When it won't start, have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage to the smaller wire on the starter. You should be getting 12+ volts. I you are, replace the starter. If not, let me know.
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUSTAN54176
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Actually after pulling the starter I found the issue, Turned out to be the main posative wire from battery to starter was bad. Reolaced the wire and starts fine now. Thanks for your assistance.
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,708 POSTS
I'm glad you found the probem. A bad cable will do it. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAPALOU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 CHEVROLET S-10
Engine problem
1996 Chevy S-10 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 140K miles

I have a 1996 Chevy S-10 with 140,000 miles on it. It has a 4.3 V-6 Vortex. I'm having a hard time starting it cold or hot, but it runs perfect once it starts. I've done a major tune up, including spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, fuel regulator valve, throttle body, oxygen sensor 1 & 2 and a new fuel pump and it's still starting hard. Any suggestions as to what I can try next?
Thanks a lot,
Lou
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Check your fuel pump relay. Your fuel pump relay is what gives your fuel pump juice for 2 seconds prior to engine starting to prime the fuel system. Check this then get back to us. We can definately point you in the right direction.
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-1
Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIM4NOW
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1996 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 85,000 MILES
I have a 1996 S10 pick--up 2.2 engine. When it's cold I have to crank it about 10 seconds to get it to fire. Sometimes longer. I have already replaced the fuel pump and filter. When it's warm, it is better but not like it should be.

When I changed the fuel pump, the tank was rusted quite a bit where the fuel pump flange seals and it leaks when it is overfilled. Could this be the problem?The truck started fine for quite a while after changing the pump. Just this summer, it has started starting hard. It was a gradual problem. It wasn't an over-night problem.
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
If you have a leak at the pump gasket, your ses light should be on and a code for a minor, and gross leak should be stored, if so, you know the answer. Replace the tank, this is step one!
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TMCLEOD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 CHEVROLET S-10
Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Chevy S-10 4 cyl 100000 miles

Hard to start, but when started, runs OK. Have to use starting fluid
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Welcome to the forum. How long since a tune-up? Use a gage and check fuel pressure. If you have the spider fuel system, they are known for a hard cold start. The fuel poppets may need to be cleaned. The best cleaning procedure is a shop procedure.
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
S-10GUY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
The car almost always needs two tries to start. Once started, acceleration is sluggish for about a minute. Once it's warm it, runs fine. I had it tuned up about a year ago and just had the fuel injectors replaced. Fuel pump?
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,198 POSTS
If it runs fine warm its not the pump, do you have a ck engine light on? You can go and get a free scan at autozone, if you dont have a light on tell them it comes on and off, that way you get history codes
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BVELON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • CHEVROLET S-10
I have a 1996 S-10 w/127,000 miles. Vortec V-6. It has been a great vehicle, but in the last few weeks it has been starting hard when the engine is hot.
When the engine is cold it starts with just a half crank of the starter. However once it gets warm or hot, it cranks for 5 or 6 seconds and then starts like it was flooded. There are no codes. Is this a problem with the TBFI or with a sensor. I need this vehicle for everyday use and am afraid that it will shut off on me if I don't get it fixed. Thanks for any help you can provide. :P
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)

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