Heater core replacement?

Removal Procedure
Remove the heater/vent module. Refer to HEATER/VENT MODULE.
Remove the heater core access cover screws.
Fig. 14: Identifying Heater Core Access Cover & Screws
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Remove the heater core access cover.
Remove the heater core from the heater/vent module.
Fig. 15: Identifying Heater Core
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Installation Procedure
Install the heater core to the heater/vent module.
Fig. 16: Identifying Heater Core
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE:Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the heater core access cover.
Tighten
Tighten the heater core access cover screws to 1.9 N.M (17 lb in).
Fig. 17: Identifying Heater Core Access Cover & Screws
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Install the heater/vent module. Refer to HEATER/VENT MODULE.

These are some tips from Master technicians that have perform the job

Vehicle: 2001 Chevrolet S10 Pickup
Category/Subcategory: HVAC / Manual HVAC System
Title/Heading: MANUAL A/C-HEATER SYSTEMS - BLAZER, JIMMY, SONOMA & S10 PICKUP / HEATER CORE
Tip: R&R HEATER CORE 2000 S-BLAZER
Current rating is 3.5 (rated by 24 shops) Click to rate tip. Showing 1-12 of 12

Posted By: JakeP. Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: JAKES AUTOMOTIVE
Date: 1/7/2008 5:22:14 PM

Put in one of these today. Book gives 8.5 took about 3 hrs. The 98 model is harder to do. I started by taking the hoses loose. Then move the blower resister. Look down in there---unscrew a bolt going the firewall into the blower housing. There is a stud coming through the firewall in the middle. Takes 7/16 socket--take care of that one. Now go to the inside and take the whole dash and put it in the backseat. Scews at the top. A 10mm headed bolt on each side. Drop the column down. Need to do some unplugging. Remove glove box and you got a big electrical connector-use 7mm socket. A vac. Connector. Get some slack going for the ant. Cable. IMPORTANT-- Take aloose one connector at bcm(plastic box in middle). The one at the top going to dash.I almost pulled it by the roots. After pulling the dash back a little you will see a connector on driver's side with big wires---get it. And get the ant. Cable out the back of radio. None of this bad to do. The housing has a 10mm headed bolt at bottom and two screws coming in backwards through the firewall. Undo the bolt. I used a hammer and big screw driver on the other two under there. Yank back-do the core. I could do three of these in one day and I'm getting old. Didn't take pictures sorry. Got a late start on it today and to my surprise finished it. If you think this one is hard better run when a jeep comes in.----Jake

Posted By: Tim__G Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: JAYS CAR REPAIR
Date: 1/7/2008 6:20:28 PM

Jake.

Great tip.

I remember doing this last year especially the nut inside the case.

I was hoping to do another one so I could get some pictures for our friends.

I am surprised you don't have pictures.

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: BIRNERS AUTO REPAIR
Date: 11/24/2008 1:29:20 PM

This is first one I did took me 5 1/2 hours thanks for the tips

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: A AND P AUTOMOTIVE
Date: 2/19/2009 1:07:43 PM

great tip 3 hours thanks mike a & p automotive

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: DECARLOS AUTO REPAIR
Date: 6/29/2009 11:38:53 AM

THANKS FOR THE VERY GOOD TIP!

TERRY D.

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: MID CITY AUTO INC
Date: 4/12/2010 1:39:24 PM

not a sucsessful repair if it leaves more broken than it comes.[Hammer, screw driver?]

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: A C AUTOMOTIVE
Date: 8/11/2010 5:52:56 PM

Hey guys! Take the extra time to remove the lower fasteners at the firewall! Dont be a "HACK" This is the difference between and "Tech" and a "Greaseball". Customers pay good money for a repair done right, don't tarnish your reputation buy short cutting! It only takes an additional 20 minutes.

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: JOES AUTO SERVICE
Date: 8/11/2010 7:53:36 PM

Yeah, yall quit tearing up stuff and do it right. What's wrong wid ya!

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: DIAMOND AUTO REPAIR
Date: 8/12/2010 5:26:49 AM

Hmmm. You must have broken off the stud that goes from the evap case through the fire wall on the far right side. Only way to PROPERLY remove the nut on that stud is to remove the right inner fender and evap case. Hope your customer enjoys their Blazer with the new "rattle trap" dash installed.

Posted By: Tech1 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: JOES AUTO SERVICE
Date: 8/12/2010 5:37:33 AM

Yep, he should have tore off the whole right side of truck ta get to that one stud.

If the car had the factory Dex Cool coolant, you can not mix the green with it. If you did, that is the problem. Have it fulshed immediately and replace it with GO 5 universal coolant. You must flush or it will corrode and clog the engine system.

Let me know what you find.

No professional would consider that for good reason. You still have to separate the heater box halves, discharge the air conditioning if you have it, and remove the AC evaporator. Do it the right way and don't chop up the truck.

Hi
No need to discharge AC. Remove acess cove unbolt core and out she comes.
Good Luck
Thanks for donate