Engine overheating

Tiny
GIZMO_587
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 151,000 MILES
Recently I have been having problems with my heat. I have flush my heater core, and replaced the thermostat. My heat would get hot when my engine ran a little too warm then would go back to cold. Yesterday I was driving it and the heat went out completely, and my engine totally overheated. Am I correct to think that my water pump if failing?
Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 5:31 PM

60 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because the hose will be HOT! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the thermostat), or a clogged radiator. It sounds more like you have a coolant leak and it allows the cooling system to get low, here are two guides we can go over to fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
GIZMO_587
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for the guides I found the water pump was leaking so I got a new one for $114.00 and fixed it I love this site.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
S-SCHOP1
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
  • 2003 CHEVROLET BLAZER
Engine Cooling problem
2003 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

this vehicle has an issue with running hot to the point of boiling in the coolant resevoir. They have had a new radiator and thermostat installed at a shop. I have drained the green coolant out and installed the dexcool coolant, also I have replaced the fan clutch. The temp at the thermostat housing after driving is 220 and the temp guage agrees with that. I am just wondering what im missing. Also, while driving there is a "gurgling" sound during acceleration coming from the heater core area, and I was very careful to make sure there was no air in the system. Or so I thought.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
At this stage of the game you have probably developed a blown head gasket from one of the previous overheating episodes.
A side note here. Once you have green coolant in the system, unless you can flush every drop of it clear, the Dexcool benefits are all lost and you only have the effect of green coolant anyway.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
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Hook a pressure pump to the radiator. I believe the cap is 15psi, so crank your pump to 15. Put a pair of vise grips on the overflow hose just under your radiator cap. Watch for a drop in pressure. If u see any leaks, then u know what to fix, however if u dont see any, u said maybe heatercore, check the passenger floor for dampness. If its dry, its most likely a lower intake gasket, head gaskets are pretty rare on the 4.3, unless it got overheated.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE REGULSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2001 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,080 MILES
Hello,
I have a great little blazer that is still my favorite to drive but it is runnig screwy and I need some hints.

1. Everyday I have to add water to the radiator always 16-32 ounces. I don't drive far 20 miles round trip.

2. When I stop at the lights the car shudders and feels like it misses.

3. It runs fine down the highway but in slow moving traffic it boggs down.

4. It over heated today Tuesday the 22, First time in over 16 months.

5. The thermostat is fine it was wide open when the mechanic to the assembly apart. It collapsed in mere seconds after being exposed to the cooler envionment.

6. I have 20w-50 synthetic with a Lucas additive just changed 4,000 miles ago. I used the Fram exra guard filter. Today when I checked the oil it was milky, looked like coffe with creamer in it. Very upsetting but not the end of the world. I will change the oil tomorrow, but how will this affect my lifters? What is my potential downfall here.

7. The mechanic shop said "I have a blown head gasket and it will be a three day job costing 1,500 dollars. Wow to my supprise I figured bad water pump something simple not a head gasket.

8. What kind of test can be run to diagnose the problem properly? I do not wish to just give money away to people. If there is a 100 dollar diagnostic test that can be run I would prefer that. Is there really a way to deterine if it is a head gasket or are you supposed to take the at their word. Economics being what they are now can you really take someones word when the overhead is so high and the revenue so low?

9. I hope this is not too much information but I figure the more you know the better the guess. Thank you for your time.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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Take truck from that shop because the guy is inexperienced or overcharging, in my opinion. Anybody who has worked on these trucks before knows your problem is a leaking intake manifold gasket not a head gasket. This is such a common occurance I cant believe the mechanic thinks its a head gasket. The gasket for the lower intake manifold is made from plastic and rubber which in all cases the plastic gets brittle and breaks causing the gasket to split out, thus causing your leak. Get another opinion. Dont drive it anymore until you replace the gasket or you will do damage to engine. Hope this helps shed some light on the problem. Oh yeah this lower intake job should not cost more than 750. And at 750 thats on the high side. Ps they redesigned the gasket into rubber and steel so it wont happen again. Good luck
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE REGULSKI
  • MEMBER
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Just a little help for the uneducated in car lingo. What is the differance and how do I sound like I have a clue? Is the Head Gasket failure rate common along with the Intake Manifold Gasket. Where is this located and what type of repair is it in relation to the head gasket? I am confused. Can this be fixed and then have the head gasket go son after because now there ismore compression and it will seek a ne weakness?
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
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Sorry. I have worked for gm over ten years and worked on my own for several more. I have never seen a head gasket go bad on one of these trucks, its always been the lower intake manifold gasket. The difference is the manifold gasket takes much less time to replace and although it is possible for a head gasket to go bad, I have never seen one fail, its always just been the intake manifold gasket. In my opinion I think if you just replace the intake gaskets now you will have no further problems with the engine.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JMF02F
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  • 1 POST
  • 2001 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
A month ago my engine began to overheat. It never reached red line because I pulled over and let it cool before it did. When I opened the hood the reservoir had a brown gunk in it. So I got my radiator flushed and filled with more DexCool coolant. That fixed the problem. Now fast forward to now. The car is starting to run hot (3/4 of the full temp guage) when the car is at a stop light or in park. When the car is in motion, at all, the temp. Goes back down. Also when the car is accelerated there is a water flowing/bubbling noise that can be heard. I don't really know if it is getting hot though because when it gets hot I'll turn off the car and listen and there is no classic hot water bubbling noise nor smell or steam. I think that it needs a new water pump. What do you guys think?
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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Its possible but it could be a couple of other things to. Like a bad engine coolant temp. Sensor. Or a bad thermostat. Is there a engine light on? Well whether it is or not I suggest that you bring it to autozone or your local parts store for a free computer analysis. If its a sensor then it will show which one or at least rule it out. Keep me posted
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE REGULSKI
  • MEMBER
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Thanks for your time and answers. Where is this intake manifold gasket located? How do I direct the mechanic to observe the failure possibility of this particular gasket instead of the head. Can the manifold be removed without compromising the integrity of the seal? Can the head be removed with out ruining the structural integrity of the head gasket? Can they the machanics do a gasket check or compression check to determine which specific area is damaged and replace that gasket? I appreciate the fact that you have never gad one go bad.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZEUTE
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  • 1 POST
Mine is doing the same thing. I've noticed too when it overheats I lose all heat to the interior compartment.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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You need to remove the intake to see that it is bad. **Im sure it is bad**. This gasket was so poorly designed that they updated it two times before they made one that would not fail. The original intake gasket is made out of plastic surrounding a rubber gasket. Needless to say that over time the plastic cracks and the rubber gasket spits out. The new updated gasket is hard rubber molded over steel so we wont have this problem anymore. Basically the intake manifold has to be removed before you can reach the head. Im so sure that when he removes the intake there will be no doubt that the intake gasket is gone. Sometimes its hard to detect a bad gasket but these fall apart so bad it can not be missed.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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Start with your thermostat then.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NICKO10
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 136,850 MILES
My Radiater has coolant in it.(When engine is cool, I remove radiator cap and liquid is to the top). However the engine is overheating on me this afternoon. I do live in Phoenix, Az and the current temp is 112. Any suggestions. I do have an appointment set to look at it first thing monday morning.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Try replacing the thermostat and see what happens
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NICKO10
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I am takign it to a shop first thing monday to have them look at it. I trust these guys my brother has used them and they are nice. I have talked to someone else about this and they agree it might be the thermostate. I have read its and inexpensive replacement plus labor might run me aroud 75. Does that sound about right. I hope that is the issue. I just put new tires on the fron this morning I dont feel liek dumping alot of money into it. But it does get me around and I do need it.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BELLEVUE5150
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2000 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
What causes the s10 blazer to boil over into the expansion tank?
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,361 POSTS
Many different things, a stuck thermostat, bad fan clutch. Plugged radiator, bad head gasket, a bad water pump. Is it leaking anywhere.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 1:22 PM (Merged)

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