Caster and camber set

Hello again.

Oh okay. So it looks like you are just doing one side (driver). You will have to take the hood, fender, bumper, and center brace off.

Danny-

Okay, any step by step instructions? I am doing driver side what mounts that piece and need instructions on lower radiator support to.

Hello again
Unfortunately, that is the only picture that I could find. There were no other step-by-step diagrams. Only other thing was bumper removal. I think you might have better luck with checking YouTube. I wll try looking elsewhere as well.
Danny-

How do I go about changing struts and strut bushing out on lower control arm?

Hello again.

I have attached a few pictures for you. If you do not have a ball joint/press removal/installation tool you will have to rent one for the lower control arm strut bushing replacement. If you are going to replace the strut cartridges and not the whole complete unit you will have to rent a strut spring compressor tool as well. Hope all this helps and let me know any more questions you have.
Danny-

Okay, so my plan was to replace the whole strut assembly and was wondering what all I have to take apart to do it and if I still need coil spring compressor any step by steps?

Hello
If you are replacing the whole assembly you do not need the spring compressor as it installs as a complete unit. You will only need the spring compressor if you are just replacing the strut cartridge and re-using your old spring. I can look for a step-by-step if you are replacing the strut cartridge. If replacing entire unit it is just bolts in.
Danny-

What do you have to take apart to be able to get strut assembly out? And would the strut not still have pressure behind it? What do I need to torque bolts to on it?

Hello again.

If you jack up the truck and put jack stands under the frame let the upper and lower control arms be free (unloaded) the struts will come out after being unbolted with nothing else having to be taken apart. The torque is 50 ft lbs for the upper strut nuts and 150 ft lbs for the lower. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

So I do not have to remove any sway bar links or take tie rod out or lower control arms out? Here is a picture:

Do I need a alignment after?

What about spindle and rotors so on they have to come out?

Here is bottom picture of strut bolt.

Hello again.

No, nothing else has to come apart. You do not need an alignment after strut replacement. After unbolting you will be able to remove by just tilting sideways and bringing out towards you. Hope this helps.

Danny-

So everything stays bolted you said let upper and lower control arms be free. Do not have to mess with them either. Basically just unbolt strut wiggle some. How pull out? Does not look like I could pull towards me any or pull out will it drop or something when unbolt it.

Hello
Yes, Just unbolt strut assembly and move it around enough to bring it out.Nothing else needs to be unbolted.It may take a few minutes but it will come out as a complete unit.
Danny-

I a little iffy about it what videos I watched shows on the 2006 Dakota having to take upper control arms off tie rod end has to be popped out and people using ratchet straps on spring because of so much tension. Sway bar links have to be off. Please insure me your way is right and will not get myself injured.

I also need information on how to do valve stem seals with out taking head off. There is a way to do it my buddy has done it before.

Hello again.

Were you able to get the struts out? As far as valve stem seals. We do not have a step-by-step tutorial for that. When I personally have done it you would first take valve cover off. Then do each cylinder one by one. Start by removing spark plug and make sure engine is rotated so the valve is closed.Using an air compressor use an adapter to run air into the cylinder spark plug hole at 100 PSI to keep valve in place (do not let drop into cylinder). When removing rocker arm mark and count how many turns to remove the rocker arm nut. Using a valve spring removal tool remove spring being careful to not lose valve keepers. Remove spring and then old seal. Install new seal and reassemble just as you took apart. Hope this helps.

Danny-

So I am not a hundred percent sure it is valve stem seals but it smokes during start up but not all the time it does burn oil but not much. Are there any additives or fluids or anything that could fix it before I go putting seals in it? It has only got 98,021 miles not much.

Hello.

The brand name Lucas makes really good additives. You can try that if you do not want to do seals yet.

Danny-

I have a clunking or jolting like sound from front end when I run over I uneven service or turn a certain way. What could that be could that be them struts and strut bushing considering everything has been replaced on front end besides lower control arms tie rod ends and struts cause the bushing are ate up or could it be axles even though there new.

Hello.

Did you end up replacing the struts?
Danny-

No not yet.

Hello again.

Yes, it is a strong possibility the noise could be coming from the struts or strut bushing.
Danny-

I just recently wreck my truck and the alignment was already bad on top of it. I replaced hub assembly and tie rod ends on driver side ( they was only ones bad). When I got it back I rotated tires since old ones wear warn from bad alignment. Now the truck pulls left more then ever. Took it back to shop and they have no idea without putting it back on rack and I have to wait a week for that. My alignment specs are as followed.
Driver side
caster +4.15
Camber +.20
Partial toe +.02
SAI +10.15

Passenger side
Caster +4.50
Camber +.20
Partial toe +.02
SAI +10.55

Front Set back -.25

Rear total toe +.01
Rear Driver camber -.30
Rear driver toe +.05
Rear pass camber -.35
Rear pass toe -.04
Rear set back -.20
Rear thrust angle +.15

Please help
And thanks in advance

1997
2WD
Camber (1) 0.38 0 To 0.50
Caster (1) 3.9 0 To 0.70
Toe In (2) 0.06 (1.6) 0 To 0.3 (0 To 0.8)
Toe In (1) 0.15 0 To 0.10
4WD
Camber (1) 0.38 0 To 0.50
Caster (1) 3.7 0 To 0.60
Toe In (2) 0.06 (1.6) 0 To 0.3 (0 To 0.8)
Toe In (1) 0.15 0 To 0.10
(1) Measurement in degrees.
(2) Measurement in inches (mm).

Suspension problem
1990 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Okay her goes, my 1990 Dakota has excessive negative camber on the driver's front tire, is making squealing noises when i turn and thumps when i slow down or speed up.

So have you actually looked to see what's wrong? Has the upper ball joint housing popped out of the control arm? Caster and camber are adjusted by moving a slip-shaft attached to the upper control arm. If the nuts are loose, the arm will shift when you hit a bump.

The steering arm is half-way between the upper and lower control arms, so any change in camber needs to have an accompanying change in toe. Since camber changed and toe wasn't adjusted, toe is now off a bunch resulting in the tire squeal. When camber is fixed, toe will also get better, but you will need an alignment for proper tire wear.

If you find the slip-shaft is loose, and it happens again, suspect rust buildup in the threads of the two mounting bolts. The rust makes the nuts feel tight, but they aren't clamping the shaft properly.

caradiodoc