Carter BBD bad hesitation problem

Just for giggles,

Think you could post good pictures of the left and right sides of your engine with the breather removed?

Also, lets lay the hood back on the windshield frame and remove the breather for a few good overhead shots.

The better the light the better!

Sometimes I can spot problems in the pictures, There's been 40 years that people could have monkeyed with stuff!

I presently have a 1946 and a 1977, I have upgraded many things on the 1977 to be like a 1979.

I've never had nothing but CJs ever since I was allowed on the road in 1981. I consider the 1979 model the "peak" of the CJs!

We'll continue on after your next response!

Nice to meet you!

The Medic

I'm going to give it to you as straight as I can.

Pic 1) Obvious things I see. There are reasons why they should be like 2, 3, 4

Pic 2 and 3) Return line (with a few bells and whistles)

Pic 4) 1979 PCV is on the left.

Pic 5) My 390

I've since replaced my intake manifold and installed a 390 Holley on mine. Doing so was very expensive, I do get 18 MPG (I had made up my mind I would make a MPG improvement no matter what it costs!)

Your carburetor (the Carter BBD) is a great system!

However,

The carburetor is 40 years old, it has 40 years of wear on many of the parts.

Even buying a re-manufactured carburetor may still leave you with worn parts reused with in it.

There are some tedious adjustments that need to be made, sometimes the re-builder does not make these "tweaks" to the reman.

The average Joe with limited knowledge will build it wrong or damage a part without knowing it.

I'm almost embarrassed to make this suggestion, I have suggested this many times and so far, have always gotten good results (with local Jeeps)(With 2carpros forum fixes).

Seems that the Jeep Carter BBD carburetor is not made domestically anymore, remans are about all that are available. And you still have an "old" caburetor!

Over the pond, they are making new ones! They work great! They adjust as they should!

It's been a while since they hit the market, they have gone up in price a little. They are still way cheaper than a reman, but just a little more than a rebuild kit. It's ready to go!

If you go this route, I will be glad to aid with installing it and tuning the Jeep properly!

I've looked over the whole bunch, this would be my best suggestion. See this link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARB-CARBURETOR-TYPE-CARTER-ENGINE-FOR-JEEP-WAGONEER-BBD-CJ5-CJ7-2-BARREL-6-CIL/151969443561?hash=item236215aee9:g:jSQAAOSwr lYqrIO

What do you think of this plan so far?

The Medic

I have no clue about what "On Canada" is all about, My bestess 5 minute guess is "Ontario Canada". Why that could be considered a bad place for mail, again, is beyond me.

Email him back and explain that CJ MEDEVAC on 2carPros. Has been recommending the carburetors he sells. If he cannot deliver, we'll be forced to find another source that can!

The return line and correct fuel filter prevent the needle and seat from being overpowered with fuel pressure. Meaning fuel could be forced into the carburetor (overfilled) when the floats should have stopped it at the proper height and any overage being recycled to the tank.

Want me to look for a different source for the carburetor? You want to try him again? You want to look too?

The Medic

I reckon to each his own!

I ran a Weber 32/36 progressive for maybe a year. I never could tweak it to gain more MPGs (it's literature promised a 20% betterment).

After a few books (manuals) and pill organizer full of different sized jets, squirters, and various other tuning parts I threw in the towel and began investigating a 390 Holley.

This may help, I need to re-write it specifically for a 258, so let's disregard the 304 translation! I answered that one a long while back.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

With the Weber, you are going to find that the "ported" vacuum to the distributor's vacuum advance will work the best.

I also prefer manual chokes, there's normally less to go wrong and "stick". I'm the one in charge of when it's on, off, cracked open!

Pics below were my records as to how I tried to tune the ole Weber and did other Jeep maintenance along the way.

As you can gather I'm not the one to give Weber advise!

The Medic

Good afternoon,

Does this have an EGR valve?

What are the points set at?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-hesitates

After the points are set to the correct setting, I would set the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center. With the age of the Jeep, I would advance it a little for timing chain wear.

Roy

Okay, keep me updated.

Roy

The pump should shoot fuel as soon as the throttle is moved.

Check the check ball at the bottom of the passage. It may be bleeding down and need to be primed before shooting fuel.

Roy

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

Well,

I never got notified when you returned?

I do have a wrong to right!

Maybe everybody that saw my other pics didn't use them!

ASEMASTER6371 thanks for jumping in, it's not good when your (my) client thinks he's been abandoned!

See if this new pic makes sense, also throwing in a current pic of Mr. Jeep.

The Medic