Car wont start has spark and has fuel

Did you remove the distributor?

Are you confident it went back in correctly?

Unsure? Maybe I can help.

You are ACTUALLY seeing spark?

The Medic

Roger on spark!

Rules out a New Bad Module.

If the distributor ain't in time with the with the pistons,

You will STILL get spark, At the Wrong Time!

Not questioning your abilities, but if you are bumping the engine with the starter to get to TDC, it's EZ to overrun your marks.

I'M COPYING AND PASTING this from a Jeep CJ post I answered (My Favorite vehicle)

DISREGARD the firing order! And other Jeep stuff (like the manual tranny) It's for the Jeep!

**********

MAYBE A THIS IS A REVIEW BUT THESE ARE GOOD!

CLASS 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY

CLASS 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=FHX1yXVyIMg&feature=endscreen

now

if we got carried away bumping the starter - this way (below) will cut out possible "going too far with the timing marks

now that david and chad told you how

let's do it to slow motion

hide your keys/chock your wheels/ go to neutral

remove #1 spark plug

stick it back in , maybe 2 threads (instead of using your thumb)

rotate the engine with a wrench or ratchet (not the starter)

clockwise as viewed from the grill

when you hear the "hiss" coming by #1 plug=-=-=stop! ( a friend may be helpful to hear this at #1 (as the other cylinders hiss internally (usually fainter) when you rotate the engine manually

now, we are on/ beginning the compression stroke on #1 cylinder (piston is still coming up)

we ain't up yet!

ever so slowly rotate the engine (cw) till your timing mark (line) lines up with zero!

stop!!!

i have found that using the starter for the "bumpage" usually results in "overrunning" the marks, compression kicks it back, etc.

then you mistakenly rotate on around 180 degrees from where you should be (not sayin' bad things, but if you are new to this, it's an ez mistake!)

ok, back to our slow-motionage!

now look at the rotor button

it should be facing the "mark" you put on the 'stributor

.......or which ever tower you chose to be #1 (textbook or not)

the engine/ cam/ crank don't care which one it is!

as long as you were at tdc, you placed #1 spark plug wire on "that tower" (the one that rotor is pointing to)

and your 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order starts there- and runs the sequence clockwise (looking down on the 'stributor cap)

installing it "textbook" cuts down on confusion later on, as you may have forgotten the "deal"- simply hooking it all up like it shows in the book will make it ezier in 8 months! (but you gotta install it textbook now!)

lets hears some info!

THE MEDIC

OK end of my pasting, Is it possible that it's the distributor, or the wires are, off in sequence?

Ruling out EZ stuff!

The Medic

OK New Cap- done right.

Distributor was never taken loose or out of the engine?

Have you tried a two second burst of starter fluid into the throttle body and an attempted start? What did it do?

The Medic

What about shooting fuel into the throttle body, does it 'TRY' or does it just do dry over and overs?

The Medic

Gotta get 'terms' a little corrector!

"Turns Over" means Cranks/ Cranking/ Crankshaft does revolutions using the starter/ hand crank/ pushing it off with the clutch

Runs/ 'busts off'/ 'it started up' means it is now moving due to internal combustion taking over!

Overlooking key questions or assuming I know 100%

You said

"What I did was just took the old distributor put it next to the new one facing the same direction, then one by one I switched the cables over."

I sorta really need to know was this JUST THE CAP or the ACTUAL DISTRIBUTOR that was swapped? Has the anchor been taken loose and the distributor picked up (even slightly)

3 NEEDS for engine to run

FUEL (real fuel)

SPARK (at the right time)

COMPRESSION (Kinda the last thing I check, unless a flag goes up)

Did you squirt in some starter fluid? (You know if you have a lot of water in your tank-IT SQUIRTS TOO- It just don't have any combustion value!

I ask these kinda questions/ perform simple tests to see which direction we need to attack.

When you don't do the test or give vague information I'm stuck here without a compass!

Re-read this post, Let's get the info I need.

The Medic

Lets get back to basics, First when you put the distributor back in did you mark it becasue if you pull it our it will not go back in the same way becasue of the oil pump drive rod, you either have to move the drive rod backwards slightly or move the distributor counterclockwise.

Here is a guide that might help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

Ken,

Says the distributor was never touched,

Just the cap

I wonder if the roll pin on the distributor gear gave way? This would affect the firing order.

RICHARD BRADSHAW - can you 'Sternly' Not 'Forcibly' Try to turn the rotor button (the shaft included) with your fingers to see if it will move to another position. We Don't Wanna Break Nuthin'

IT SHOULD NOT TURN! (Unless the gear on the other end has a problem)

A little CW and CCW movement is normal.

If you are up to it, we (you!) Can Verify TDC and see if the rotor button is pointing at #1 post on the distributor cap. This will require taking #1 spark plug out. This is not a hard task. Lemme Know!

The Medic