Engine will not crank over

It sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery.

Here is a guide to help you confirm the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Ken, the battery is new. Terminals are squeaky clean. I have even had it checked at Advanced Auto. I certain this problem exists with he immobilizing system. I actually got it started after shorting the two battery cables after someone suggested that the immobilizer circuit utilized a magnetic switch. At that time I though it was fix, but reoccurred the following day. All electrical is good after resetting the circuit by shorting the two battery cables together. I get head lights, interior lights etc. Once I turn the ignition switch to start, everything shuts down, dashboard goes nuts, and of course, no solenoid or starter action.
One thing to note: I can push start the car!

TW

It sounds like the engine is not turning (cranking) over correct? The starter sounds like it might be shorted out or you have a positive battery cable that is bad. Please remove the cable and inspect it. Here is a guide so you can check to see if the trigger wire of the starter is getting power. Check toward the bottom of the guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

You will need to raise the car up safely.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Ken, thanks for the help! I was convinced it was not a power problem, but I did as you suggested and inspected the positive battery cable. I found corrosion one the wire. I removed the terminal and soaked the cable ends ion a solution of water and baking soda all night Then wire brushed the exposed copper. Reassembled the battery calble to the terminal. Starts perfectly every time!
Thanks again
Tommy W.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken

Engine Mechanical problem
2006 Mazda 6 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

my car battery will come on and so will the radio and everything connected to the battery. the problem i am having is that my engine wont turn over it seems. somone told me to beat on the starter but i have no idea where that is. holla at me asap

Hi there ,

This is just a way of UN sticking a starter if it is binding up and not a sure fire way of starting the car, if you have a starter problem, get it inspected and repaired don't mess around with these short cuts, it will get you nowhere.

mark (mhpautos)

Electrical problem
2007 Mazda 6 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 39000 miles

I was listening to the radio without the car running for about 15 minutes. When I went to start it, It was dead. All i heard was clicking. I may have also smelled something inside the car. I left it for a couple hours and when I tried again, it was slow to turn over but it started. I noticed that the only remaining problem while driving was that the passenger side window would not work from either door control. Also the automatic roll feature on the driver side window would not work even though it will roll down when I hold the button. All other windows work.
The positive battery cable connection had heavy corrosion. I cleaned it and found that, of the two strips wrapped around the terminal, one had broken. I put on a new terminal connection. After running the engine for minutes, my car will start again immediately without a problem but if it sits for 30 minutes or so, it will turn over slowly again. Can you narrow down what might be wrong please?

First, I would recommend taking the car to a nationally recognized parts store and have the battery load tested. If the battery passes the test, I would then check to see if there is a draw on the battery. Here is a how to for checking:

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

Let me know what you find. Chances are the battery is getting weak or there is a draw on it.

Joe

It was a bad battery. They said the meter wasn't even sensing a conection between terminals. The car is only 2.5 years old. Could the connection corrosion have caused it to die an early death? Thanks for the help.

Corrosion can cause a bad connection, but the battery will usually last. I think you just got a bad one because the OEM batteries usually last a good 4 to 5 years.

Regardless, I'm glad you're up and running again. Let us know if you have questions in the future, and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

the car will not start and the light inside the car want work and the radio will not come on like its has a lock down alarm mode

check for blown fuses in main box on inner fender and relay

The car wont turn over when the key is turned. The code reader says U0100.
The inside lights work.

That is a communication code so one of the modules is not communicating at all. You will need a professional level scan tool to access the other modules to see which one is dead.

It ran just fine and I came home from work and when I went back out to try and crank it, it turned over with just a whinding sound but wouldnt crank. I checked the oil and it was bone dry! It had just had a oil change 3 weeks ago.So I wasnt even supposed to check it yet. I am buying it at a buyhere/payhere lot in lincolnton, nc and it was as is. The car has drove perfect until now. I have only had it less than 4 weeks and they wont do nothing about it. I need some kind of insight please!

If you let it run out of oil, you may have ruined the engine. Is the engine froze-up? When you try to crank does the flywheel and pulleys turn? Check cylinder compression.

How do you know if the engine is froze-up?

Does the accessory pulleys, under the hood, turn when you crank it? If they do it isn't frozen.

i own a mazda 6 that was stuck in 3rd gear and the car was puttering and just died when i try to start it everything comes on but the car doesn't start. the guage needles go up and down. also the battery light flashed on and off 2 weeks ago and again earlier today.

--Get the alternator and battery checked out-start here

a few years ago (maybe 3.5) the battery was replaced and if i recall correctly the car did the same thing. do you think it could jsut be the battery. the car was driving fine until this. i do admit i now commute via bus to work so the car isn't running as much as it was a month or so ago.

The only way to find out is do what I've suggested

it was the altenator
all fixed adn running great

Hi, wI tried to start my car this morning and the engine wouldn't turnover. I know my battery is going bad and its been cranking slow, but put a charger on it for few hours and tried to crank. All the lights came on, but not even a click or anything when trying to start. I hooked up cables and tried again. Same thing, could it be a fuse or relay, or any other ideas. It is also a manual. Is there a clutch sensor or something like that.

cutch has to be depressed to start. check battery for condition including load test. check items in pic

Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Mazda 6 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

when i turn the key all i get is a clicking noise but if i bump start it it starts the when i turn it off an try t restart it it just clicks again

Could be a bad starter/solenoid. Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then get back to me and we will figure out where it stops

I am rebuilding a 3.0 from a Mazda 6. The manual states that there are 3 different grades of the standard size main bearings. I bought standard aftermarket bearings but the clearance is on the very limit of the tolarence. I bought .010 over but that is so tight the crank won't turn after torquing it down. I have spent hours calling different mazda and ford dealers and I haven't found the bearings I need. According to the engine manual I need standard grade 2 bearings. One dealer found the lower bearing in grade 2, but not the upper bearings. You can't mix sizes can you? The manual doest say that. Can you help?

you need a machine shop to measure the bearing journals and give you the reccomended bearings. you may need to have the crank cut to get the correct bearings

Roy

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Mazda 6 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 70k miles

wife was driving and it just stopped with no indication of a problem...when i looked at it, it cranked well but it does not seem to be getting any gas. I chekced the fuses and they are fine. I have a Mazda 6 (2004) 4-cylinder. I also tried to listen for the fuel pump coming on when I turned the ignition swtith to the on position but heard nothing. \r\nIs there something else I can check before actually assuming it is the fuel pump?

Check and test fuel pump fuse,fuel pump relay.