Car stalls

Tiny
PEACHES42
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
About a week ago my car battery died, and I got a new one installed. My car ran fine until, the next day and now every time I put my car in park it cuts off. Sometimes when I'm sitting at a red light for long periods of times, you it's starts to jerk or shutter like it's going to cut off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Monday, July 13th, 2015 AT 4:41 PM

71 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,640 POSTS
Hey PEACHES42,

This is a common problem and can be fixed by just driving it becasue the computer is trying to relearn itself. Here is a guide explaining the problem better.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls-idles-too-high-low-after-dead-or-replaced-battery

It could be caused by a dirty throttle body as well lets run down this guide to perform the service.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please let us know happens.
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Friday, December 16th, 2016 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
SACREDWOLF
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  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 130,000 MILES
2000 Ford Focus SE, 4 cyl - A few weeks ago engine light came on. Check the codes, it was for a mis-fire on 2nd cylinder. Found that the plug wire was not fitting correctly. Re-set, but it came coming off. Due to age and not sure of how old plugs or wires were decided to change out. All plugs and wires were replaced with new ones. The old plugs were set at a gap of.045, yet the specs called for.052-.056. New plugs were set to specs. Codes were cleared.
But then began to experience the engine dying every time the vehicle was put into park. No new codes issued. This behavior was not consistent, as the dying occurred at certain runs and then would not occur at all. Has happen with air on, then with air off. Has happen when decreasing speed to a stop light.
Pulled plugs again and reset the gap to the original setting thinking that maybe there was a connection. But the problem still exists and no new codes have been issued.
Wanting to find a direction to fix the problem. Currently at a lost due to the inconsistent behavior.
Sometimes it does not happen at all and will not die, then shut vehicle down and restart it, it will start up but quickly stagger and die. You can force it to maintain by pressing the brake and gas and jump shifting to drive. Then other times it starts up, runs fine never showing a sign of issues.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:57 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Check your fuel pressure that can cause your problem.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:57 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEITH BYSH
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Car is a deisal wouldu lose presure over acouple of minets
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Diesels don'tuse spark plugs
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SACREDWOLF
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I have a pressure tester but not sure where to connect it to the system. I do not see a port between the fuel filter and fuel rail. Is this the only place to test the fuel system pressure? Or is there a place underneath the vehicle? It has he 2.0 Split-port 4 cyl motor.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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It's on the fuel rail manifold. It shoud be 35-55 psi.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MRRW91
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  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 94,000 MILES
I recently bought my car from a used car dealership and their product is usually pretty reliable, and affordable. I haven't heard any complaints from them. However, I have had it for about a week and haven't had any problems until yesterday. I was on my way home from work, and I was getting onto the highway which looped down from an intersecting main road above. I was doing approximately between 40-50 mph. On the on-ramp itself. And about 3/4 of the way around the turn, the car basically shut off. Now, I say basically, because the radio was still on, the lights were still on, I was still moving, but it sounded like the engine went to an idle, and shut off. I pulled over, sat with it in drive for a minute because I didn't want to break anything, and then decided that I wanted to put it in park and turn the ignition to off. After I did that, I noticed that the check engine light, the oil light, and the battery light were all on. However, the car started right up and got me home with no other problems. I called the dealership as soon as I got home, and they said the old, 'Call back if it happens again, ' bit. So, on my way home from work tonight, it happened in the same exact spot, and then AGAIN on the off-ramp. I haven't gone on a left entrance or exit ramp yet, so I don't know if it happens when I turn the wheel both directions, but it does seem to be when the wheel gets to a certain point, with addition to a certain speed. I don't know if there are wires loose, and the wheels are hitting them. Or the battery cables are loose, I haven't looked under my hood because I don't know what to look for. I am 20 years old and my Dad is also uncertain of what it could be. I am going to call the dealership back tomorrow and see if I can bring the car in and have them look at it. I am asking on here, if you have heard of this problem before, or any clue as to what could be shutting my engine off.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I have delt with other vehicles that had similar problems. What it usually ends up dealing with is a weak fuel pump. It seems that when you turn, the fuel in the tank moves around and for some reason, the pump doesn't pick it up. As a result the engine looses power or stalls. I would mention that to them. As far as the battery terminals, just open the hood, locate the battery, and see if the connection is loose enough to move around.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SACREDWOLF
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I am unable to locate the port. I assume by you saying the Fuel Rail Manifold that it is not on the fuel rail itself, but yet there is nothing else that looks like a port to connect a tester too. Can you tell me which side of the engine it is on and what it is close too? Driver's side or Passenger's?
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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The fuel rail is hooked up to the injectors you might have to remove an engine cover or air ducting to see it.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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You'll have to get a special tool to disconnect the lines at the maifold then. You 'll also need to replace the o-rings that seal it together. And you'll need an adapter to connect the gauge too. Alot of auto parts stores have these for rental. Here is apic of what to do.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SACREDWOLF
  • MEMBER
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Ok, I saw that thing and wondered if that was not it, but was not sure how to access it, makes sense now. I appreciate the assistance. Could it be possible that this could be something other than the fuel system. Just the inconsistant behavior of it is what makes me ask. Like last night, I set the sprak plugs back the specs and then took it for a spin. I never had any problems until I put it into park. It died immediately. I was able to start it but each time it stalled out. Was able to get it going again by holding the gas down along with the brake and jumping it into drive. But then later after shutting it down again. It started up (no stalling) ran fine and didn't have any issues. So if it is the fuel system, could it be that the fuel pump is going out?
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
X3ROLINK
  • MEMBER
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  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Focus 4 cyl Automatic 106000 miles

my engine is stalling when I come to a full stop. It also has a hard time accelerating and going up hills. I feel it is probably the fuel injector, or possibly the spark plugs. When check engine light went on, and i've take out the spark plug connector and found as least 1/2 cup of water inside. I took out the water and the check engine light went off, (maybe went off then I disconnected the battery?) But I still have the same symptoms. I've gotten this car used last year, and dont know if I should change timing belts or whatnot
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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You shouldn't change anything until you get it diagnosed properly. I'm not sure where you found that water but if your losing coolant, then pressure test the cooling system. It sounds like a compression test should be in order too.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Go back to first answer, if you dont'do what we ask then how can we help fix it? We dont' have a magic wand.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
X3ROLINK
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Will do a diagnostic check. As for coolant, it was very low when I got my car a week ago (was out of state for 3 months and a friend drove it), so I filled it to nominal amount, and so far it seems to be the same.

I'm sorry, i'm still getting into the car talk lingo here, what does the "compression test" test?
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SACREDWOLF
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I have been trying to do what was in the first answer, but lacking tools and time, I am taking the vehicle to a mechanic to have it tested. Hence the reason for my further inquiry, as needed to know what more could cause this issue prior to some shady mechanic painting some horrid picture costing hundreds. Just trying to get as much information as possible. No expectations of a magic wand, but just testing the fuel pressure does not explain to me a direct possible cause. Does it? I have no clue, which is the reason I came here to ask and learn! Once I have it tested I will follow up with a response.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
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I'm sorry and I don't want to be mean but if your not familiar with the term "compression test" then you will really would need to recruit some experienced help because this diagnosis will be far beyond your abilities.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
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If you don't get the correct fuelpressure the injectors dont' ork right causing a very lean condition, hence a misfire.
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Monday, February 11th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM (Merged)

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