Car stalls while idling or driving

Thanks for replying. The weather hasn't been good lately, so I haven't had a chance to work on the car. But I had checked the fuel pressure, it had fuel. I did not check for fire. Before I changed the computer out (I had the computer on hand) it would run about two minutes or so, now it only runs for 15 to 30 seconds then stalls. I will check for fire then get back to you.
Thanks, Donn-1

Thanks for your reply, no it is not an OEM or brand name crank sensor aftermarket part. It is a cheap online part. I have't checked the spark yet, weather has been bad. But I will check it. I checked the switch method of codes, I get a 12, 11, 33, 42, and 55 codes. Now after changing out the PCM and crank sensor, car runs good approx. 15-30 seconds then stalls. Before I changed crank sensor and PCM, it ran several minutes and sometimes until operating temp and beyond before stalling. When this problem first begun I was approx. 10 miles from home at a store. I drove to this store without any problems. When I left this store I drove approx. 100 to 200 ft then it stalls. After a few minutes of rest it started, then I drove another few hundred feet at stop sign- it stalled. This time when I restarted I did not let up on gas, traveling about 25 to thirty miles an hour. Running through traffic lights and stop signs I finally made it home where it sits. I thought it may be the fuel pump, I hooked up a tester and cranked the engine (prier to replacing parts) pressure was constant 40 psi. When it stalled I tried to restart but would not start. Fuel pressure rose to 50 psi (I figured the fuel pressure regulator, not running caused this) also the green cruise control light came on. After a few minutes car would restart. Sorry about the long reply, I thought I would relay all I encountered thus far. Thanks Donn-1

Thank you for the reply. I since disconnected the battery and restarted the engine, I let it run at 3,000 rpm's for about two minutes, then dropped down to 2,500 rpm's until it stalled after approximately two more minutes. I then rechecked the codes they read 12, 11, 55. I rechecked them they read the same. I thought about the new sensor being bad, how ever the existing sensor did the same, what are the odds of both sensors being bad? I replaced the PCM only because I had another one I had bought awhile ago at a good price. I do not like throwing parts at something to fix it. I bought the new sensor because it was a cheap try. A OEM sensor is expensive, which would be one thing if needed, but not when unsure. I thought about the sensor how it worked, I thought it was a magnetic switch, when the flywheel solid passed under the sensor, the steel would cause the sensor to close (or open), when the slots passed under the sensor the switch would release thus creating a pulse signal to the PCM. I will test this theory with the extra sensor.
I still do not know why the fuel pump continues to run even though the engine has stalled. After several minutes with the ignition off, then turned on, pump runs, then stops, as it should. I thought when the engine is not running, crankshaft sensor would relay the signal or (lack of one) to the PCM and PCM would shut down ASD relay and fuel pump relay, thus stopping fuel pump.
I noticed standing at the relay box, when engine stalled. I heard and felt the ASD relay and fuel pump relay clicking on and off, thus keeping fuel pump activated, that suggests the PCM (but it is new, same thing happened with old one), maybe wiring or socket then? What are your thoughts? I appreciate your help.
Donn-1

Thanks for the reply. The weather has turned to rain again, so I must wait. I will get back as soon as I can. I will then check the wiring and socket to the crankshaft sensor.
Thanks Donn-1

Donn-1, hey Joe, the weather finally turned good. While I was waiting, I ordered another crankshaft sensor, a brand name, also I ordered a camshaft sensor. They arrived Monday the 24th. I tried to start the car, it would't start. The fuel pump continued to run. I installed the two sensors then tried to start. To my surprise it started. I let it run for about ten minutes or so until it reached operating temperature. I shut it off then re-cranked it. It had to be one of the sensors. You was right about the crankshaft sensor, I had a thought about reinstalling the original camshaft sensor, just to rule out the camshaft sensor. I will test drive the car tomorrow and see if it is fixed. I will post back. Thanks, Don

Update: I test drove the eagle today, Drove about 2 or three miles. It ran good, no problems. When I have a need, I will drive further. One thing that puzzles me, is before I changed the sensors, The car wouldn't start, and the ASD relay would keep clicking and the fuel pump kelp running, due to the ASD relay not turning off. I think the PCM would lock up (due to the crankshaft sensor being bad) and that caused the problem with both relays clicking. What do you think? I want to thank you for all of your help. Don