Car stalls when hot

Hello,

This sounds like you have a engine coolant temperature sensor that is not working right or a vacuum leak but we should run the codes to see what is going on first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Ken

Do you mean it runs okay while the engine is cool and shuts down when it warms up or that it runs fine when it is cool outside but shuts down when the temperature rises?

If it is the first one I would suspect a failing crankshaft position sensor. A common pattern of failure is that they will work okay while cold but as they heat up they fail and the engine shuts down.

If it is the second situation I would check the fuel pressure to see if it is putting out enough pressure to avoid vapor locking. The sputter and stall would coincide with the lack of fuel.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Will it start back up immediately or do you have to wait for it to cool down?

That usually will not be exhaust. With a bad/plugged converter it will not rev up regardless of operating temperature. It would start and idle but as soon as you step on the throttle it will lose power. It also would not change when it got to a certain temperature.

The description sounds like a temperature sensitive crankshaft position sensor. As it warms up it starts to fail. Common failure mode right up until they fail completely. The easy way to test it would be to run it until it stalls and then spray a bit of starting spray into the intake and try to start it. If it is the crank sensor it will be losing spark and will not run. If it is a fuel problem it will run on the fluid. My bet is it will not run. Crank sensors also do not tend to set a code unless they are erratic like a bad wire or low signal.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

A is the camshaft position sensor.
B is the 3X crankshaft position sensor
C is the 24X crankshaft position sensor.

To answer the question, B&C are the common culprits. To narrow it down. Go get a can of "canned air", "computer duster" or whatever the name you use for the stuff in the pictures.
Part A is mounted in the engine just to the side of the intake manifold. As shown in the third image
Part B is mounted into the side of the engine facing the firewall as shown in image 4.
Part C is mounted at the front of the engine behind the crankshaft pulley as shown in the last image.
My first suspect would be Part C followed by Part B as both of those control the ignition.

So put on a glove and start the engine as it warms up and starts to sputter you will take the canned air, flip it upside down and spray the Part C sensor located behind the crankshaft pulley. If it starts to run better or if it stalls and you spray it and it starts up without cooling down you found the bad sensor.
Repeat the test on the other two sensors. Be careful as the material coming out of the can can instantly freeze your skin/eyes whatever. But it is a fast and lower cost test for an item that is heat sensitive.

Please do. ;)

No problem, we will be here.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help. Hope it cools down for ya ;)

Cheers, Ken

Strange it was the IAC, unless it was shorting when hot. I could see it being the ECT sensor.
Either way, if it is repaired that is a win.

Hard to say with parts these days. I generally use OEM parts simply to avoid issues. But have seen failures in both low cost and OEM parts. Sort of a toss up these days.

If you run into any other issues just come on back, we will be here.
Thank you for using 2CarPros.