My engine stalls after driving for a while

Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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Most likely you have an ignition problem (ignitor).

While it could also be fuel, the infrequent event sounds more like the ignitor.

Some autoparts stores can test them, call and ask.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUPERLEGGERANAT
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I have a '94. With the exact same problem. I was just on this site double checking how to change my fuel filter when I ran across your question. Has anything you've tried fixed it?
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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If (when it shuts off) it acts as though the key was turned off, it may be the ign. Switch.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAJINTHARA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 22,300 MILES
I have a 1993 corolla with 223,000 miles on it. All original engine and transmission. I was wondering when my engine or tranny would die? I noticed that whenever I start it up from a cold start a white puff of smoke comes out of teh muffler. I think I may be burning oil or leaking oil from teh inside of teh engine. My engine also feels sluggish, I did a tune up and timing belt change at 200,000 miles. Is this condition dangerous or could it worsten? I.E. Engine blow up or breathing in bad fumes while driving, I am concerned since my wife is pregnant. I do not want to spend soo much on engine work butn let the corolla "die" Someone else told me to check my oil level and coolant level every now and then because white smoke means that moisture is leaking into the engine from the radiator causing irreversible harm to the pistons and head, valves, gaskets etc. I also had radiator and hoses replaced about a year ago at Sears so it may have not been a qualityy job either.

JOhn Kutty
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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If you are sure it is white smoke and not blue, then most likely it is a head gasket problem. A compression test would confirm this.

Blue smoke on startup is valve stem seals, which is totally normal on a car this old.

Perform a compresion test to rule out/in head gasket.

If head gasket, then it should be replaced, just did one 2 weeks ago for a friend, about an 8 hour job (I'm old and slow :) ).
Replace head bolts as well, and thermostat.

Valve stem seals require a special tool set.

I would not be concerned about fumes, unless you have an exhaust leak. So check exhaust system.

I probably would not let my wife drive it because of the possible headgasket failure, which would leave her stranded.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAJINTHARA
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How did my head gasket get bad and how much you think it will cost me? Was I leaking oil or someone told me that moisture from the radiator was leaking into the engine. I am waiting for my engine to die adn drive it to the ground.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
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You need to perform a compression test to confirm headgasket.

They generally fail because of overheating the engine, and warp. But head bolts can also break causing a failure.

Headgasket repair (if head is not warped) is around $800-1000.

Don't send it to the junkyard yet.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GUNSUP1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
The car listed above (a-fe) quit running suddenly while being driven normally. Cranks but will not start. No spark, no fuel, strong battery. NO MIL light (check engine) and no codes stored. MIL light does not illuminate. Bulb is good. Mechanic said there was power to ECM but no output. Said it needed new ECM but could not warrant it. She cannot afford $1,300.00 replacement cost. No obvious damage to ECM or wiring. I can replace, but first I would like to verify that the ECM has failed. I have it out and have access to the connectors. It is not my car so I do not want to waste her money if it is not the ECM. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
You can get a used ECM for about a $100.00 I would go that way instead. The only way to check if the ECU is bad is to do a wiring check which I can give you instructions on if you respond back.

Cheers, Ken
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+1
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GUNSUP1
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Thanks Ken, I have ordered a used one. The mechanics she took it to are reliable and warned her that something else like a sensor shorted out may have caused the ECM to fail. That is why they could not warrant it. This is a 1993 OBD1. I do not see that happening but then again I have never had an ECM go bad. I know a lot of folks blame them but I find it is usually something simpler. Is there anything I should test before trying the used one? Also, where can I find a diagram for the connectors? I would like to jumper the power in to the MIL lamp out to confirm the mil lamp is working. The ECM is 89661-02090 engine is a 7A-FE. Thanks.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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It could be a sensor causing the issue. I would disconnect the oxygen and engine coolant temperature sensors to see if it comes back to life. (try starting it) Next I would check the fuses/EFI relay that power the system. Here are guides to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I would try unplugging the fuel injector one at a time and try and start it as well. If one is shorted it will shut down the ECM

Here is a guide to help you run the codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NAUTIKALHORIZON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES
My friend is having problems with her car cutting off when it gets to operating temperature. She will crank it back up and it will idle badly then shut off. After it cools it will crank up and run fine for 15 mins. The distributer has been replaced twice. Could it be the EGR or a plugged catalytic converter?
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
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Symptomatic of a bad ignition module, was a new ign. Module included with new dist. Or did you re-use old one?

If new module, then I would suspect either EGR or convertor.

You can unbolt convertor and inspect it, Material insde should look like a honeycomb, if melted/cracked, the convertor would need to be replaced.

If convertor is OK, then remove the EGR valve and clean the pintle and base, also make sure the vacuum line to it is not leaking. An EGR that is leaking will cause engine to stall (at idle or low speed) and cause starting driveability problems.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NAUTIKALHORIZON
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Thanks for the quick response. I will check the suggested problems and give you an update. And, yes, the new distributor came with a new ignition module.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GEET
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Hi tell your friend to use a scan tool to diagnose your coolant sensor any any other sensors. Replace those faulty
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)

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