My engine shuts off after you drive it awhile?

Hi,

Does the temperature gauge go into the hot range even though you feel it isn't actually overheating? If it does, that sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is bad or has a bad connection.

The sensor is on the front left of the intake manifold. Check to make sure the wiring to it is in good condition, not loose, and not damaged. I attached a picture to help you locate it. If the vehicle's computer things the engine is running too hot, it will go into a limp mode and shut down.

Also, there are other things that follow similar conditions. The crankshaft position sensor can cause the engine to stall when it warms up. This can happen when the sensor begins to fail, and once the sensor cools off, the engine will start again. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know. Also, please confirm that I am understanding correctly that although the gauge in the vehicle indicates it's overheating, in reality, it isn't.

Take care,
Joe

Hi dogg pound,

Have the Crankshaft Position Sensor checked. It needs a minimum resistance to electrical flow or it will cause the igniition to shut down.

TakeChargeSarge

Hi misterme79,

The answer is "Crankshaft Position Sensor".

Yours is almost the exact story I was telling anyone who would listen to me when my car's engine was dying almost every day. Most times it was when I was on my way home from work (20 minute drive).
There was no warning and it almost seemed that someone was turning the ignition switch off.

The mechanic I found took the car and did diagnostics (no problems according to the computer). After two days he finally got the engine to die, but instead of troubleshooting, he started it up again and it wouldn't die again. The following day, it died, he did the troubleshooting, decided the ignition module must be intermittent, and replaced the ignition module. The car started and ran fine. The next day, he called and I thought he was going to tell me to come and get my car but, instead, he told me that he thought my car was possessed. After the laugh, he told me that the engine had died again and that the only thing left to look at was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. He removed the new ignition module, installed a new Crankshaft Position Sensor. The car started and the engine didn't die.
The next day, he started and ran the car and the engine didn't die, so he called and told me to come get my car. It has been over three years now and the car has not failed to start, stay running, and has not died except when the ignition switch is turned to the "OFF" position.

Good luck with the other problems. They may or may not be corrected by changing the sensor. Also,
GM didn't do us any favors by removing the heat shields and replacing them with lousy ignition wire clips. I am still steamed about that one. Not much of a fix.

Regards,

TakeChargeSarge

Misterme79,

I forget the exact amount, but it was less than $300 and that included the diagnosis. The current price for the part is $35 to $40 depending on the manufacturer. The part can be purchased online. A GM dealership or neighborhood parts store will probably be considerably more.

TakeChargeSarge

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

What was the exact code number being stored and is it still being stored.

That's not a MAF code at all. That is a lean code that could be due to any number of things. The first thing I would be looking for is a vacuum leak or air leak from the intake snorkel.

I would replace the MAF sensor

Your welcome