My engine stalls at idle?

Okay PATTY789

This will sorta guide you to what you have to do, it is really easy to do!

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

My wife's is on the top of the engine and has 2 bolts.

Our Escape would idle low, then it got to point it would die when you stopped. Revving + holding brake was only way to keep it running.

Took it to fellow R/C airplane pilot, he doubles as a S.C. State HWY DEPT mechanic.

When I got to his house, he was repairing a tractor. Told him my sob story. Escape was still barely running, I raised the hood.

He said, (and I quote)."It could be the Idle Air Control (IAC)", as he pointed to it, and emphasized it with a sharp rap using the wrench in his hand.

By golly it straightened right up, and ran darn good.

That was a 15/16 Craftsman wrench, box end, kinda a medium rap. LOL!

We removed and cleaned it, it may have gone on being Fine, for a lot longer. Since it was my wife's, I took no chances, with my Well-Being.

YES, I visited parts store and replaced it, figured it had 100,000 miles on it, and constantly was a moving part, replacement of this component, was just preventative maintenance in my eyes.

Hope this helps. Hope I am dead on! Cleaning would be free, and at least Maybe eliminate this factor out of the equation.

You can go on with yours (if it's working well now and replace it later, if you have the same feelings about it as I did.

I looked up a new one at Advance Auto Parts for your vehicle. There was one for about $79.00 if you do need one.

A few pictures of the wife's below, yours is very similar.

Please let us know how this goes.

xiac

The Medic

Is the check engine light on? If ir is, we need the codes.

Look for vacuum leaks around the pcv. Common for splitting at the elbow causing massive vacuum leak

Roy

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked the idle air control valve? Has the EGR been checked as well as checking for vacuum leaks?

If you need directions to check the pump on your own, let me know.

If the check engine light is on, read the codes, read em anyway, sometimes there is freeze frame data that will tell you what specifically happened, if nothing found check the Idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttle body. Get a can of spray gumout, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs!

OK, let us know how it goes.

When the IAC sticks, it's a vacuum leak!

Hi,

Has the check engine light stayed on when the engine was running? If it has, then you should have the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a quick video that shows how it's done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a auto parts store will do it free of charge. So if the light stays on, have that done.

I have to be honest. What you described sounds like an issue with what is called an idle air control valve (IAC). The IAC is what is responsible for maintaining engine idle speed. Also, when you turn the AC on, it should react by increasing the idle speed to accommodate the added load.

Please understand I am mentioning the IAC based on the symptoms. You can try to service it. It is located on the throttle body. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

If you find it is bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

___________________________________________________

Here are the directions for replacement specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

2000 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E
Procedures
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
REMOVAL

NOTE: The 5.0L is shown, the 4.0L SOHC and the 4.0L (push rod) engines are similar.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Battery.

pic 1

2. Remove the accelerator control snow shield.

pic 2

3. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector.

pic 3

4. Remove the IAC valve and discard the gasket.

INSTALLATION
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

NOTE: Install a new IAC valve gasket.

_______________________________________________

Let me know if this helps. Also, if you find there are diagnostic trouble codes, let me know what they are. We'll work through it together.

Take care,
Joe

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

If you dont have an engine light on, I would check the fuel pressure regulator and the idle air control valve. Let me know what you find

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm