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Not cranking

Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
About six months ago to a year my starter went out on my truck. I bought a new starter then took it to the shop due to it being cheaper and had them replace it. When I got home the truck had issues starting and was dropping down to eight volts from thirteen volts standing. The truck did start and this continued, I changed out batter cables, cleaned connections, bought a new batter, new alternator and even took the starter off after I figured out how and checked the connections to see what was wrong. The connections to the starter was good so I took the starter up had it tested at three different shops, they said it was good. Now my truck just will not start. I checked the teeth to the fly wheel and it does not sound like it has frozen up at all. Really really stuck and not sure what to do! Please Help! video of what is happening https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi6zWnAzGlo&feature=youtu.be
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Sunday, September 11th, 2016 AT 6:25 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Actually shims make it quieter when it turns over but it may help. If it does not turn over at all check battery for condition including load test most places do for free.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 6:42 AM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Yes I did that. It is a brand new battery also new cables, new starter, new alternator. Review video for how it sounds and what all I have done to it so far.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It comes up with over a hundred videos under that voltage will normally drop at least two volts when you start a car/truck unless its 'been modified, check ground on engine as well as body for corrosion also due to age of truck i'd suggest running another ground from engine to frame as well as body as there may have been grounds removed like ones off of back of cylinder head to body. That is one of the most common grounds removed and never put back on. It may be due to this.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
And yes it is new battery cables that are ran positive and negative even to the starter. I also cleaned where it attaches to the frame the grounds. Two go to my frame and one to the engine for the grounds. I cleaned all three where they attach to.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 7:39 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
How about battery to body and engine to body?
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Where would that ground be located? The only grounds I see from engine is one to battery then one that goes from engine to starter.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I will search when I get home and update will come back then. Thanks
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 12:14 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
I already said where the ground was in an earlier reply. Also just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's any good. Have a load test done on it. Then have a mechanic do a draw test on starter. A lot of times auto parts check it and it's no good as well.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Yes sir, thank you.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Okay test done on both and both were good. Battery recharged aswell, put them both back in. Recleabing ground connectiions in a moment.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
This is the only other I could find attached to the frame is this the other ground?
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
That is a body ground not frame just turn one to the frame. This should really be checked out by a pro instead of these endless emails. When the battery was load tested how far did voltage drop? If it went below 9 volts the battery Is bad and it should read at least 12.4 volts when at a low charge if it reads below then it's bad.
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
MORDACAIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Thanks for your help
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Monday, September 12th, 2016 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Wednesday, September 14th, 2016 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
TOLUCA1003
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
95 Chevy S10 2.2L Engine, auto trans. Was running fine then one day it would not start. It cranks but doesn't start. I checked for gas and spark and they were fine. When I removed the Spark Plugs they were wet with gas. I just replaced them and tried again and nothing. Checked Spark Plugs and they are wet again. Replaced the orings on the injectors and nothing. Checked for any codes on Computer and there's none. Any recomendations as to what to check next?
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Friday, May 17th, 2019 AT 7:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If you think the spark is fine it has to be a large blue spark. Check your crank an dcam sensors.
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Friday, May 17th, 2019 AT 7:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SURFERJOE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 18,000 MILES
I turn the key and I'll have dash lights but engine wont crank. If I push start it or jump it, the truck will act fine for a day or so. I have a New Battery, and a new ignition switch have already been installed. When the switch was instslled the truck was fine for 3 days. Then back to the same problems.
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Saturday, May 18th, 2019 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then use the test light to check the clutch switch. Should haev power on one side, then the other when the clutch is pushed in
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Saturday, May 18th, 2019 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SETUBAK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
Prior to the way it is now you could rock the ignition switch back and forth a few times and it would start, now however the only way to start it is to push start the truck, or to run a direct wire from the battery to the starter silonide and removing it once it starts. Prior to my problems the ignition switch and the black box with the wires were replaced brand new, about a year later is when this problem started. I have checked and had tested the starter and solenoid they were both fine, the clutch pedal safty switch is working fine, the battery is only 6 months old, I have ran out of ideas on this problem if you can help it would be grately appreciated. :
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Saturday, May 18th, 2019 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
I will tell you this, if the positions on the switch work, acc, on, start springs back to on, then you may have a bad fusible link, tug on the thin wires that connect to the starter, if they stretch, replace the link! If the switch position dont work replace the switch.
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Saturday, May 18th, 2019 AT 11:02 AM (Merged)

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