Car jerks and misfires?

Tiny
W5MEC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 61,000 MILES
Car quit running yesterday. Son heard all sorts of knocking, loss of pwr. Turned if off, ckd oil (good) and and called for help. By the time I arrived, car was cool. Stuck in key and it fired right up, ran fine. Follow him home for about 2 miles then problem came back. Engine misfiring. Knocking noise too, but probably from motor mounts. We towed it home. Went out this morning and it fired right up, ran fine. Drove around w/no issues at all. Can't reproduce. Intermittent problem. MIL is not on either.

Thinking a "soft" coil, perhaps even crank/cam sensor issue(s). Any thoughts or troubleshooting tips to share?
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
The knocking has me concerned. Was there any smoke from the exhaust when this was happening?
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
W5MEC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The knocking only occurs when the engine is misfiring. I believe that's coming from one of the rear motor mounts (the car has been wrecked in the front before). There is no smoke from the exhaust when this happens.

After a bit of checking, I think this issue came about as 1) some bad gas (water) and 2) perhaps a sticky injector. I treated the fuel with the typical water absorb / fuel injector cleaner. I drove it for over 40 miles today and it hasn't exhibited any misfiring issues at all.

Odd part of all this is that the check engine light never was tripped. I'd think that any type of misfire would have tripped the check engine light, but perhaps that only happens when there is an electrical misfire.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAINTMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
This problem is gradually getting worse. The engine is shuddering at irregular intervals when cold, especially idling or when accelerating. The engine almost stalled today when I was at the lights.

However, when the engine is warm, it runs smoothly. It was serviced only a month ago and spark plugs were replaced. Since the symptoms are very specific, I hope someone smart can narrow down the possibilities.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Can you get a scan done to see if it is a specific cylinder or a random misfire? This will help with finding a solution.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,323 POSTS
It sounds like you have an ignition coil that is going out, is the check engine light on? Pull the codes to see what comes up.

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BAZSPAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
I used a Acron CP1980 Scranner and got codes P0300 P3001 and P0302 Which
are multiple and misfires in cylinders 1 and 2. The car runs fine untill it warms up then it misfires. The spark plugs were just replaced. It ran fine after they were replaced but this problem started shortly after.
Could this be the Fuel pump located in the tank.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
You would have to perform a fuel pressure test to rule out/in fuel as problem.

Could also be a weak coil.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BAZSPAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Isn't there a fuel sensor that should give you a ODB II code on your reader if the problem were fuel related. Like low pressure from the fuel pump or injectors malfunctioning. There is a fuel sensor reading on my Acutron 1980. It just sais Fuel Sensor OK. I think the problem is with one of the 1ZZ-FE coils that sit over the spark plugs. Is there a way to test them using a ohm meter. For say one with a colapsing coil.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Another way to check fuel is to spray starting fluid in TB. If it runs a few seconds, then a fuel problem, if not then ignition.

You can measure primary and secondary resistance with an Ohm meter for coils, frankly not a very accurate procedure.

Shops can test actual coil output in voltage.

You can also switch coils and if miss follows coil, then coil is bad.

Fuel pressure is not monitored by PCM, would probably be a good idea, but cost to monitor would be a factor.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BAZSPAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for the info on the fuel testing what's the TB.
I think I fixed the problem but don't understand why.
When I purchased the $3 NGK's they said to gap at.44 So I opened them up.10 from there factory setting and installed them and shortly after I had the problems with the car. To repair the car I pulled them and went to.38 gap and the problems almost gone. I bet if I go to the original.35 there will be no problem. Now its great though. I also pulled the springs apart inside the Coil housing so they would make better contact. These plugs being platnum I don't think they should have been gapped at all but the auto parts store said they had to be. I think the.44 would be for standard large electrode plugs.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
TB = Throttle Body

Gapping is directly related to coil output in voltage. The more voltage the more gap (generally). Compression is also a factor or devices that effect cylinder pressure, like a turbo. High cylinder pressures would require less gap.
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+1
Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 24,000 MILES
Engine seems to miss when you go up hills and you pressdown slowly for more fuel as you do all at once it takes off and you have lots of power, some times its ok but 75% of the time not good also hard on fuel when this happens.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do you have a check engine light?

Have the exhaust system checked for restriction and fuel pressure, also go to these links: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough and https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZDUFFY2419
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 173,000 MILES
Hi, so I've owned this car for close to a year. Always trying to keep up on maintenance to it and fixing problems
2 days ago I had replaced the PCV valve and hose then the next day drove about 50 miles to Riverside and back another 50 home. Today when I was out and about I decided to check my check engine light (I have a code but already know it and the solution) but now I have a random misfire and cylinder 1, 3, and 4 are also misfiring

I checked all plugs and hoses I touch while working on other things that day (suspension stuff) and all are plugged in and attached.

It ran pretty bad this morning (it was colder then normal this morning) the idle was worse then normal and it was shaking a good bit but once it got up to temperature it ran perfect it didn't feel like anything was missing or running oddly.
I would definitely appreciate any aid you guys and or gals can give. Thank you
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Can you give a little more detail on what the issue is with the PCV? Did you replace it just because it was time or was there an issue?

We need to check for a vacuum leak as that is the most likely cause of this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Anytime we have a misfire on multiple cylinders (p0300) and then more then one cylinder with hard misfire codes (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304) it is normally something that effects all cylinders equally, like air or fuel.

Due to the recent repair to the PCV we need to start with air side by checking for a vacuum leak.

Let us know about this and we can go from there. Thanks
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZDUFFY2419
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
When I bought it a year ago I asked what all had been replaced recently to know where my tune up and fact checking begin (to see if he actually replaced those items) which he did but the PCV valve wasn't one and I normally do it on any vehicle I buy it's inexpensive and generally simple.
It may be that my computer hasn't registered all the monitors? But I'll definitely check the vacuum tomorrow morning unfortunately I am at work at the moment and unable to do so now, but any other advice you could give is definitely welcomed.
Do you have a preferred way to check for vacuum leaks?

Update you tomorrow, thank you.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
The only way the monitors would be an issue is if they were cleared using a scan tool or you disconnected the battery for longer then an hour.

I highly suspect you will find there is a large vacuum leak with this. Check out this guide. It gives the detail on how to check it. Basically it is using parts cleaner and listening for the RPM to raise.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JTWINSFAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 66,000 MILES
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with 66,000 miles on it. When accelerating my car, it becomes bumpy between 20-40 miles per hour. I don’t notice this happening while on the highway. I’ve had a couple of mechanics tell me they think it could be either the coil pack, spark plugs or fuel filter. I have 2 questions. First, how can I test the coils and spark plugs to see if they are good or bad and second, do you have any other suggestions on what might be the problem? Thanks for your help!
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MLDANIELS2000
  • MECHANIC
  • 227 POSTS
Check tires for bulges or cupping (uneven wear across outside to inside of tire tread with high spots). Iridium spark plugs are used in all toyota engines since 2002 from factory which should last 100,000 miles. Check engine light would illuminate with a misfire code if it was bad plugs or coil pack. Shaking within the indicated speeds is most commonly a tire has thrown a weight or is separating.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:52 PM (Merged)

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