Engine is misfiring and jerking?

I own a 1995 Toyota Corolla 160iGLE (South African make) model AE92-R. Recently, the engine started misfiring when its cold ****** when I start and go). I contacted mechanics to have a look at it several times but nothing has changed. I have so far replaced (changed) the following, fuel filter, fuel pump, throttle sensor, idle switch, condensor, spark plugs and now am being told to replace ignitor. I have the feeling that the technicians have run out of ideas. This is my dream car which I would like to see it grounded hence am asking for you opinion.

I do remember very well the mechanic did sprayed the carburator cleaner around the inlet manifold when he was replacing the idle switch. Take note that the misfiring only occurs when I start the engine and slightly rev the engine (1500- 2500rpm) and after 5 to 10 minutes warm up the misfiring stops, BUT still hesitates when I start moving till temp reaches normal. Am sorry for not giving you a clear picture in the first place. What and where are MAP/MAF ECT
sensors located? Am sorry am not a technician myself.

My 95 Corolla needed a new left axel a month ago. $220 and new axel solved clunking noise. It was also running rough. My Mechanic added "professional strength fuel injector cleaner" supposedly 90% proof at $9/can instead of consumer grade 2-4% product.
After one day, the engine starts to runs like a top.
Two months later, car begins to miss and not develop power when stopped at light, or parked up hill. Barely makes it to top, and except for gravity, might never get back up to speed. Gas mileage goes out the window: Less than 15 mpg and gas @$3.30 seems like $7/gal I think it's running on two cylinders, but without warning, will clear itself at 60 mph on level highway and run well for 15 miles or so.
Suddenly, or at a stop light, loss of power, and mileage suffers again. My mechanic has retired due to cancer, & can't help. I've replaced air filter, spark plugs & a fresh tank of gas. I have a fuel filter I could try to replace this weekend, as I have some limited mechanical ability. I change the 10W30 oil every 3000-4000 miles plus oil filter, but the engine uneeds another 1 quart every 1000 miles. Also, an idiot light "Check Engine" lit in the dash yesterday, but went out after 80 miles today. A burning rubber smell accompnied the first recent lack of power and the car smelled hot in the garage. What do you suggest I do? I need this car for daily 40 mile one way highway commute to work, returning AFTER MIDNIGHT! Thanks.

Timing Belt was replaced at 121K miles. So it shouldn't be a problem.

Mhpautos, coolant temp sensor was a the first to replace when the whole thing started. I will try ECU setting. Keep you in touch. Thank you so much for your help.

Mhpautos, the coolant temp sensor was the first to be replaced when the whole thing started. I will check the ECU setting. Thank you very much for your help and I will keep you updated.

I just put in regular gas when my tank is almost emty and afterwards my engine began to misfire

While driving, the car missed and a check engine light threw and then would be fine. But then it would miss again and it would stall and take awhile to start back. It has a brand new distributer, ignition coil, plugs and wires. What would cause the car not to start anymore?

Hello,
I just bought a used 1993 Corolla. I pressure washed the engine compartment, afterwards I had to dry out the distributor cap because of moisture that caused a miss/no power. That seemed to have fixed the problem. I got home and parked, came out a little later and started the car. It had the same symptoms as it had with the moisture inside the distributor cap, engine miss/no power. I checked the dist. Cap and whatever else I could think of, but couldn't find the problem. Can you give me some ideas?

I have a toyota sprinter with 5afe engine that stopped, check and had no spark, replaced the distributor with another but the timing mark is 40deg atdc, so took out the dizzy retaining bolt and turned the dizzy around till it was on 10deg btdc, the bolt is no where near the slots to hold it in, and when I rev the engine there is no advance, it actually retards the spark (due to no advance) it just stays where it is set eg 10deg this is when te1 and e1 are shorter out and not shorted out) there are no codes in computer. I have tried 3 dizzys all exactly the same number as original one. I have tried 3 ecu's of the same number. All produce same results, needs dizzy to be advanced miles to run. Timing belt is spot on, harmonic balancer is correct. I set ignition timing at 10deg then turned off enginethen turned the crank to 10deg and took the dizzy cap off and the reluctor wheel is about half way from where it is supposed to be when triggering, ? How can it run there, I pulled the dizzy out and turned by hand and it fires the coil when reluctor wheel is just passing the pick up. Where is the advace? What can I try? So to recap tried 3 dizys and 3 ecus all from running cars. Still needs dizzy advance miles and still no advace when reving. (Btw coil and ignitor is in the dizzy and so is replaced with every dizzy)

No it is fine. the crank to cam to distributor timing is all spot on. if you take the plugs out and wind over by hand it fires at correct time, im going to check all the power inputs and earths on the computer today, will also check map sensor input and output signals.

It has a toyota ESA (electronic spark advance) system and only has a g1 sensor it the distributor, if this helps at all.