Where are the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors located?

Tiny
PAM CROSS KLINGAMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER
  • 300 MILES
Location of cam and cps.
Monday, February 3rd, 2025 AT 10:51 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,070 POSTS
Need to know which engine you have. There were three, and the ignition systems are very different. What kind of problem are you trying to solve?
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Monday, February 3rd, 2025 AT 2:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAM CROSS KLINGAMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
2.5 engine periodically stops and won’t start again, check engine light is on.
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Monday, February 3rd, 2025 AT 2:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,070 POSTS
The first step is to read and record the diagnostic fault code(s). That gives us a place to start, but be aware, codes for cam and crank position sensors often don't set just by cranking the engine. They often need more time to be detected, as when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. For that reason, don't assume one of those sensors is okay just because there's no code set related to them.

Your engine uses a distributor pickup assembly which has a very well-known failure history. If there's no fault code related to it, the best clue is there will be no spark, no injector pulses, and after the fuel pump runs for one second when the ignition switch is turned to "run", it will not resume running during engine rotation, (cranking or running). These can also be intermittent and fail while driving, then they may work gain after cooling down for about a hour.

Another test you can perform is to watch if the automatic shutdown, (ASD), relay is turning on. That's what powers up the ignition coil, injector, and fuel pump or pump relay. An old-fashioned test light with an incandescent bulb works best for this test because digital voltmeters usually respond too slowly. Instead, you can also listen for the hum of the fuel pump. Look for the wire that is the same color at the ignition coil and injector. For most Chrysler products, that is a dark green / orange wire. Since they're easy to get to on this engine, you can also use either of the two smaller terminals on the back of the alternator. You will see the test light turn on for one second when you turn the ignition switch to "run". If you can hear it, the fuel pump will run at the same time. That proves the ASD relay and circuitry are okay. What's important is the test light must turn on again during cranking. If it does not, it is almost always due to the loss of signal pulses from the distributor pickup assembly.

Failure of the pickup assembly was so common, many people carried spares in the glove box. To replace it, remove the two screws for the black plastic water shield in front of the distributor. Remove the distributor cap, then the rotor, then lift the plastic disc off. It has a pigtail wire with a three-wire connector. Drop the new one in and reassemble the distributor.

Do you know how to read the fault codes? If not, I can describe it to you. Let me know what you have for codes.
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Monday, February 3rd, 2025 AT 2:23 PM (Merged)

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