Camshaft position sensor code?

Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 380,000 MILES
Hi, engine threw a cam sensor code, changed the sensor problem did not go away. Noticed I had a lot of oil leaking so I changed the timing belt because it had a lot of oil on it and since I was in there I fixed the oil leak (oil pump o-ring), changed the water pump and put in new idlers. My battery was very weak so I put in a new battery. After erasing code it stayed off until next day on cold start. I erased the code again but as long as it didn't cool off the code stayed away. The next day it threw the code again on first start of the day. The temperature outside is about -10 Celsius so that's what I mean by cold start. I had it parked in a garage (temperature about 0 Celsius) and the code didn't come up until after I went to work and started it after it sat outside for 4 hours, the code is back. I'm confused and not sure what to check since it doesn't throw any other codes. Any ideas?
Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 12:33 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Can you let us know which code it is? I am sure we can figure something out. Normally these codes have 3 causes. Either the sensor, wiring, or the control module. There are others depending on which code it is so let's start with that. Thanks
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
ISLE
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The code that keeps coming up is P0340.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Okay. Great. That is the most common cam sensor code and you are not wrong that it is usually the sensor. However, when that doesn't fix it we need to inspect the wiring and then if that is okay then the ECM is the issue.

You can read through this info and then the testing but basically this test is telling you that the ECM did not get a cam sensor signal. That is either because the sensor is failed, the wiring can't carry the signal or the ECM is failed.

Run through the testing but I suspect step 2 will be your issue. If not, then unfortunately you may need an ECM.
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Wednesday, January 1st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Thank you, that's what I was afraid of. I took a look at the ECM, which plug is it? Can I test the wiring for ohms to see if there is a short and would I have to unplug the cam sensor also because it looks like they share a wire?
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Wednesday, January 1st, 2020 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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Yes. You can test them by ohm or resistance from the sensor to the ECM. I am not sure which connector it is but it should have 12 wires on it.

This means you need to put one lead at each connector on the same wire. You should have less than an ohm per wire.
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Wednesday, January 1st, 2020 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Well thank you very much. I will let you know what I find. It might be a few days or so before I get back to you but thanks again.
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Wednesday, January 1st, 2020 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
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Not a problem. We will be here whenever you get to it. Thanks
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Thursday, January 2nd, 2020 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Hi I called about an ECM (used one) and they had all kinds of questions about what the car had and mine is very basic and I don't know if it's japan built or if it has federal or California emissions. My car also does not have anti-theft so is the plug configuration at the ECM different than the picture you sent me. Would you need the serial number from it, because they were saying they would have to run the serial number to make sure they gave me the right ECM.
The black/white wire is not where the diagram shows it to be, it's the 5th wire up from the one end, the blue one is different also. The b/w wire had continuity from end to end and not to anything else so i'm guessing it's probably okay but I want to check the resistance yet. The blue one I could not get continuity thru it but when I plugged it back into the computer and checked it to the body it did. I would've done more but my health is not that great so hopefully you can be patient with me. I would like to figure this out myself instead of taking it somewhere since finances are a little tight. Thanks for helping!
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If they are able to run the VIN to get the right one that that would be sufficient.

Let's go with this wiring diagram because it has both locations for with immobilizer and without. You will follow the locations that I highlighted.

Then just run through this test. Looks like the only thing you have left is checking for a short to power and ground.

However, if you unplugged the wire from the cam sensor to the ECM and did not have continuity then that doesn't sound right. When you checked this did you have the meter leads on the same wire and at both ends at the sensor and ECM?
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
ISLE
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Thanks, I will give it a try.
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Tuesday, January 14th, 2020 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Sounds great. Let us know what happens.
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Tuesday, January 14th, 2020 AT 4:13 PM
Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Good day, so after going through everything that I could I finally took it to a shop and they put it on a scope, they found that the cam signal was very intermittent. It turns out the connection at the cam sensor was the problem, after adjusting the terminals of the plug the problem was gone. I want to say thank you to you guys for helping me with this. It's great to have someone to go to with stuff like this. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
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Thursday, March 26th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
That is great news. The connection issues are the hardest to find. So glad that it is resolved. Thanks for the update. We are here to help so please come back next time. Take care and stay healthy in this trying time!
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Thursday, March 26th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Hi guys, i'm back. Just want to update you on what's going on and got a question. So the problem was not solved, so I changed the plug at the cam sensor because that's what they thought it was. I erased the code and it came right back on again. When I get a chance I want to try and check the wires that go from the sensor to the ECM. I'm starting to think that the power wire is the problem and if it isn't that then there's just the ECM left, is there a way of testing the ECM? If I unplug the sensor and run the car would I be able to test for voltage coming from the ECM or how does that work? My wife says I should just forget about it and keep running it the way it is instead of putting more time or money into it. But you know how it is, it isn't right and there is always a reason and I have to find it. Haha. Thanks have a great evening!
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Tuesday, November 24th, 2020 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Good morning,

Remove the connector from the cam sensor and test for voltage with the key on.

Put your red lead from your meter to the 5 volt side and the black lead to the return to the ECM. Let me know the voltage you get on your meter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy
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Wednesday, November 25th, 2020 AT 2:15 AM
Tiny
ISLE
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Hi, sorry I just realized I had forgotten to let you know I fixed it. It turned out the coax is there for a reason. I had put a new wire on the end but I guess it was too long and different, it didn't have the coax style wire. After we shortened the new wire, it worked. Thanks.
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Tuesday, January 30th, 2024 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,431 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Thursday, February 1st, 2024 AT 11:32 AM

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