Engine stalls/not fuel problem

Sometimes it is not the sensor or module that is bad. It may be a wire that is bad on that sensor/module circuit so just replacing any sensor/module, scan again for codes and see if the related code is still there or came back and if the sensor/module was already replaced, then 99% of the time it is a wire that is bad, or a loose connection or rust inside the insulation of a wire or a loose rusted ground.
Let me know what codes you have after a ten minute test drive and if the engine stalls, stumbles, lacks power, etc, and the readings from all testers that you can get your hands on like I mentioned before.
You can check if even that ground cable is bad by checking the voltage drop on both ends.
To do so, hook the negative voltmeter test lead to the negative battery post and the positive voltmeter test lead on the end of that ground where is bolts to G111 and make sure the test lead touches the exposed copper wire strands or the connection on the end of that cable, in other words not the attaching nut or bolt. Now, start the engine and read the voltmeter, it should read 0.1 volts or less. If it reads anything, that is the amount of voltage drop across that ground circuit from that spot where the positive test lead is to the battery negative post because the voltmeter has less resistance to ground and whatever voltage that is lost across that circuit the voltmeter will pickup and display as a voltage drop.
Now move just the positive voltmeter test lead to the other end of that g111 circuit and do the test again. If that cable branches out to several parts, just find the end of that wire/cable to whichever part be it sensor or module that you still have a code for and check that ground wire/cable. So attach the positive test lead on any ground wire/cable end you want to test as close to the part as possible to recheck the ground voltage drop. It should read no more than 0.1 volts more than your other test, so 0.2 volts, anything well over that is the amount of voltage drop just on that ground wire/cable so if it reads, let's say 4 volts, you are loosing 4 volts along that cable/wire and could well be rust inside the insulation that ruined the copper wire strands or a mouse or small creature has chewed up the wire.

First thing is stop replacing parts, if need be save the money on buying an expensive pcm, instead purchase an Actron pocket code reader for $35.00. So you do not have to chance stalling while going to codes read by someone else.
Here are some: https://goo.gl/QE3hXh

Did anyone replace that harness that when it is moved you hear popping in the fuse box?
Has it stalled after purchasing your code reader? It might not have codes as long as it is running fine, but if it stalls again, it should store a code. Maybe someone erased them. Anyhow the next time it stalls see if there are any codes, and remember disconnecting the battery might erase all the codes, too.

Ask him if wiggling them same wires as before causes it to stumble, stall or make any popping noises, too.

You might want to see if the code reader will work while driving around, if so keep it plugged in until you find the problem. You may have to disconnect it when you exit the vehicle, but also add a fuel pressure gauge that you can watch and a ignition timing light just to see if you are loosing spark when it stall and/or a tachometer and watch it. Hook up a vacuum gauge too and a voltmeter up to first the fuel injector powered wire and/or the ignition to see if you are losing voltage from the ignition switch. When it stalls of course!

If the ignition control module came with the dielectric grease than you should use it. It helps dissipate heat and helps to prevent the module from burning up.

To me it sounds like the engine main relay is overheating and shutting off. Here is a guide and the location of the relay so you can run a test and replace the relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken