The engine should be warm after five minutes of driving, so I do not think the stalling is temperature related at all or even time related, probably just coincidence.
The best thing to do is hook up as many of these things as possible and take a test drive until it stalls and then immediately look to see if any testers have shown anything wrong but you have even have to catch it just before it stalls so having someone else in the passenger seat to watch all these tools, a tachometer, fuel pressure tester, scan tool with live scanning perhaps the fuel injector voltage, an ignition timing light to watch if spark is lost, a vacuum gauge to check if a sudden loss of engine vacuum is the culprit, which I doubt, a voltmeter to check if maybe the alternator stops working and the battery goes dead, but I doubt that too because if it cranks the starter over after the engine stalls it would not be that, but still you should hook up as many testers as you can get your hands on. You could also move the voltmeter over to any suspected circuits, such as that TPS and MAF and keep an eye on them to see if maybe their is a problem with the power circuit, cause sometime it is not a bad sensor, maybe a wire. If the code is still there or came back for the TPS and/or the MAF, check the ground circuit as well, it should read almost 0 volts hooked to the ground wire and the negative battery post to make sure the engine block and/or that G111 ground is okay. If the voltmeter reads anything over 0.2 volts, that is the amount of voltage you are loosing on the ground circuit. 12 volts on the ground circuit would mean the ground wire is not even hooked up, and let's say the ground voltage read 3 volts, that would mean perhaps the ground cable or ground wire might have broken copper wire strands under the insulation or the ground bolt is loose or the connection rusted, etc.
Here are some:
https://goo.gl/QE3hXh
Sunday, June 24th, 2018 AT 7:30 AM
