Too fast idle

Coolant temp is relative to engine performance. The temp at the moment never goes over half way

Ok will look at that next

The codes did clear when I disconnected battery but did come back. I suspect the bank1 o2 is still bad cause the fuse is again blown. This o2sensor is not easy to get to unless I pull the ignition control module and coils.

Will relay later. Also disconnecting IAC DOES NOT change idle issue

Have code 507 and replaced the idle control valve, did not work and the car stalls so I pulled the lead from the egr and set the idle manually and it works but still idles very high and if I plug the wire back in it stalls

Thank you, if I replace the egr and clean the egr line do you think that would help, I intend to replace the air idle valve when I figure out whats wrong and had it replaced already to no avail and was told that my ecu needed to be replaced which I knew was false and was confirmed by another mechanic while getting an oil change who told me after checking on some websites that I would be the first in the country to need this repair, I need to do the repair myself as money is very tight right now

But how long does it take the computer to respond to the idle setting's return to normal?

When the idle was replaced the car stalled and a mechanic set it manually and pulled the wire off the egr so I bought another new idle and and put it in and the car idled fast so I took it out and put the idle that was set manually back, I was wondering if the egr could cause a high idle and why does the car stall when the idle is plugged into the egr

I'm looking for a good diagram for the vacuum lines and don't see one. Besides the one on the hood of the car, is there another one?

More info.
When I check the idle with the car being cold the idle is ok, just rumbling, however when the car temp heats up, it goes high. I can't find a leak in the vacuum system unless the leak is at the vac line that runs from the solenoid to the canister, and the canister is in the back of the car. I did a ohms/resistance check of the IAC valve and it checks good unless the valve is just plain worn out.

Problem started this week, was in ohio in cold weather, when car first was started it went to a very high rpm, had to shut the engine down and restart to get it to idle normal. Later that day it stalled coasting to a red light, started right back up, drove it to NC with no problems, got here and it did the same thing when I started it the next morning, very high idle rpms, shut it down, restarted it and it was fine, drove it 20 miles and it stalled at a light, restarted, no problem.I also have noticed that on interstate hills, it either has a misfire problem or the trans is not shifting down from overdrive without several trys, mash the gas and it drops a gear and is fine, I drive mostly at high speeds and long trips, 70/90 and 500 mile trips, not much city driving. What is causing it to stall and after sitting all night it has this very high idle when first started, also the misfire or trans problem on hills at high speed when it seems like it is trying to shift down or the engine has a misfire, I cant tell which it is, thank you for any answer you may have

Thank you, how do I let the computer adjust and how long does it take, do I run the car or just turn it on, I was afraid something else was going on because I was not aware the computer needed time